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那是一个水雾氤氲的午后，我挤在汹涌的人潮中，目睹了“钱塘江国际冲浪挑战赛”盛况，一群冲浪运动员从仿佛煮沸的浪涛中飞纵而出，跳跃，腾挪，周旋，迂回，他们使出浑身解数，仿佛一只只振翅飞翔在惊涛间的苍鹰。
在萧山观潮城，我的心灵经历了一次冲浪。看着一个个国外运动员在钱塘江上穿梭往来，现实和历史在我眼前不断叠显，我甚至将他们想象成南宋来客，穿越了历史界限，轻易将我的视线引渡到了公元1183年农历八月十八日。因为在同样的地点，南宋朝廷曾经组织过一次中国历史上堪称规模最大的弄潮盛会。
1183年：南宋的一场
大型水上运动会
正午时分，大地一片寂静，天空没有一丝云彩，几只飞鸟在钱塘江江面上惊散，只留下了几声空响。此时，耳畔隐隐传来“嗡嗡”的蜂鸣声，一条白线将辽阔的天际拦腰截断，轰鸣声由远及近而来。
临近海塘，一道巨大的水墙腾空竖起，以大海的力量猛烈地撞击大地，仿佛一只巨大的扩音机不断地扩大声音的效果，大地被它震得有些颤动。一浪浪的波涛此起彼伏，后浪推搡着前浪，犹如千军万马驰骋。
海塘上响起一阵清脆的锣鸣，一排矫健的身影箭一样地蹿进惊涛骇浪，弄潮儿个个披头散发，挥舞着旗伞，在风口浪尖上矫健腾挪，展现出各种眼花缭乱的姿态，仿佛一只无形的手在背后操纵他们做出一个个精彩的动作。他们屹立在潮头，如同骑在一匹匹野马身上，动作呈现出奔腾的节奏，一面面旗帜“喇喇”迎风，引领着潮流乘风破浪疾进。海塘上爆发出山呼海啸的喝彩声、锣鼓声、呐喊声、踏歌声，此起彼伏，在钱塘江上汇聚成一曲交响乐。随着潮水向前推进，数十万人欢呼奔跑，三路大潮浩浩荡荡地汇聚成一个巨大的箭头，呼啦啦奔向临安，场面极其壮观热烈。
这是一次由官方举办的弄潮比赛，不仅规模庞大，而且规格最高，太上皇高宗和现任皇帝孝宗均出席了盛会，参赛选手也多达一百余人，涌现出了僧儿、留住等“弄潮”高手。
弄潮比赛：与“水兽”
搏斗的生死游戏
钱塘弄潮最早发端于祭祀潮神。古时候巫师每到端午时节都要在钱塘江上举行庄重的祭潮活动，以踏浪、戏水的方式迎接潮神。后来的弄潮者的一身行头有明显的宗教痕迹，如断发文身、持旗戏水等。由此，我们可以发现弄潮与祭潮之间的某种联系。
经过几百年的发展演变，弄潮运动在南宋进入了黄金时期。南宋的弄潮之所以规模庞大，是由于朝廷引导所致。在官方的操盘之下，弄潮有了成熟措施和详细规则，比赛还设置了丰厚的奖金，全部费用由官方承担。由于最高统治者的观战，使弄潮儿的地位得到根本性改变，涌现了哑八、谢棒杀、画牛儿、僧儿等一批家喻户晓的弄潮明星。
每年的农历八月十八日是潮神生日，也是弄潮儿大显身手的一天。比赛结束时，无疑是胜利者最荣耀的时刻。从庙子头到六和塔，沿着钱塘江畔一路逶迤数十里，扎满了眩目的彩棚。权贵商贾在临江地段搭设出绵延数里的看台，通衢大道上遍插彩旗，座座商铺连成了一字长蛇阵。南宋首都全城陷入了狂欢，数十万居民潮水般地涌向钱塘江口。
比赛结束后，获得名次的选手英雄般地凯旋，他们龙骧虎步地进入临安城，迎接他们的是鞭炮、锣鼓、欢呼、彩礼、酒肉，更有朝廷的赏赐。这是弄潮儿一生中最风光的一天，尽情地享受临安官民的追捧。
当时的弄潮表演与古罗马斗兽有着惊人的相似之处，他们将罗马竞技场搬到钱塘江上，弄潮儿是赤手空拳的斗士，惊涛骇浪就是“凶猛的水兽”。除少数高手外，不少人在搏斗中被潮水吞噬。在岸上那些煽情的目光的注视下，不少壮士被巨浪击中，接着倒在水中，残酷地走向死亡。看着这水上斗兽场的惊心动魄表演，皇帝和达官贵人们脸上显得十分平静。或许，这些人的生死搏斗，只不过是一场游戏而已。
英勇好斗：江南人性格的另一面
我曾经在海宁盐官镇有过观潮经历，浪潮遭遇海塘的拦阻后，以排山倒海之势压过来，一浪又一浪的波涛像雪山一样地倾倒下来，填平了一个谷底，又堆起了一座高山。水汽弥漫在海塘上，视线一片模糊，巨大的声响仿佛一个个惊雷炸响。在这样毛骨悚然的场景中，大多数人的念头就是转身逃离大堤。我实在无法想象，弄潮儿居然用肉体之躯冲向波涛，生死似乎早已置之度外。
在我看来，从小生长于钱塘江畔的吴越男儿，在潮水中经历了一次特殊的成人礼。不管是跃入波涛中的弄潮儿，还是伫立在岸上的观潮者，他们的人生从此因钱江潮受到了莫大的砥砺和启发，大潮的气势撩起了他们搏击风浪的勇气。
这些吴越弄潮儿血液里流淌着一股剑气，他们以血肉之躯对抗着汹涌的海潮，只要勇敢地付出了，死又何妨！经历了惊涛骇浪，人的一世也就波澜不惊了。他们内心从容淡定，自然会笑对一切。
东汉史学家班固写《汉书》时，游动的毛笔写下了这么一行铿锵的字迹：“吴越之君皆好勇，故其民至今好用剑，轻死易发。”一方面，吴越人是水性的，所以江南之地出尽风流名士；同时，这里也不乏慓悍侠士，他们血性勃发，常在刀锋浪尖上行走。弄潮就传递了这样的核心价值：与潮水搏斗于生死之间，再短暂的人生，也有瞬间的璀璨。弄潮儿这样的境界演绎在我们面前，豪迈之气丝毫不亚于燕赵游侠。弄潮儿手中无剑，心中有剑，以一脉剑气书写着果敢和刚烈，脚踏奔腾怒吼的潮头，向历史展现出钱塘人的体魄和心智。
西湖水的风花雪月占尽江南婉约，钱江潮的大浪淘沙豪取吴越霸气。我为此一直困惑于江南人的性格：他们有柔软如水的一面，同时还有刚硬如山的另一面。除了绵柔如水，江南人还有一副硬朗的身板，一种驾驭江河的果敢和勇气。或许，我们常常忽视这一点。而钱塘江里的弄潮儿，则是江南文化的骨架。只是，这段阳刚的历史太过短暂，弄潮人的身影最终被淹没于市井之中。
钱塘江口：人类发明了冲浪运动
弄潮活动，始兴于唐，极盛于宋，宋末走向没落，明代后期销声匿迹。清代以来的“抢潮头鱼”多少延续了弄潮的气脉，但老祖宗的竞技遗产最终失传了。一出轰轰烈烈的弄潮大戏就此在钱塘江口成为绝响。
1788年，英国人詹姆斯·科克船长在夏威夷第一次见识了夏威夷土著民的冲浪活动。但是，没有人知道冲浪运动的出现时间，也没有人知道它从何而来。地图上，我将目光从吴越海岸移动到夏威夷群岛，顿时浮想联翩，弄潮与冲浪在运动形式上高度相似，航海能力出色的吴越人有可能在某个时期到过夏威夷。浙江大学历史系的李志庭教授曾专门撰文指出，夏威夷居民以亚洲移民后裔和波利尼西亚人为主，其祖先与古越人有着千丝万缕的联系。他甚至大胆推断：“夏威夷的冲浪运动很可能就是随着越民族的迁徙而兴起的。” 跟随李教授做出的历史推演，眼前浮现出了一条若隐若现的航线，这条线从浙江锯齿形的海岸线向着浩瀚的太平洋交叉延伸。一批越人的先民，或许就是沿着这条海路，迁徙到了夏威夷群岛。吃苦耐劳、拼搏冒险的基因和种子，就这样从钱塘江口撒向了茫茫大洋。当他们回望遥远的亚洲大陆时，仿佛还能听到澎湃的涌潮声。后来，弄潮技艺在夏威夷的海浪上荡漾开来。
当冲浪成为风靡全球的体育运动之后，钱塘江口依旧潮起云涌，只是吴越的弄潮儿已经退出了历史舞台，只有一堆亢奋的文字留在了史籍中。那些字迹时时刻刻挑动神经，在我心中激起阵阵回声。同为水上运动，弄潮和冲浪有着异曲同工之妙。相同的，运动员利用风的推力与浪尖的浮力前进；不同的是，冲浪运动员站在帆板上滑行前进，弄潮儿则不借助任何工具。很显然，钱塘江水流变幻莫测，稍有闪失便会葬身江底，弄潮对技艺、勇气、耐力的挑战更大。
今天，绝大多数冲浪高手均避开盐官，选择了危险性、冲击性更小的萧山观潮城一带进行活动。他们有着翔实的水文资料、科学的后勤保障和现代的防护措施。若论挑战难度，冲浪与南宋弄潮相去甚远，观赏性也不可同日而语。
北宋文人潘阆有词赞曰：“弄潮儿向涛头立，手把红旗旗不湿。”我们很难想象，没有踏板的古代弄潮儿，是凭什么绝技征服巨浪的？这似乎是一个难以解释的谜团。千年之后，钱江涌潮一如既往，但那波涛翻涌的潮头再无叱咤风云的弄潮儿。
Surfing on Qiantang River
By Lu Xiaomin
My heart throbbed on September 15, 2011. It was the first time that I saw international athletes surfing on tidal bores on the Hangzhou section of Qiantang River. The spectacular tidal waves and surfers brought me back to the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) when local surfers competed at an annual surfing event sponsored by the royal house based in Hangzhou, the capital of the dynasty.
History has a detailed record of a grand aquatic sporting event held on the eighteenth day of the eighth month on the lunar calendar in 1183 in Hangzhou. It was attended by Emperor Xiaozong and his father, who abdicated in favor of his son.
Here is what history says about the event on the eighteenth day of the eighth month on the lunar calendar in 1183.
Around noontime, tidal bores came roaring and surging toward Hangzhou. The waves looked like a moving wall growing higher and higher, as the river suddenly turned much narrower in the Hangzhou section of Qiantang River. As gongs sounded fiercely, more than 100 surfers rushed into the river, riding waves and brandishing red flags. They surfed as if they were riding wild horses. As they showed their stunts, spectators on the shores cheered and percussionists beat their drums and gongs. As the surfers rode waves coming upstream, spectators also moved running and cheering, wanting to catch every breathtaking move of these surfing heroes.
Surfing on Qiantang River goes back to very ancient times. It started as part of a religious ceremony in honor of the god of waves. Surfers had tattoos on their bodies and had their hair cut short; they held a flag in their hands while surfing. Experts say that this special practice was closely associated with sacrificial rite. After hundreds of years, surfers on Qiantang River developed a full bag of skills. When the royal house of the Southern Song Dynasty moved to Hangzhou and found the surfers, it decided it liked the performance on the river. The dynasty developed a full range of rules, offered big prizes, and footed the bills of the annual event. As the royal house enjoyed watching the annual surfing, good surfers emerged. Every eighteenth day of the eighth month was their biggest day: they came to perform. Spectators set up tents and stands along the river for more than five kilometers, stretching from Haining all the way to the Six-Harmony Pagoda in Hangzhou. The surfing day was a carnival. After the competition, winners would parade into the city, cheered by crowds. They went to the victory ceremony to accept rewards from the royal house. They went to celebration banquets.
The carnival day resembled gladiators’ contests in ancient Rome. Surfers in Hangzhou faced waves, which were like ferocious beasts. Most surfers could manage tidal waves, but some were overwhelmed by huge waves. For spectators, death was part of the thrilling game.
In ancient China, scholars noticed the unusual prowess of the local people of Wu and Yue kingdoms. They braved waves. Ban Gu (32-92AD), a historian who authored “A History of Western Han”, observed that the people in Wu and Yue kingdoms were brave and that it was why they preferred using swords.
History does not say exactly how these wave riders dominated waves. One thing is sure: they did not use a surfing board. They went to the waves with only a flag so that they could be easily seen from the distant shore. Were they surfing or were they just swimming? The mystery remains and the way they rode fierce waves seems to have lost forever to history. These ancient wave riders are a legend.
在萧山观潮城，我的心灵经历了一次冲浪。看着一个个国外运动员在钱塘江上穿梭往来，现实和历史在我眼前不断叠显，我甚至将他们想象成南宋来客，穿越了历史界限，轻易将我的视线引渡到了公元1183年农历八月十八日。因为在同样的地点，南宋朝廷曾经组织过一次中国历史上堪称规模最大的弄潮盛会。
1183年：南宋的一场
大型水上运动会
正午时分，大地一片寂静，天空没有一丝云彩，几只飞鸟在钱塘江江面上惊散，只留下了几声空响。此时，耳畔隐隐传来“嗡嗡”的蜂鸣声，一条白线将辽阔的天际拦腰截断，轰鸣声由远及近而来。
临近海塘，一道巨大的水墙腾空竖起，以大海的力量猛烈地撞击大地，仿佛一只巨大的扩音机不断地扩大声音的效果，大地被它震得有些颤动。一浪浪的波涛此起彼伏，后浪推搡着前浪，犹如千军万马驰骋。
海塘上响起一阵清脆的锣鸣，一排矫健的身影箭一样地蹿进惊涛骇浪，弄潮儿个个披头散发，挥舞着旗伞，在风口浪尖上矫健腾挪，展现出各种眼花缭乱的姿态，仿佛一只无形的手在背后操纵他们做出一个个精彩的动作。他们屹立在潮头，如同骑在一匹匹野马身上，动作呈现出奔腾的节奏，一面面旗帜“喇喇”迎风，引领着潮流乘风破浪疾进。海塘上爆发出山呼海啸的喝彩声、锣鼓声、呐喊声、踏歌声，此起彼伏，在钱塘江上汇聚成一曲交响乐。随着潮水向前推进，数十万人欢呼奔跑，三路大潮浩浩荡荡地汇聚成一个巨大的箭头，呼啦啦奔向临安，场面极其壮观热烈。
这是一次由官方举办的弄潮比赛，不仅规模庞大，而且规格最高，太上皇高宗和现任皇帝孝宗均出席了盛会，参赛选手也多达一百余人，涌现出了僧儿、留住等“弄潮”高手。
弄潮比赛：与“水兽”
搏斗的生死游戏
钱塘弄潮最早发端于祭祀潮神。古时候巫师每到端午时节都要在钱塘江上举行庄重的祭潮活动，以踏浪、戏水的方式迎接潮神。后来的弄潮者的一身行头有明显的宗教痕迹，如断发文身、持旗戏水等。由此，我们可以发现弄潮与祭潮之间的某种联系。
经过几百年的发展演变，弄潮运动在南宋进入了黄金时期。南宋的弄潮之所以规模庞大，是由于朝廷引导所致。在官方的操盘之下，弄潮有了成熟措施和详细规则，比赛还设置了丰厚的奖金，全部费用由官方承担。由于最高统治者的观战，使弄潮儿的地位得到根本性改变，涌现了哑八、谢棒杀、画牛儿、僧儿等一批家喻户晓的弄潮明星。
每年的农历八月十八日是潮神生日，也是弄潮儿大显身手的一天。比赛结束时，无疑是胜利者最荣耀的时刻。从庙子头到六和塔，沿着钱塘江畔一路逶迤数十里，扎满了眩目的彩棚。权贵商贾在临江地段搭设出绵延数里的看台，通衢大道上遍插彩旗，座座商铺连成了一字长蛇阵。南宋首都全城陷入了狂欢，数十万居民潮水般地涌向钱塘江口。
比赛结束后，获得名次的选手英雄般地凯旋，他们龙骧虎步地进入临安城，迎接他们的是鞭炮、锣鼓、欢呼、彩礼、酒肉，更有朝廷的赏赐。这是弄潮儿一生中最风光的一天，尽情地享受临安官民的追捧。
当时的弄潮表演与古罗马斗兽有着惊人的相似之处，他们将罗马竞技场搬到钱塘江上，弄潮儿是赤手空拳的斗士，惊涛骇浪就是“凶猛的水兽”。除少数高手外，不少人在搏斗中被潮水吞噬。在岸上那些煽情的目光的注视下，不少壮士被巨浪击中，接着倒在水中，残酷地走向死亡。看着这水上斗兽场的惊心动魄表演，皇帝和达官贵人们脸上显得十分平静。或许，这些人的生死搏斗，只不过是一场游戏而已。
英勇好斗：江南人性格的另一面
我曾经在海宁盐官镇有过观潮经历，浪潮遭遇海塘的拦阻后，以排山倒海之势压过来，一浪又一浪的波涛像雪山一样地倾倒下来，填平了一个谷底，又堆起了一座高山。水汽弥漫在海塘上，视线一片模糊，巨大的声响仿佛一个个惊雷炸响。在这样毛骨悚然的场景中，大多数人的念头就是转身逃离大堤。我实在无法想象，弄潮儿居然用肉体之躯冲向波涛，生死似乎早已置之度外。
在我看来，从小生长于钱塘江畔的吴越男儿，在潮水中经历了一次特殊的成人礼。不管是跃入波涛中的弄潮儿，还是伫立在岸上的观潮者，他们的人生从此因钱江潮受到了莫大的砥砺和启发，大潮的气势撩起了他们搏击风浪的勇气。
这些吴越弄潮儿血液里流淌着一股剑气，他们以血肉之躯对抗着汹涌的海潮，只要勇敢地付出了，死又何妨！经历了惊涛骇浪，人的一世也就波澜不惊了。他们内心从容淡定，自然会笑对一切。
东汉史学家班固写《汉书》时，游动的毛笔写下了这么一行铿锵的字迹：“吴越之君皆好勇，故其民至今好用剑，轻死易发。”一方面，吴越人是水性的，所以江南之地出尽风流名士；同时，这里也不乏慓悍侠士，他们血性勃发，常在刀锋浪尖上行走。弄潮就传递了这样的核心价值：与潮水搏斗于生死之间，再短暂的人生，也有瞬间的璀璨。弄潮儿这样的境界演绎在我们面前，豪迈之气丝毫不亚于燕赵游侠。弄潮儿手中无剑，心中有剑，以一脉剑气书写着果敢和刚烈，脚踏奔腾怒吼的潮头，向历史展现出钱塘人的体魄和心智。
西湖水的风花雪月占尽江南婉约，钱江潮的大浪淘沙豪取吴越霸气。我为此一直困惑于江南人的性格：他们有柔软如水的一面，同时还有刚硬如山的另一面。除了绵柔如水，江南人还有一副硬朗的身板，一种驾驭江河的果敢和勇气。或许，我们常常忽视这一点。而钱塘江里的弄潮儿，则是江南文化的骨架。只是，这段阳刚的历史太过短暂，弄潮人的身影最终被淹没于市井之中。
钱塘江口：人类发明了冲浪运动
弄潮活动，始兴于唐，极盛于宋，宋末走向没落，明代后期销声匿迹。清代以来的“抢潮头鱼”多少延续了弄潮的气脉，但老祖宗的竞技遗产最终失传了。一出轰轰烈烈的弄潮大戏就此在钱塘江口成为绝响。
1788年，英国人詹姆斯·科克船长在夏威夷第一次见识了夏威夷土著民的冲浪活动。但是，没有人知道冲浪运动的出现时间，也没有人知道它从何而来。地图上，我将目光从吴越海岸移动到夏威夷群岛，顿时浮想联翩，弄潮与冲浪在运动形式上高度相似，航海能力出色的吴越人有可能在某个时期到过夏威夷。浙江大学历史系的李志庭教授曾专门撰文指出，夏威夷居民以亚洲移民后裔和波利尼西亚人为主，其祖先与古越人有着千丝万缕的联系。他甚至大胆推断：“夏威夷的冲浪运动很可能就是随着越民族的迁徙而兴起的。” 跟随李教授做出的历史推演，眼前浮现出了一条若隐若现的航线，这条线从浙江锯齿形的海岸线向着浩瀚的太平洋交叉延伸。一批越人的先民，或许就是沿着这条海路，迁徙到了夏威夷群岛。吃苦耐劳、拼搏冒险的基因和种子，就这样从钱塘江口撒向了茫茫大洋。当他们回望遥远的亚洲大陆时，仿佛还能听到澎湃的涌潮声。后来，弄潮技艺在夏威夷的海浪上荡漾开来。
当冲浪成为风靡全球的体育运动之后，钱塘江口依旧潮起云涌，只是吴越的弄潮儿已经退出了历史舞台，只有一堆亢奋的文字留在了史籍中。那些字迹时时刻刻挑动神经，在我心中激起阵阵回声。同为水上运动，弄潮和冲浪有着异曲同工之妙。相同的，运动员利用风的推力与浪尖的浮力前进；不同的是，冲浪运动员站在帆板上滑行前进，弄潮儿则不借助任何工具。很显然，钱塘江水流变幻莫测，稍有闪失便会葬身江底，弄潮对技艺、勇气、耐力的挑战更大。
今天，绝大多数冲浪高手均避开盐官，选择了危险性、冲击性更小的萧山观潮城一带进行活动。他们有着翔实的水文资料、科学的后勤保障和现代的防护措施。若论挑战难度，冲浪与南宋弄潮相去甚远，观赏性也不可同日而语。
北宋文人潘阆有词赞曰：“弄潮儿向涛头立，手把红旗旗不湿。”我们很难想象，没有踏板的古代弄潮儿，是凭什么绝技征服巨浪的？这似乎是一个难以解释的谜团。千年之后，钱江涌潮一如既往，但那波涛翻涌的潮头再无叱咤风云的弄潮儿。
Surfing on Qiantang River
By Lu Xiaomin
My heart throbbed on September 15, 2011. It was the first time that I saw international athletes surfing on tidal bores on the Hangzhou section of Qiantang River. The spectacular tidal waves and surfers brought me back to the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) when local surfers competed at an annual surfing event sponsored by the royal house based in Hangzhou, the capital of the dynasty.
History has a detailed record of a grand aquatic sporting event held on the eighteenth day of the eighth month on the lunar calendar in 1183 in Hangzhou. It was attended by Emperor Xiaozong and his father, who abdicated in favor of his son.
Here is what history says about the event on the eighteenth day of the eighth month on the lunar calendar in 1183.
Around noontime, tidal bores came roaring and surging toward Hangzhou. The waves looked like a moving wall growing higher and higher, as the river suddenly turned much narrower in the Hangzhou section of Qiantang River. As gongs sounded fiercely, more than 100 surfers rushed into the river, riding waves and brandishing red flags. They surfed as if they were riding wild horses. As they showed their stunts, spectators on the shores cheered and percussionists beat their drums and gongs. As the surfers rode waves coming upstream, spectators also moved running and cheering, wanting to catch every breathtaking move of these surfing heroes.
Surfing on Qiantang River goes back to very ancient times. It started as part of a religious ceremony in honor of the god of waves. Surfers had tattoos on their bodies and had their hair cut short; they held a flag in their hands while surfing. Experts say that this special practice was closely associated with sacrificial rite. After hundreds of years, surfers on Qiantang River developed a full bag of skills. When the royal house of the Southern Song Dynasty moved to Hangzhou and found the surfers, it decided it liked the performance on the river. The dynasty developed a full range of rules, offered big prizes, and footed the bills of the annual event. As the royal house enjoyed watching the annual surfing, good surfers emerged. Every eighteenth day of the eighth month was their biggest day: they came to perform. Spectators set up tents and stands along the river for more than five kilometers, stretching from Haining all the way to the Six-Harmony Pagoda in Hangzhou. The surfing day was a carnival. After the competition, winners would parade into the city, cheered by crowds. They went to the victory ceremony to accept rewards from the royal house. They went to celebration banquets.
The carnival day resembled gladiators’ contests in ancient Rome. Surfers in Hangzhou faced waves, which were like ferocious beasts. Most surfers could manage tidal waves, but some were overwhelmed by huge waves. For spectators, death was part of the thrilling game.
In ancient China, scholars noticed the unusual prowess of the local people of Wu and Yue kingdoms. They braved waves. Ban Gu (32-92AD), a historian who authored “A History of Western Han”, observed that the people in Wu and Yue kingdoms were brave and that it was why they preferred using swords.
History does not say exactly how these wave riders dominated waves. One thing is sure: they did not use a surfing board. They went to the waves with only a flag so that they could be easily seen from the distant shore. Were they surfing or were they just swimming? The mystery remains and the way they rode fierce waves seems to have lost forever to history. These ancient wave riders are a legend.