贾平凹在《陕西小吃小识录》中说到“圪坨”,这是陕北语,关中称麻食或猴耳朵,以荞面为料,掐指蛋大面团,煮出,干盛半碗,浇羊肉汤。吃“圪坨”要与羊肉汤为伴,所以陕西民歌中有“荞面圪坨羊腥汤,死死活活紧跟上”之句。 从“圪坨”这一名称看,它与江南地区所吃的“面疙瘩”有相似处,因“圪坨”者,小丘也。又从关中称“猴耳朵”看,它的外观似猴耳。我知道西安有著名小吃猴耳朵面,其制法为:取面剂拍扁,扯成宽扁条,缠在左手腕上,右手三指捏住左手腕的面头,边捏边揪,甩入开水锅里,即为带有窝形的小面片,状如耳朵。 由猴耳朵面使我想起山西与杭州均有“猫耳朵”,它们的形状相似,可能是同种不同名的面食。山西“猫耳面”(“猫耳面”即“猫耳朵”)的制法为:面片切成小面块,用两手的拇指头按住面块,逐个向前推成薄片,卷成猫耳朵形状,下开水锅里。杭州“猫耳朵”的制法是:面团切成面丁,用拇指揪搓成一只只形似猫耳朵的生坯,入沸水锅煮至浮起。 JiaPingQu said in the “small snacks in Shaanxi snacks”, “this lump,” this is the shaanxi language, GuanZhong said Ma food or monkey ears to buckwheat noodles for the buckwheat noodles noodles, cook out, dry Shing bowl , Watering mutton soup. Eat “圪 lump” to be with the mutton soup companion, so Shaanxi folk songs in the “buckwheat noodles Tuo Yang Xingyou Tang, living tightly follow the” sentence. From the name of “Tuo Tuo”, it has similarities with the “gnocchi” eaten in the southern part of the Yangtze River because of “Tuo Tuo” and the hills. Again from the Guanzhong called “monkey ears” look, it looks like a monkey ears. I know there is a famous snack monkey ears in Xi’an, its system of law is: take face powder pat flat, pull into a wide flat bar, wrapped around the left wrist, right hand pinch the left wrist face, while pinching the edge pull, rejection Into the boiling water pot, that is, with a nest-shaped facets, like the ear. From the ear of monkey reminds me of Shanxi and Hangzhou have “cat ears”, their shape is similar, may be the same kind of different names of pasta. Shanxi “cat ears” (“cat ears” that is, “cat ears”) system of law is: cut into small pieces of noodles, with both hands holding the block of thumb, push forward one by one into a sheet, rolled into Cat ears shape, pot under the water. Hangzhou “cat ears” system of law is: Dough cut into dough, with a thumb twist into a cat-shaped ears only, into the boiling water to boil.