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一、前 言 早在1802年,英国海军蒲福将军应用20年海面状况观测资料,制成了海面风力海况表,自那以后,就有了海浪预报,这种方法就是目前仍被气象部门所应用的风推浪的预报方法。在这以后很长的一段时间里,由于波浪理论研究缓慢,海浪预报方法没有多大进展,直至1942年,由于军事上的需要,由Sverdroup和Munk提出了著名的有效波预报方法后,海浪预报才开始进入实用阶段,随后美国的Pierson、Neumann和James于1955年提出了著名的PNJ波谱预报方法。同时,国内外海洋学者还提出了许多经验统计预报方法,较有代表性的有Wilson方法和苏联海洋学家Peal提出的预报方法,我国的文圣常教授提出的谱预报方法为我国的海浪预报方法奠定了基础。
I. INTRODUCTION As early as 1802, General Beaufort of the British Navy made use of 20-year observations of the state of the sea surface to make a table of sea surface wind and sea conditions. Since then, there has been a forecast of the waves. This method is still being applied by the meteorological department The wind wave forecasting method. For a long time since then, due to the slow study of wave theory, the wave prediction method made little progress. Until 1942, due to military needs, Sverdroup and Munk proposed the famous effective wave prediction method Started to enter the practical stage, then the United States Pierson, Neumann and James in 1955 put forward the famous PNJ spectral prediction method. At the same time, many oceanographers at home and abroad also put forward many empirical statistical prediction methods, such as the Wilson method and the prediction method proposed by the Soviet oceanographer Peal. The prediction method proposed by Professor Wen Shengchang in our country is the prediction of the ocean waves in China Method laid the foundation.