在远离城市的河谷深处,清澈的河水倒映着白云和蓝天,树木在微波的晃动下成为幻象。涉禽悄无声息地往返沙丘之间,只有马达突突的声音惊扰着无人的四方,白色的浪花在船尾翻起并很快消失不见。这不是我第一次到达老挝了——我的意思是,我一天前曾从柬埔寨乘船逆流而上,到达边境。湄公河宽阔且弯曲回折,我的手机信号一会儿显示着柬埔寨电话公司,一会又收到了老挝电话公司的欢迎短信。我乘船出发的那座柬埔寨城镇叫做上丁(Stung Treng),它是距离观看江豚的地方最近的边境落脚城镇。最近的几十年来,上丁除了一条尘土飞扬着,如同街边烧烤扬起的烟雾一样的城镇主干道,就没什么值 Deep in the valley away from the city, the clear waters reflect white clouds and blue skies, and the trees become an illusion under the influence of microwaves. Wading birds quietly back and forth between the sand dunes, only the sound of motor bursts disturbing the unmanned quartet, the white waves rolled up in the stern and soon disappeared. This is not the first time that I have arrived in Laos - I mean, I took a boat upstream from Cambodia a day earlier to reach the border. Mekong wide and curved back, my cell phone signal while displaying the Cambodian phone company, and later received a Laos phone company welcome SMS. The Cambodian town where I set out by boat is called Stung Treng, the nearest border crossing town where the finless porpoises are watched. In recent decades, Shangding has no value except for a dusty town like the smog-like town trunk raised by the streets