论文部分内容阅读
农历八月,整个杭州便弥漫着馥郁的桂香,走在大街小巷、西湖景区,总是“未见花色,先闻花香”。桂花是杭州的市花。
桂子月中落
西山灵隐、天竺一带是桂花与杭州最初产生联系的地方。
旧籍称,东晋咸和初年,有印度僧云游钱塘山中故地,惊叹此地水石清绝,于是筹建灵隐寺。这不仅开启了风景的建设,而且对思想文化的影响也很深远。
经南朝及隋,唐代的灵隐、天竺已成佛教奥区。前人引灵隐旧志神话,有一年中秋夜,皓月当空,灵隐寺殿宇瓦檐上响起细微雨声。寺僧开门一看,见空庭满阶有紫黑色的小颗粒,便拾了一捧。第二天,寺僧告知师父,师父一看便道:“这可是月宫里的桂子。”于是,师徒把小颗粒种在寺前庙后的山坡上,之后,桂树繁衍生长在灵隐、天竺,尤以月桂峰为最。
初唐诗人宋之问写过一首五言排律《灵隐寺》,据今人所见,是西湖艺文中最早的诗作,也是代表作之一,其中道:“鹫岭郁岧峣,龙宫锁寂寥。楼观沧海日,门对浙江潮。桂子月中落,天香云外飘……”“楼观”一联有意境,“桂子”一联有意象,颇开盛唐气象;尤其是,月中桂子的神话本起东汉《淮南子》,诗人拈来,写得空灵、缥缈、神秘、幽远。
宋之问之后,中唐诗人白居易制《江南忆》流传千古:“江南忆,最忆是杭州。山寺月中寻桂子,郡亭枕上看潮头。何日更重游?”北宋词人柳永填《望海潮》传播域外:“有三秋桂子、十里荷花……”此外,盛唐诗人李白、晚唐诗人皮日休、北宋诗人苏轼、南宋诗人王洧等,也都吟咏过。
满觉陇独盛
月中桂子的神话表达想象,属于思考生命与探索自然。宋之问《灵隐寺》在思想哲学上有东晋遗风,可见当年杭州山水的特征。
故国南宋带给西湖审美上本质的转变——越来越浓烈的平民化,而缺乏帝王的大象之形。在这一点,桂花大约是为缩影。
南宋时,《咸淳临安志》记载:“桂,满觉陇独盛。”满觉陇在南山的一道峰谷之间,林木也爽朗,但游人不多,明清时期成为赏桂胜地,延续至今。
明中期文学家高濂笔记《四时幽赏录》记载:“桂花最盛处唯南山,龙井为多,而地名满家弄者,其林若墉若栉。一村以市花为业,各省取给于此。秋时策蹇入山看花,从数里外便触清馥。入径珠英琼树,香满空山,快赏幽深,恍入灵鹫金粟世界。”明末文人张京元小品《石屋小记》记载:“出石屋,西,上下山坂夹道皆丛桂,秋时著花,香闻数十里,堪称金粟世界。”清中期诗人张云璈七言绝句《品桂》云:“西湖八月足清秋,何处香通鼻观幽?满觉陇旁金粟遍,天风吹堕万山秋。”晚清文人丁立诚七言古诗《满觉陇桂花》云:“桂花蒸过花信动,桂花开遍满觉陇。卖花人试卖花声,一路桂花香进城。城中莫怅花较晚,山人富有千金产。桂花栗子正尝新,南山当户可结邻。”
前人的这些记叙、描述,都只能基于直观的表达,满觉陇风景早已退出背景之外,缺少了想象与联想的空间,赏桂便也作了民俗生活现象,流于普遍的世俗化。
迟桂花
其实,满觉陇是西湖的另类风景——山水未必符合景观要求,只是田园更能寄寓平和闲逸的心境。
满觉陇岭道迤逦,散落着山居农家。过去,一村以种植桂花为副业:桂花刚盛的几日,农人在树下铺好草席、竹匾之类,打落桂花,收罗起来拣去梗杈,用薄盐、考究的用话梅渍去涩味,再用糖腌制成桂花糖。桂花糖通常与江南的美食结缘,掺和入饮品的有酒、茶、藕粉、桃露,掺和入点心的有糕团、汤圆、酥糖、糯米藕,据说还有掺和入菜肴的。
农家的活的生态构成乡野的日常风俗,而内里的风情,往往以寡淡的白描式的具体生活来展现,这使人想起现代作家郁达夫的小说《迟桂花》。
满觉陇附近的山林,也是寻芳赏桂的好去处,如翁家山。《迟桂花》是郁达夫晚期的重要作品,即以这一带为背景,以暮秋迟开的桂花为象征意义创作的。在郁达夫极富特色的笔触下,桂花的馨香撩人于青葱的山、如云的树、茫茫的湖雾、唧唧的虫唱、缓慢的晚钟之间,景色迷人,气氛静谧;这样一个宁静、纯洁的处所,能使受伤的灵魂得到安息,能使邪恶的念头得到涤荡净化,能使浮躁的心境逐渐平静,从而怡然自得地生活。
《迟桂花》带点萧瑟,带点伤感,但这就是满觉陇,就是近现代西湖:西湖在特定的时代中凋零萎靡,湖周尽是桑麻农耕的痕迹,田园代替了陶冶心性的风景。
市花折桂
当代西湖的范围和内容颇多整治、拓展,为此,1985年,杭州有关方面发起评选新西湖十景。风景题名是我国独特的传统审美方式,源于绘画艺术和骈文,南宋时形成的西湖十景名传天下,新西湖十景中有满陇桂雨一景。
据说,满觉陇沿途种植了7000多株桂花。桂花飘香时节,山道两旁的村户忙不迭地在门前屋后摆起茶座招徕生意:游人尝一碗桂花莲子羹歇歇脚;茶客品一杯桂花茶谈谈天;更多的市民则是点几道桂花飘香鸡、桂花鱼之类的菜肴,喝酒打牌一天,藉以排遣现实生活中的种种劳顿。这种游赏,实是新风俗画长卷。如今西湖四乡遍地开花的农家乐,当以此为嚆矢。
赏花观景,在一般概念中,是观赏的艺术,而桂花终究因“香”而“芳名天下闻”,也许以嗅觉甚至味觉为元素,入列景观、具有美感,是突破性的。巧妙的是,满陇桂雨的“雨”显然受启发于旧十景中曲院风荷的“风”,桂花随风洒落,沐“雨”披香,别有一番意趣,同时或多或少延续着千余年月中桂子的文思。
满陇桂雨被评入新西湖十景当非偶然,早一年的1984,杭州选市花,集绿化、美化、香化于一体,观赏与实用兼备的桂花折桂。从此,杭州的广场公园、单位学校、街道里巷,都布置下了这道风景。
桂花之于杭州,有不事张扬而又可以回味的气质,无需伟岸的形胜,无需夺目的艳丽,只用一种绝人的清香来氤氲。
(除署名外,本文照片由小五拍摄)
Osmanthus Glorifies the City By Pang Ru
Sweet osmanthus is the city flower of Hangzhou, the capital of Zhejiang, an eastern China’s coastal province. In the eighth month on the lunar calendar, the fragrance of the sweet osmanthus permeates the West Lake and streets and lanes across the urban part of the city.
The osmanthus tree is closely associated with the mountains west of the West Lake where Buddhist temples have clustered for about 1,500 years. Ancient history says that a Buddhist monk from India visited the mountains in the Xianhe years (326-334) of the Eastern Jin (317-420) and loved what he saw. Lingyin Temple was built there. This temple not only started the cultural landscape of Hangzhou but also exerted a strong influence on Chinese ideology.
The mountains west of the West Lake became a key Buddhism sanctuary in the Tang (618-907) and pilgrims visited the temples there regularly. A memoir of ancient legends and myths about the Lingyin Temple and other temples in the mountains has a special tale about the osmanthus trees. In one moonlit mid-autumn night, monks heard rain pelting the roofs of the temple. They investigated and saw the courtyard covered with blackish seeds. The black seeds were presented to the abbot the next morning. The abbot glanced at the seeds and said they were osmanthus seeds from the moon. The seeds were planted around the temple. Over centuries, they became woods. The fact that one of the mountains is known as Moon Osmanthus Peak testifies to the prosperity of osmanthus trees in the area.
For more than ten centuries, Hangzhou has inspired poets and artists. There are so many poems about the lake and the city that you would have difficulty reading them all in a year. Some best known ones are about osmanthus flowers in Hangzhou. And they are certainly among the greatest poems ever written in China.
Critics say that poems written in the Tang and early Song reflect the old charms of the Eastern Jin. However, after the city housed the royal house of the Southern Song (1127-1279), the aesthetics of the West Lake was secularized. And osmanthus played a part in the process of secularization.
Manjuelong, a valley in the mountains west of the West Lake, is the best place to enjoy the osmanthus blooming in Hangzhou since the Ming (1368-1644). Its fame has never waned. In the Southern Song, the osmanthus blooming in autumn began to attract visitors. There are numerous essays written in the past dynasties about the blooming there and about the village in the valley and about the people in the city who came out of the city and hanged out there breathing the aroma and forgetting themselves. The valley is an attraction different from all the other scenic attractions of the West Lake. The mountains and streams there are not exactly up to the beauty of the rest of the West Lake, but they combine to suggest a lifestyle about a leisurely and contented life in every sense of the word peace.
For centuries, the osmanthus flower has been a business. The villagers dehydrate the flowers and pickle dried flowers in sugar. The ingredient is widely used for preparing cakes, snacks and restaurant dishes in the local cuisine.
Some say there are about 7,000 osmanthus trees in the valley. In the eighth month on the lunar calendar, tables are set outdoors under osmanthus trees and people come and sit down for a cup of tea. They chat and play pokes. Many stay for dinner. This cottage restaurant mode has evolved into a huge market around the rural West Lake and across the province.
In 1984, the osmanthus flower was voted as the city flower. In 1985, Manjuelong was chosen as one of the new top ten scenic highlights of the West Lake as opposed to the ancient ten top views of the lake. The osmanthus woods there are the very reason the valley was favored. It wouldn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out how many voters had enjoyed the osmanthus aroma for years before the valley came up in the voting.
桂子月中落
西山灵隐、天竺一带是桂花与杭州最初产生联系的地方。
旧籍称,东晋咸和初年,有印度僧云游钱塘山中故地,惊叹此地水石清绝,于是筹建灵隐寺。这不仅开启了风景的建设,而且对思想文化的影响也很深远。
经南朝及隋,唐代的灵隐、天竺已成佛教奥区。前人引灵隐旧志神话,有一年中秋夜,皓月当空,灵隐寺殿宇瓦檐上响起细微雨声。寺僧开门一看,见空庭满阶有紫黑色的小颗粒,便拾了一捧。第二天,寺僧告知师父,师父一看便道:“这可是月宫里的桂子。”于是,师徒把小颗粒种在寺前庙后的山坡上,之后,桂树繁衍生长在灵隐、天竺,尤以月桂峰为最。
初唐诗人宋之问写过一首五言排律《灵隐寺》,据今人所见,是西湖艺文中最早的诗作,也是代表作之一,其中道:“鹫岭郁岧峣,龙宫锁寂寥。楼观沧海日,门对浙江潮。桂子月中落,天香云外飘……”“楼观”一联有意境,“桂子”一联有意象,颇开盛唐气象;尤其是,月中桂子的神话本起东汉《淮南子》,诗人拈来,写得空灵、缥缈、神秘、幽远。
宋之问之后,中唐诗人白居易制《江南忆》流传千古:“江南忆,最忆是杭州。山寺月中寻桂子,郡亭枕上看潮头。何日更重游?”北宋词人柳永填《望海潮》传播域外:“有三秋桂子、十里荷花……”此外,盛唐诗人李白、晚唐诗人皮日休、北宋诗人苏轼、南宋诗人王洧等,也都吟咏过。
满觉陇独盛
月中桂子的神话表达想象,属于思考生命与探索自然。宋之问《灵隐寺》在思想哲学上有东晋遗风,可见当年杭州山水的特征。
故国南宋带给西湖审美上本质的转变——越来越浓烈的平民化,而缺乏帝王的大象之形。在这一点,桂花大约是为缩影。
南宋时,《咸淳临安志》记载:“桂,满觉陇独盛。”满觉陇在南山的一道峰谷之间,林木也爽朗,但游人不多,明清时期成为赏桂胜地,延续至今。
明中期文学家高濂笔记《四时幽赏录》记载:“桂花最盛处唯南山,龙井为多,而地名满家弄者,其林若墉若栉。一村以市花为业,各省取给于此。秋时策蹇入山看花,从数里外便触清馥。入径珠英琼树,香满空山,快赏幽深,恍入灵鹫金粟世界。”明末文人张京元小品《石屋小记》记载:“出石屋,西,上下山坂夹道皆丛桂,秋时著花,香闻数十里,堪称金粟世界。”清中期诗人张云璈七言绝句《品桂》云:“西湖八月足清秋,何处香通鼻观幽?满觉陇旁金粟遍,天风吹堕万山秋。”晚清文人丁立诚七言古诗《满觉陇桂花》云:“桂花蒸过花信动,桂花开遍满觉陇。卖花人试卖花声,一路桂花香进城。城中莫怅花较晚,山人富有千金产。桂花栗子正尝新,南山当户可结邻。”
前人的这些记叙、描述,都只能基于直观的表达,满觉陇风景早已退出背景之外,缺少了想象与联想的空间,赏桂便也作了民俗生活现象,流于普遍的世俗化。
迟桂花
其实,满觉陇是西湖的另类风景——山水未必符合景观要求,只是田园更能寄寓平和闲逸的心境。
满觉陇岭道迤逦,散落着山居农家。过去,一村以种植桂花为副业:桂花刚盛的几日,农人在树下铺好草席、竹匾之类,打落桂花,收罗起来拣去梗杈,用薄盐、考究的用话梅渍去涩味,再用糖腌制成桂花糖。桂花糖通常与江南的美食结缘,掺和入饮品的有酒、茶、藕粉、桃露,掺和入点心的有糕团、汤圆、酥糖、糯米藕,据说还有掺和入菜肴的。
农家的活的生态构成乡野的日常风俗,而内里的风情,往往以寡淡的白描式的具体生活来展现,这使人想起现代作家郁达夫的小说《迟桂花》。
满觉陇附近的山林,也是寻芳赏桂的好去处,如翁家山。《迟桂花》是郁达夫晚期的重要作品,即以这一带为背景,以暮秋迟开的桂花为象征意义创作的。在郁达夫极富特色的笔触下,桂花的馨香撩人于青葱的山、如云的树、茫茫的湖雾、唧唧的虫唱、缓慢的晚钟之间,景色迷人,气氛静谧;这样一个宁静、纯洁的处所,能使受伤的灵魂得到安息,能使邪恶的念头得到涤荡净化,能使浮躁的心境逐渐平静,从而怡然自得地生活。
《迟桂花》带点萧瑟,带点伤感,但这就是满觉陇,就是近现代西湖:西湖在特定的时代中凋零萎靡,湖周尽是桑麻农耕的痕迹,田园代替了陶冶心性的风景。
市花折桂
当代西湖的范围和内容颇多整治、拓展,为此,1985年,杭州有关方面发起评选新西湖十景。风景题名是我国独特的传统审美方式,源于绘画艺术和骈文,南宋时形成的西湖十景名传天下,新西湖十景中有满陇桂雨一景。
据说,满觉陇沿途种植了7000多株桂花。桂花飘香时节,山道两旁的村户忙不迭地在门前屋后摆起茶座招徕生意:游人尝一碗桂花莲子羹歇歇脚;茶客品一杯桂花茶谈谈天;更多的市民则是点几道桂花飘香鸡、桂花鱼之类的菜肴,喝酒打牌一天,藉以排遣现实生活中的种种劳顿。这种游赏,实是新风俗画长卷。如今西湖四乡遍地开花的农家乐,当以此为嚆矢。
赏花观景,在一般概念中,是观赏的艺术,而桂花终究因“香”而“芳名天下闻”,也许以嗅觉甚至味觉为元素,入列景观、具有美感,是突破性的。巧妙的是,满陇桂雨的“雨”显然受启发于旧十景中曲院风荷的“风”,桂花随风洒落,沐“雨”披香,别有一番意趣,同时或多或少延续着千余年月中桂子的文思。
满陇桂雨被评入新西湖十景当非偶然,早一年的1984,杭州选市花,集绿化、美化、香化于一体,观赏与实用兼备的桂花折桂。从此,杭州的广场公园、单位学校、街道里巷,都布置下了这道风景。
桂花之于杭州,有不事张扬而又可以回味的气质,无需伟岸的形胜,无需夺目的艳丽,只用一种绝人的清香来氤氲。
(除署名外,本文照片由小五拍摄)
Osmanthus Glorifies the City By Pang Ru
Sweet osmanthus is the city flower of Hangzhou, the capital of Zhejiang, an eastern China’s coastal province. In the eighth month on the lunar calendar, the fragrance of the sweet osmanthus permeates the West Lake and streets and lanes across the urban part of the city.
The osmanthus tree is closely associated with the mountains west of the West Lake where Buddhist temples have clustered for about 1,500 years. Ancient history says that a Buddhist monk from India visited the mountains in the Xianhe years (326-334) of the Eastern Jin (317-420) and loved what he saw. Lingyin Temple was built there. This temple not only started the cultural landscape of Hangzhou but also exerted a strong influence on Chinese ideology.
The mountains west of the West Lake became a key Buddhism sanctuary in the Tang (618-907) and pilgrims visited the temples there regularly. A memoir of ancient legends and myths about the Lingyin Temple and other temples in the mountains has a special tale about the osmanthus trees. In one moonlit mid-autumn night, monks heard rain pelting the roofs of the temple. They investigated and saw the courtyard covered with blackish seeds. The black seeds were presented to the abbot the next morning. The abbot glanced at the seeds and said they were osmanthus seeds from the moon. The seeds were planted around the temple. Over centuries, they became woods. The fact that one of the mountains is known as Moon Osmanthus Peak testifies to the prosperity of osmanthus trees in the area.
For more than ten centuries, Hangzhou has inspired poets and artists. There are so many poems about the lake and the city that you would have difficulty reading them all in a year. Some best known ones are about osmanthus flowers in Hangzhou. And they are certainly among the greatest poems ever written in China.
Critics say that poems written in the Tang and early Song reflect the old charms of the Eastern Jin. However, after the city housed the royal house of the Southern Song (1127-1279), the aesthetics of the West Lake was secularized. And osmanthus played a part in the process of secularization.
Manjuelong, a valley in the mountains west of the West Lake, is the best place to enjoy the osmanthus blooming in Hangzhou since the Ming (1368-1644). Its fame has never waned. In the Southern Song, the osmanthus blooming in autumn began to attract visitors. There are numerous essays written in the past dynasties about the blooming there and about the village in the valley and about the people in the city who came out of the city and hanged out there breathing the aroma and forgetting themselves. The valley is an attraction different from all the other scenic attractions of the West Lake. The mountains and streams there are not exactly up to the beauty of the rest of the West Lake, but they combine to suggest a lifestyle about a leisurely and contented life in every sense of the word peace.
For centuries, the osmanthus flower has been a business. The villagers dehydrate the flowers and pickle dried flowers in sugar. The ingredient is widely used for preparing cakes, snacks and restaurant dishes in the local cuisine.
Some say there are about 7,000 osmanthus trees in the valley. In the eighth month on the lunar calendar, tables are set outdoors under osmanthus trees and people come and sit down for a cup of tea. They chat and play pokes. Many stay for dinner. This cottage restaurant mode has evolved into a huge market around the rural West Lake and across the province.
In 1984, the osmanthus flower was voted as the city flower. In 1985, Manjuelong was chosen as one of the new top ten scenic highlights of the West Lake as opposed to the ancient ten top views of the lake. The osmanthus woods there are the very reason the valley was favored. It wouldn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out how many voters had enjoyed the osmanthus aroma for years before the valley came up in the voting.