保罗·富塞尔是美国宾夕法尼业大学公文学教授,英美文化批评方面的专家。擅长于对人的日常生活进行研究观察,视角敏锐,语言辛辣尖刻,又不失幽默和善意。在他的《格调》一书中,对于社会等级地位这一何题,作者没有用学术的社会研究方式回答,而是从人的衣食住行以及日常话语里呈现出的特征来分析判断人的社会阶层。作者认为:人的相貌、身高、胖瘦、衣着都是人们社会等级的特征。比如微笑,贫民妇女的微笑要比中上层阶级妇女更频繁,嘴也咧得更大。理由是,一方面她们喜欢炫耀自己完美的假牙,另一方面她们沉浸在那种忙于告诉别人“我今天很快乐”的带防范心理的文化中。作者用很多篇幅着重谈论了人的衣着,如衣服“层”的多少,外衣上的标识,领带的颜色和图案,衣物的质地,上衣的领子等等。作者认为西装领口与衬衫之间的缝隙越宽,社会地位越低(缝隙达到一英寸宽一定是贫民阶层)。理由不仅是因为超级市场(穷人买衣服的地方)买的衣服不如专卖店或裁缝定做的衣服合体,还因为贫民阶层根本没有注意外农的肩部和领口是否贴实的习惯。 Paul Fuseller is a professor of public literature at the University of Pennsylvania and an expert in Anglo-American cultural criticism. Specializes in research and observation of people’s daily lives, keen perspective, spicy language, without loss of humor and goodwill. In his book “Style”, the author does not answer the question of the status of social hierarchy by means of academic research. Instead, he analyzes and judges the social strata based on the characteristics of people’s basic necessities and daily discourse . The author believes that people’s appearance, height, fat and thin, clothing are all characteristics of people’s social hierarchy. Such as a smile, poor women smile more than the upper-class women, the mouth is more blanket. The reason is that on the one hand they like to show off their perfect dentures and on the other hand they are immersed in a precautionary psychology that is busy telling others “I’m happy today.” The author uses a lot of space to talk about people’s clothing, such as clothing “layer ” number, coat logo, tie color and pattern, texture of clothing, jacket collar and so on. The author believes that the wider the gap between the suit collar and the shirt, the lower the social status (a gap of one inch wide must be the poor). The reason is not only because the supermarkets (where the poor buy clothes) buy clothes that are not as good as those made by tailors or tailors, but also because the poor do not even pay attention to the fact that the shoulders and necklines of foreigners are well-founded.