Green Ladies:减少浪费、回收再利用和风格转换

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  According to a survey conducted by a HK TV program, over 70% of the HK residents don’t buy second hand clothes. Many people still retain the old image of second hand clothing store as a dirty thrift store selling clothes with holes, rips and missing buttons. However, a shop is about to give a facelift to the moldy image of second hand clothes.
  The Green Ladies, a social enterprise operated by St James’ Settlement, is a women’s vintage clothing shop that resells quality women's fashion in a beautiful space. The shop is more than a great place to pick up trendy items at a reasonable price. It aims to bring social and environmental change in Hong Kong.
  The shop was based on 3 wins eco concepts: fashion recycling; fashion reuse and create job opportunities and better environment. Now, it has 2 stores in Wan Chi.
  根据香港某电视台的调查,超过70%的香港民众不倾向购买二手服装。许多人对二手服装仍持守旧的态度,认为它们已经过时、破烂不堪且来路不明。然而,Green Ladies的出现则大大转变了人们对二手服装的固有印象。
  Green Ladies是圣雅各福群辖下的社会企业,是环境优美的女性二手时装高级商店。它不仅使人们可以以更合理的价格买到流行女装,还有利于推动香港的社会发展和环境保护。
  这家商店建立在“三赢”的生态理念基础上:时装回收,时装再利用,创造就业岗位及美化环境。目前,该店在湾仔有两家分店。
  Shop for the Environment
  友好型环境消费
  ‘Go Green’ is a global trend. But Hong Kong residents throw away about 200 tons of clothing on average each day. Textile wastes are becoming a pressing environmental problem in Hong Kong. The problem urgently needs to be addressed.
  “绿色环保”是一个全球化的趋势。然而,香港人现在平均每天要扔掉大约200吨的服装。纺织品浪费已成为香港亟待解决的环境问题。
  “I think it is partly because Hong Kong is a shopping paradise, buying new clothes is cheap. Also, women trend to shop more than they need. And then they like to throw away out-fashioned clothes, some of which even haven’t worn before or are nearly brand-new. It creates a lot of wastes. ” Wendy Cheung, the manager of the Green Ladies, told.
  “我想一部分原因是因为香港是一个购物天堂,新衣服的价格较低廉。同时,女性频繁购买服装已成为时尚,所以他们喜欢扔掉过时的衣服,哪怕其中一些是全新或没怎么穿过的,这造成了很大的浪费。”Green Ladies的经理张颖雪这样告诉我们。
  The Green Ladies Offers a Way
  to Reduce Wastes
  Green Ladies提供了减少浪费的途径
  “’In the Green Ladies, people can recycle their high quality fashion clothes and buy trendy items in a reason price. It avoids wastages and utilizes resources”, she continued.
  And in order to create an eco-friendly shopping habit and reduce impulsive buying, the Green Ladies promotes the concept of “try before you buy” and “shop according to the need”.
  “We put up remarks like ‘try before you buy’; ‘shop according to the need’ and ‘do you have the same cloth in your closet?’ in almost every corner of our 2 stores, in order to remind our customers to think twice before buying. By doing so, we hope to reduce wastage and can create a green shopping habit in Hong Kong,” she said.   “在Green Ladies商店,人们可以寄卖并以非常合理的价格买入优质的时装。这样避免了浪费,充分利用了资源”,她继续说道。
  为了创造一个环保的消费习惯,减少冲动消费,Green Ladies倡导“先试后买”和“按需购物”的理念。
  “我们把‘先试后买’、‘按需购物’、和‘你衣橱里有一样的衣服么?’这类标语挂在我们两家店面的每个角落,希望能够提醒顾客谨慎购买。这样做是为了减少浪费,从而在香港创造绿色环保的购物习惯”,她说。
  And for the Green Ladies, the waste reduction is what they want to achieve the most because it is the key of protect environment. “To protect our environment, we first need to reduce wastes. By trying the clothes before buying, we can reduce waste, because we won’t buy any clothes that can’t fit,” Wendy stressed.
  对于Green Ladies来说,减少浪费是他们的首要目标,因为他们相信这是环保的关键。“为了保护我们的环境,我们必须首先减少浪费。通过先试后买,来确定一件衣服是否合身,避免浪费。”张颖雪强调说。
  Help Mid-aged Women
  帮助中年女性
  And when you walk inside the shop, you will first notice that there are no young sales helping you around the store. Instead of young sales, there are mid-aged women with years of experience in retail industry that provide good services to you. It is really different from other trendy stores in HK.
  “In addition to promote the concepts of reuse and recycling, providing a job opportunity to mid-aged women is another objective of establishing the Green Ladies, because many mid-aged women were laid off because of their age and having difficulties in getting a job in the retail industry,” Wendy explained.
  当你走入Green Ladies商店,你首先会注意到这里的店员都不是年轻的女性,而是中年女性。这些拥有零售业数年工作经验的中年女性可以为你提供更好的服务。这跟香港其他的时装店是十分不同的。
  “除了提倡回收再利用之外,为中年女性提供就业机会是创立Green Ladies的另一个目标,因为许多中年女性因为年龄问题很难在零售业获得就业机会。”她解释道。
  Many experienced employees in the retail industry were “abandoned” due to their age. It causes the wastage of human resources. “Because of their age, many sales were laid off by their pervious employers; they were forced to transfer to other departments like warehouse or their salary was reduced, as many companies want their frontline employees are young,” she said. But, in the Green Ladies, those mid-aged women are given a new opportunity to use their talents, as the shop only hires women over the age of 40. The oldest one is over 64 years old.
  The Green Ladies provides the mid-age women not only job but also learning, as the shop is closed for a day every 3 months for staff trainings. Trainings include communication skills, customer services and team building.
  许多零售业经验丰富的员工因为年龄问题而被“抛弃”,这引起了人力资源的浪费。“因为年龄问题,许多售货员被雇主解雇,他们被迫转到其他部门,如仓库等,他们的薪水也会减少,因为许多公司都希望他们的一线员工是年轻人。”然而,在Green Ladies商店,那些中年女性重新获得了展示才华的机会,因为这家商店只雇佣40岁以上的店员。目前,店内年龄最大的店员已经64岁了。   Green Ladies为中年女性提供的不仅是工作,还有学习的机会,因为商店每三个月会停业一天进行员工培训。培训内容涵盖了交流技能、客户服务和团队建设等。
  The Green Ladies closed the store at 7:00pm. Compared to other shops in Hong Kong, the Green Ladies closes really early, as the most popular time of the day for shopping in Hong Kong is after 7pm, the shop miss the golden time to increase their sales. In business wise, it is not a really good decision. “As our employees are mid-aged women, they have family responsibilities like looking after children and in-laws. Therefore, our opening hours is between 12:30pm-7:00pm, it allows our employees to work without interfering with their family life,” said Wendy.
  Green Ladies商店每天下午7点关门。与香港的其他商店相比,他们的关门时间非常早,而香港的黄金购物时间正是每天下午7点之后,也就是说商店错过了提高销量的黄金时间。从商业角度而言,这并不是明智的决定。“因为我们的雇员是中年女性,她们大多需要照顾家中的孩子和老人。因此,我们的营业时间从每天中午12点半到下午7点,这样一来我们的员工就可以更好的平衡工作和生活。” 张颖雪说。
  Consignment Model
  寄卖模式
  As the second hand store, the product quality is decisive whether the Green ladies will be success or failure in a competitive clothes market. The shop was established in 2008. At the initial stage, the shop accepted all clothes given to them. After 3 years of experiment, this “all welcome” approach had been proved failure, as the clothes quality was diverse and only few clothes could be resold or reused. It was not propitious for the promotion of fashion reuse.
  After few months of research and consultation, the Green Ladies decided to change their operation model to consignment. In November 2011, the Green Ladies became the first social eco enterprise that is operated under the consignment model.
  作为一家二手商店,商品质量是决定Green Ladies能否在服装市场立足的关键。Green Ladies创立于2008年,最初他们接受所有送来的衣服。经过三年的实践,这种“照单全收”的模式被证明是行不通的,因为服装质量参差不齐,其中只有很少的服装可以进行重用和二次售卖,这并不利于时装重用的推广。
  经过几个月的研究和咨询,Green Ladies决定将经营模式转变为寄卖型。2011年11月,Green Ladies成为第一家以寄卖模式经营的社会环保企业。
  “We only collect resalable high quality lady fashion and accessories. Our staff will do the screening and screen out the clothes in bad conditions such as torn, buttons missing and broken zippers,” she explained.
  ”
  The Green Ladies set the selling price based on the purchasing power of market and customers and factors such as brand, style, age, condition and past selling experience. All the profit will be divided in a 7:3 proportion. Consignors can get the maximum profit of 30% of the selling price. Since the Green Ladies changed to the consignment model, the quality of clothes has improved a lot and the fashion reuse rate has jumped from 25% to 66%.   To support the future development of Green ladies, some consignors only take 10% or 20% of profit or donate all the profit to the Green Ladies. “We have about 1800 regular consignors. Of them, about 5% of our consignors donate all the profit to the Green Ladies to cover our operation costs, as they have seen the design and decoration of our shops. All these need a large investment. And all these donations will go to support our training programs and other environmental projects. ” Wendy said.
  “我们只接受可以进行二次售卖的高质量时装和饰品。我们的员工会对衣服进行筛选,淘汰那些已经出现破损、缺少扣子、拉链损坏等情况的服装。
  Green Ladies会依据市场购买力、顾客、品牌、风格、新旧程度和过去售卖经历等对服装进行定价。所有收益会以7:3的比例进行分成。委托人会得到售价30%的收入。自从Green Ladies转变为寄卖式的经营模式后,服装质量大幅提高,再利用率也从25%攀升到66%。
  为了支持Green Ladies未来的发展,一些委托人只拿10%或20%的利润,甚至分文不取将所有利润捐给Green Ladies商店。“我们大概有1800个长期委托人。他们之中5%的人捐赠所有利润,以分担我们运营所需的开销,如店面的布置和装饰等,所有的这些都需要大笔投资。他们的捐赠还会用来支持我们的培训项目和其他环保项目。”
  Looking Toward to the Future
  展望未来
  There is a great potential market for second hand clothes in Hong Kong. The Green Ladies is planning to open another 2 shops in either Kowloon or New Territory within 3 years. “I hope the success of Green Ladies can change the shopping habits of Hong Kong residents,” she said.
  香港的二手服装市场有很大潜力。Green Ladies计划3年内在香港的九龙或新界再开两家分店。“我希望Green Ladies商店的成功可以改变香港人的购物习惯”,张颖雪说。
  However, the Green Ladies do not plan to extend their selection to men’s clothes because of the market situation. “It is really difficult to break into the men clothing market, because many men wear their clothes until they absolutely disintegrate or fall apart. Therefore, the Green ladies so far will only focus on the women clothing market. And we first would like to gain a firm foothold in the women fashion market, then use the experience learning from the Green ladies and then look for opportunity in other markets to promote green living in Hong Kong,” Wendy explained.
  尽管如此,根据目前的市场状况,Green Ladies并不打算将男士服装也纳入经营范围。“打入男装市场十分艰难,因为大多数男士并不会在衣服彻底损坏之前将其淘汰。因此,Green Ladies目前只专注于女装市场。我们首先要在女性时装市场站稳脚,然后利用这些经验在其他市场寻找发展机会,以更好的在香港推广绿色生活的模式。”张颖雪解释道。
  Shop Address:
  Main Shop
  G/F, St. James Settlement Headquarters
  No. 85 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chi, Hong Kong
  Second Shop
  UG-18-19, C. C. Wu Building
  302-308 Hennessy Road, Wan Chi, Hong Kong
  店铺地址:
  总店
  地址:香港湾仔石水渠街85号圣雅各福群会地下
  第一分店
  地址:香港湾仔轩尼诗道302-308号集成中心商场UG 18-19号铺
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