1988年夏,我乘特快列车由莫斯科出发,经三天三夜之后,抵达哈萨克草原的秋拉唐穆站。在阔别28年之后,我又回到了这永难忘怀的地方。当年在这个一望无际的炎热荒原上建起了绝密的10号火箭发射试验场,而今天,这里已是举世闻名的加加林宇宙火箭发射场。当年简陋的住宅区已荡然无存,代之以一座座高楼林立、树木葱茏的新城市列宁斯克。清晨,我从“中央饭店”出来,经过一条条陌生的街道,来到一片长着稀疏矮树的荒地,一座朴素的方尖碑猛然映入眼帘。碑上有一行简短的题词:“1960 In the summer of 1988, I flew from Moscow by express train and arrived at the Chellah Donmu Station in the steppe of Kazak in three days and nights. After an absence of 28 years, I returned to this unforgettable place. That year, a top-secret Rocket Launch Test Site No. 10 was set up in this endless hot wasteland. Today, it is the world-famous Gagarin Space Rocket Launcher. The humble residential area was gone, replaced by a new city of tall buildings, verdant trees in Leninsk. In the early morning, I came out from ”Central Hotel“ and passed a strange street to the wasteland with sparse bushes. A plain obelisk suddenly caught sight of it. There is a brief inscription on the tablet: ”1960