现在,高档宴席中鲍鱼成为不可缺少的一道菜,在各种鲍鱼制作的方法中,红烧鲍鱼制法最为常见。特别是用粤菜手法制作的鲍鱼几乎成为鲍鱼菜肴制作的经典。现在,鲍鱼几乎成为了高档的代名词,很多以专烧鲍鱼为招牌的高档酒楼,豪华、气派、高贵的让普通消费者敬而远之,只能仰视而不敢迈入。其实,在我国烹饪历史上,鲍鱼的制法非常之多,并非款款鲍鱼都是身着高贵的“皇冠”,也有一些可以让普通人消费食用的鲍鱼菜肴,而且同样经典。在全国各地都有自己特色的鲍鱼制作方法,如辽宁的鲜贝原鲍、甘肃的烩鲍鱼丝、山东的油爆鲍、扒原壳鲍鱼、江苏的鸡粥鲍鱼、北京的锅鲍鱼、四川的明珠酥鲍等。有一些方法,现在制作的人已经很少用了,更没有人会点、会吃了。鲍鱼用不同方法烹制更能从多方面体现鲍鱼的风味特色。因此,很多不常用,甚至将要失传的手艺也很值得挖掘和发扬光大。本期,我们特请北京名厨、清真菜烹饪专家郑继远师傅,就清真传统菜肴“麻酱烧紫鲍”这款菜进行点评。郑继远师傅,师承清真名厨杨永和,他在北京清真名馆又一顺分号工作多年,从厨几十年,对清真菜烹制颇有研究。郑师傅说,50多年前在又一顺就有麻酱烧紫鲍这款菜,现在没人做了。他希望这个非常好的、快要失传的老菜能被挖掘继承,焕发新春。——编者 Abalone is now an indispensable dish in high-end feasts, and the most commonly used method of making abalone is in abalone production. In particular, the abalone made with Cantonese cuisine has become almost a classic made of abalone dishes. Now, abalone has become synonymous with almost high-end, many restaurants to burn abalone for high-end luxury restaurant, luxury, style, noble to ordinary consumers at arm’s length, can only look up and afraid to move forward. In fact, in the history of cooking in our country, there are so many abalone production methods that not all abalone are dressed in noble “crown”, and there are some abalone dishes that can be consumed by ordinary people and are equally classic. Abalone produced in different parts of the country has its own characteristics, such as raw fresh abalone in Liaoning, abalone in Gansu, abalone in Shandong, abalone raw shell abalone, chicken abalone in Jiangsu, abalone in Beijing, Sichuan Pearl crisp abalone and so on. There are some ways that people who are making now are seldom used, and no one will eat it. Abalone cooked in different ways to reflect the many aspects of abalone flavor characteristics. Therefore, many are not commonly used, or even lost the craft is also worth exploring and carrying forward. This issue, we especially invited Beijing chef, Halal food expert Zheng Jiyuan master, on the halal traditional dishes, “Ma Zi burning purple abalone” this dish to comment. Master Cheng Ji Yuan, chef chefs Yang Yonghe, he worked in Beijing Muslim Museum again Shun semifinal for many years, chefs for decades, halal cuisine cooked quite a lot of research. Master Zheng said that more than 50 years ago, there is another Shun Ma Zi sauce burning purple abalone dish, and now no one did. He hoped that this very good, almost lost old vegetables can be inherited and rejuvenated. --editor