特伦蒂诺:意大利的安静一角

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  Trentino: Italy’s Quieter Corner
  Trentino does not readily 1)pop into mind for those thinking about an Italian trip. Tuscany, most certainly, and Umbria, Sicily—but Trentino? To mention this mountainous province tends to 2)invite head scratching: “Trentino…where is Trentino?”
  Look to Italy’s far northeast corner, 3)tucked into the shadow of the 4)jagged 5)limestone peaks of the famed Dolomites注1. To the west is Lombardy and Veneto to the east; Austria borders the north. Trentino remains relatively untouched by the tourists of summer.
  Trentino is 6)tailor-made for those who enjoy traveling on their own. One can 7)hike around a 8)secluded 9)alpine lake in the morning; taste wine at a familyowned 10)winery at noon; walk along the 11)palm-lined 12)promenade of a spa in the afternoon; dine at a Michelin-starred注2 restaurant; and slip into bed in a 13)medieval castle at the end of the day.


  Measured about 2,400 square miles (6,200 km2), Trentino is only as big as Utah’s Great Salt Lake when it is completely filled. Tucked in one small corner, here are 14)glaciers, alpine lakes and waterfalls. Castles 15)top almost every 16)promontory—some are in rocky ruin, many are partly 17)restored with others seeing service as museums and inns.
  18)Lush hillsides and valleys supply high-quality grapes for 19)renowned Italian wines, and fill the country’s market basket with a lot of fruits and vegetables, cheeses and specialty meats.
  20)Charming and tidy alpine villages 21)enchant people with 22)a tumble of bright 23)geraniums and 24)petunias. Trentino’s 25)thermal waters have been visited since ancient times. Here is one of the largest and most famous spa towns in the Italian Alps, Merano.
  The town of Trento, with a population of 55,000, beautifully situated in a wide 26)glacial valley with a backdrop of fantastic peaks, is the capital of this 27)autonomous region. 28)Off the beaten path of mass tourism, Trento is well worth a visit, with its unique architectural mix of restored late-Medieval and Renaissance注3 buildings.


  Traveling from north to south through Trentino, in about 62 miles (100 km), the 29)vegetation changes from alpine to 30)Mediterranean, complete with lemons, olives and 31)oleanders. At its southern end is Lake Garda, shaped like an 32)elongated, upside-down watery version of Italy itself. Italy’s largest lake is especially popular with Northern European tourists, who come to sail, 33)windsurf and water ski.


  Travelers with children 34)in tow will find Trentino a 35)veritable Disneyland of family activities. In addition to Lake Garda’s water sports, there are hundreds of marked hiking trails designated for their levels of difficulty. Families could board a cable lift, step off and begin their walks on the top of the world.


  In many valleys, 36)treks are organized in the high 37)alpine meadows where 38)dairymen take their herds for summer grazing.
  More accurately, this pleasure-packed region should be referred to as Trentino–Alto Adige, as it actually consists of two different provinces. Trentino, historically a part of Italy except for a period during the 19th and early 20th centuries when it was ruled by Austria, feels more Italian.


  Alto Adige’s ties to the north go back as far as the 3rd century B.C., when Germanic tribes 39)trudged down through the 40)mountain passes or 41)navigated the Adige River (Italy’s second-longest). Through the centuries, the northerners brought their culture, customs and 42)cuisine with them. In the Alto Adige, nearly every sign is written in both German and Italian, with about 70 percent of the residents speaking a local German
  43)dialect.
  A tourist 44)tabloid, Discover the Flavours, makes exploring the corners of the region much easier, with eight detailed 45)itineraries complete with maps, descriptions and suggested stops.
  While indicating where agricultural products and wines can be tasted along the way, the itineraries also include 46)extensive listings of where to eat, shop, as well as sleep, along with cultural stops considered too good to miss. That could well be said of the 47)entirety of this pleasure-packed corner of Italy.
  Trentino—a place too good to miss.


  当人们想要来场意大利之旅时,特伦蒂诺通常不会跳入人们脑中。人们最容易想到托斯卡纳区,当然还有翁布里亚、西西里岛等。但为什么要去特伦蒂诺呢?一提到这个多山的省份,人们往往抓耳挠腮:“特伦蒂诺……特伦蒂诺在哪?”
  特伦蒂诺位于意大利那遥远的东北一角,隐藏在著名的多洛米蒂山脉那参差不齐的石灰岩峰峦之中。特伦蒂诺西部与伦巴第相邻,东部便是威尼托,北部与奥地利接壤。即使是夏季,也鲜有游客会来到特伦蒂诺。
  对于那些喜欢自助旅行的人来说,特伦蒂诺就是为他们量身定做的。上午,你可以在人迹罕至的高山湖周围远足;中午,你可以来到家族经营的酿酒厂品尝红酒;下午,你可以沿着棕榈树林立的温泉浴场漫步;到了晚上,你可以到米其林星级餐厅享用晚餐。一天下来,是时候投入中世纪城堡那温暖床褥的怀抱中了。


  特伦蒂诺占地约2,400平方英里(即6,200平方公里),仅和被填满的美国犹他州大盐湖的面积一样大。位于意大利的小小一角,特伦蒂诺随处可见冰山、高山湖和瀑布。那里还城堡遍布:有的在岩石堆之中,更多的则是被部分修复成为博物馆或旅馆,用于观光服务。   那儿山岚苍翠,盛产高品质的葡萄,而这些葡萄也被用于制造享誉盛名的意大利葡萄酒。另外,这里也为这个国家供应着各式水果、蔬菜、奶酪以及一些特色肉类。
  高山上的村庄整齐迷人,种满了天竺葵和牵牛花,美丽的景色让人流连忘返。从古时候开始,特伦蒂诺的温泉水就已为人所知。这里的梅拉诺是意大利阿尔卑斯山脉地区最大、最出名的温泉镇之一。
  特兰托镇拥有5.5万人口,坐落在广阔美丽的冰川谷和高山之中,是特伦蒂诺自治区的区府。虽然不为大多数观光者所知,但特兰托镇有着中世纪后期及文艺复兴时期风格独特的修复建筑,非常值得一游。


  从北往南穿过特伦蒂诺,约有62英里(即100公里)长,一路上植被类型从阿尔卑斯地区的转变到地中海地区的,柠檬树、橄榄树和夹竹桃等映入眼帘。特伦蒂诺的最南部是加尔达湖,它就像个细长的倒过来的湖水版意大利。这个意大利最大的湖泊尤其受到北欧游客的欢迎,他们来这里进行帆船运动、冲浪和滑水。
  带着孩子们一起来游玩的游客会发现,特伦蒂诺有着各式各样的家庭活动,像一个名副其实的迪斯尼乐园。除了加尔达湖的水上活动,这里还有上百条已标记的登山路径,指定了不同的难度水平。各个家庭可以乘坐缆车到达山顶,从缆车下来后再从世界之巅开始他们的旅程。


  在许多山谷中,人们会徒步前往高山草甸。牧场场主在夏季都会带着他们的牧畜到那里吃草。
  更准确地说,这个充满快乐的地方应该叫做特伦蒂诺—上阿迪杰区,因为它实际上是由两个不同的省份组成。特伦蒂诺除了在19世纪到20世纪前期的这个时期被奥地利统治,自古以来都是意大利的一部分,更具有意大利风情。
  上阿迪杰省位于北部,它的历史可以追溯到公元前三世纪。那时候,日耳曼族人长途跋涉来到这里,穿过了狭隘的山口、驶过了阿迪杰河(意大利第二长河)。几个世纪以来,北方人带来了他们的文化、习俗,还有菜系。在上阿迪杰省,几乎所有指示牌都是同时用德语和意大利语标示,约有70%的居民说着带有当地德国口音的方言。
  《探索风味》是一本旅游手册,有了它,探索特伦蒂诺—上阿迪杰区的各个角落变得更加容易。手册内有八个详细的旅游行程,里面还附带了地图、说明以及一些建议停下来游玩的地方。
  除了告诉我们这一路上哪里的农产品和葡萄酒应该停下来好好品尝外,手册里的旅游行程还收入了一系列吃饭、购物以及住宿的地方。另外它也列出了一些绝对不能错过的文化景点。这一手册可以说涵盖了所有关于意大利这欢乐一角的介绍。
  特伦蒂诺—一个太美好而不能错过的地方。
  注1:多洛米蒂山脉,位于意大利东北部,有许多高峰,其最高点为马尔莫拉达峰。此山因法国地质学家迪尼多内·多洛米厄(Dieudonné Dolomieu)而得名。
  注2:米其林是历史悠久的专门评点餐饮行业的法国权威鉴定机构,它每年为法国的餐馆评定星级。
  注3:文艺复兴,指十三世纪末在意大利各城市兴起,之后扩展到西欧各国,于16世纪在欧洲盛行的一场思想文化运动。
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