阿拉斯加——一尘不染的冰封画卷

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  The Ice Age really had a 1)profound effect on this region of Southeast Alaska. All the great islands run north and south. All the channels, largely, are running north and south. Glacier Bay, only 200 years ago, had 4,000 feet of ice, and today there’s just 2)remnant glaciers.
  What I love is just the richness of this environment that we’re traveling through. Not only do you have the 3)spectacular4)glaciated mountains, the really 5)intact forests, but you got all the animals that thrive in these wild waters.
  Wow, there’s really a lot of activity here. We’re in the midst of a huge group of 6)humpback whales. That’s so beautiful right now with the calm water, the even light, the way these 7)spouts just really hang in the air. It almost looks like a watercolor painting. That’s spectacular! Just to have that dark green body of water, the way the spray is really distinguished from the dark background, and then that graceful wave: these huge animals just enter the water.
  Scientist: These whales winter in Hawaii. And they don’t feed there. That’s where they go to breed. That’s where they go to have 8)calves. And then they come back here to feed, to 9)forage in these rich waters.
  Host:What’s the status of the humpback whale? Are they 10)endangered?
  Scientist: Well, they’re still classified as an endangered animal, and under the 11)Endangered Species Act, but the populations here are definitely increasing. Humpback whales are coming back in the North Pacific.
  It’s an animal that you only get glimpses of part of their body, until they actually 12)breach.
  Scientist: They usually breach when they come back to the surface and usually, when they get into the rhythm, they come to the surface three or four times. But that first time they come back up after sounding or diving, they come up with such force that they can launch their bodies right out of the water.
  This is a great place. There’s so much action right here. The water is very turbulent and it mixes up the fish, the 13)herring, the 14)krill. Consequently we’ve got 15)cormorants, 16)gulls, eagles, sea lions, all 17)vying for the same food.
  Really great for the heart and for the mind to see an environment that is largely intact. The forests are all the way from the top of the ridges, all the way to the waterline. No clear cuts. No roads. No buildings along the shore.
  As we entered Glacier Bay, it’s really interesting to see how the glaciers have carved and shaped the land. Not only the 18)fiords, but many of the islands are resistant columns of rock that really rise out of the ocean bottom. As we head further up the bay towards the glaciers, the 19)terrain gets rockier and the water becomes much colder. The glaciers that feed fresh water into Glacier Bay are retreating at an amazing rate. It’s a natural process, but it’s being accelerated by global warming.
  I love this environment. It’s just like 20)kayaking through a huge watercolor painting to me. It’s hard to 21)fathom that this entire fiord was carved out by huge glaciers. The snow has been locked up in this ice for hundreds of years, and now it’s about to 22)calve into this fiord, melt, and once again join the water cycle. It’s really interesting, also, to see how the oldest ice is the clearest ice and it’s on the bottom layer of the glacier. And it’s really compressed hard and clear. Almost like the way diamonds are formed. Look at that wall over here, that looks just like a wall of jade. It’s so beautiful. The ice that’s got locked up in this glacier may have fallen in the form of snow hundreds of years ago. And now, at the 23)terminus, they’re calving off and ultimately melting out. And it’s 24)overwhelming when you think of the scale of the human in relationship to a wall of ice, maybe three or four hundred feet high.
  The glaciers are still active today, and it’s among the most exciting things that I’ve ever seen anywhere on Earth. To see a glacier calve into these deep blue waters is a really thrilling sight. It’s like explosions going off in front of you. It’s both frightening, but also extremely 25)intriguing and exciting to see.
  
  冰河时代的确对阿拉斯加东南部影响深远——所有岛屿都是南北走向,所有的水道向南北延伸。仅两百年前,冰川湾还有四千英尺的冰层,今天只剩残余冰川。
  我喜欢我们经过的这片多姿多彩的环境,不但可饱览壮观的冰山与几乎未曾受污染的原始森林,更可以看见在无人烟水域里茁壮成长的所有动物。
  哇!这里的水面真是活跃,我们身处一大群座头鲸中间。现在真美,水面平静,光线柔和,座头鲸喷出的水花在空中飘着,宛如水彩画一样。真壮观!那片深绿色的水,使水花在与深色背景的对比下显得格外分明,还有那优雅的浪花——这些庞然大物刚刚插入水里。
  科学家:这些鲸鱼在夏威夷过冬,但不在那边觅食,而是去繁殖,在那儿产下小鲸鱼。之后回来这富饶的水域觅食。
  主持人:座头鲸的现状怎样?它是濒危物种吗?
  科学家:根据美国的《濒危物种法》,它们仍被列为濒危动物,但这里的座头鲸数量确实正在逐渐增加。座头鲸在太平洋北部正卷土重来。
  你要等鲸鱼鲸跃,才能瞥见整个鲸身。
  科学家:它们通常在回到水面时才会鲸跃。通常当它们有了自己的节奏,就会跃上水面三至四次。当它们发声或下潜后首次返回水面时,鲸跃的力很大,能把整个身躯推出水面。
  这儿真是一个好地方,一片忙碌的景象。流水湍急,水中有各种鱼、鲱鱼、磷虾等。于是,鸬鹚、海鸥、海鹰、海狮等都在争夺相同的食物。
  欣赏这个基本上未被污染的地方实在是叫人心旷神怡。森林从山脊一直绵延至海岸线,中间没有断开,没有道路,沿岸也没有楼房。
  当我们进入冰川湾,看到冰川如何刻划着地貌煞是有趣。不止是峡湾,许多岛都是从海底冒上来的坚硬岩柱。我们前往海湾更深处,往冰川靠近,这一带越来越多岩石,水也变得更冷。给冰川湾注入淡水的冰川正以惊人的速度退却。这本是自然过程,但由于全球转暖而加快了速度。
  我喜欢这里,感觉就像划着独木舟在一幅巨大的水彩画里穿行,难以想像整个峡湾竟由大冰川塑造。雪已被困在冰里数百年了,现在即将崩塌融化,掉入这峡湾,重新进入水循环。有意思的是最古老的冰原来是最清澈的,而且这些冰就在冰川最底层,被挤压得非常坚硬且清澈,这几乎和钻石形成的方式一样。看这堵冰墙,看起来就像翡翠墙,真漂亮!被困在冰川的冰,可能在几百年前以雪的形式来到这里的。如今在冰川的边缘,它正在崩解,最后会融化。想到人类面对高三、四百英尺冰墙的渺小感觉,真让人不胜感慨。
  冰川在今天依然活跃,那是我见过的世界上最令人兴奋的景象之一。目睹冰川崩塌并融入这片深蓝色海水,真令人激动。仿佛爆炸就在你眼前发生,令人颤悚,而且扣人心弦。
  翻译:旭文
  


  


  

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