“简言之,食有三品:上品会吃,中品好吃,下品能吃。能吃无非肚子大,好吃不过老饕,会吃则极其复杂,能品其美恶,明其所以,调和众味,配备得宜,借鉴他家所长,化为己有,自成系统,乃上品之上者,算得上真正的美食家。要达到这个境界,就不是仅靠技术所能就,最重要的是一个文化问题。最高明烹饪大师达此境界恐怕微乎其微;文人达此境界较多较易,这就是因由所在。”唐振常《中国饮食文化二题》中说“吃的艺术”不能 In short, eat three products: top grade will eat, middle-grade delicious, the next product can eat eat nothing more than the stomach, delicious but gluttonous, eat is extremely complex, , To reconcile the public taste, with appropriate, learn from his director, into oneself, as a system, is superior to the above, regarded as a real gourmet. To achieve this state, it is not only by technology can, most What is important is a cultural issue. The culminating culinary masters can hardly reach this realm; the literati reach this realm more and more easily, which is the reason. “” Tang Zhen-chang’s “Two Courses of Chinese Culinary Culture” states that “the art of eating” Can not