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初秋的一日,夕阳将落,笔者在村民傅继泉、陈小香夫妇带领下,参观了位于浦江县白马镇永丰村的浙江省级文保单位——白马土库。
笔者的老家就在邻村。记得幼时,在夏夜或者冬日的午后,最爱听聚在明堂的老人们兴致勃勃地讲述土库的种种传奇;出来工作后,开始对家乡的历史、风俗、文化渐感兴趣,延宕日久,终于有了这次探寻之旅。
沟通海上丝路的重要环节
回老家之前,笔者查阅了一些资料,最为权威的说法应是《辞海》给出的解释:土库,即为明朝万历年间荷兰商人设在中国沿海一带的贸易站。
为什么荷商要在中国建土库?傅继泉给出了这样的回答:白马文史小组在《明朝列国外传》和《东西洋考》等书中考证到,明隆庆元年(1567),皇帝朱载垕调整海外贸易政策,允许私人贩货东、西两洋,海上贸易往来频繁;万历年间,政府实行海禁,但仍有大胆的商人铤而走险,私下与荷商贸易,并在福建、浙江、广东沿海发达地区建有土库九座,白马土库是其中之一,也是现在国内唯一的留存。
傅继泉向笔者介绍,白马一带是诸暨、义乌、浦江三县交界处,杨家埠直接连接浦阳江和钱塘江,出得杭州湾,水陆通畅,因而自古商贾云集。金华兰溪商人董华了解这里百姓安居乐业,民风淳朴,而巡检司又在六七里地以外,管理相对松懈,绝对是民间贸易、私下藏货的绝佳之处,便向荷商麻韦郎建议,在白马永丰村建起了一座规模庞大的土库,成为沟通浙江中、西部地区与海上丝绸之路的一个重要环节。
时至清朝康熙年间,政府严令禁止和外国人通商,自此,迫于压力的荷商全部撤出了中国,这座历史悠久、略带神秘色彩的土库,失去往日的作用。后来,土库成了民居房,惟有落日残映出一些当年海上丝路的繁华景象。
比邻而立几十年
土库已有400多年历史,进入本世纪初,除了正门墙壁和房屋柱子尚属完好外,其余均裂缝纵横,随时有倒塌的可能,十七八户人家陆续迁出。
文史爱好者傅继泉见状痛心疾首,他花费大量时间、精力查找、编写土库资料,不停地向媒体和民众呼吁,不断向有关部门反映土库的真实情况。2006年,他终于从县里争取到80万元人民币专项修复资金,从东阳请来美术工艺大师吴初伟和技术团队,本着“修旧如旧”的原则,对土库进行修复。
5个月的修复期间,傅继泉、陈小香一天不落地义务帮工,并贴钱给技术团队送水送饭。修复告成后,傅继泉默默无偿地干起了管理、清洁的工作,接待各类参观者和媒体,分发资料。他花下去的时间无法估算,光是资料打印费就用去数千元,好在子女们都能理解,常汇钱补贴。
村主任傅锡民告诉笔者,傅继泉主动接手土库的相关工作在20世纪90年代末,至今已近20年,他从未向村里要求过任何物资补助。村支书傅继海感动地说,傅继泉为保护地方文物作出了突出贡献,他的无私和热心肠值得所有人学习。
当笔者问傅继泉为何去做这件事时,他说,于私,他家和土库比邻而立几十年,充满了感情;于公,土库具有很高的历史研究和艺术欣赏价值,如任其倒塌,就永远不能复原,这无疑是很大的损失,自己所做的,是每个富有责任感的公民都应该做的。他还表示说,只要自己活着一天,就会将保护、修缮、宣传土库等工作做到底。
商行标志与蝴蝶形的马头墙
按照建筑规制修复的土库,沿用的基本都是拆下来的原件。
整座院落坐北朝南,有两进20余间房,建筑面积776平方米,规模颇大,结构颇精,风格也独特。
土库有左、右两个台门,上方分别嵌着莲花、宝瓶和马蹄形银锭等图案,这是中国发现的最早商行标志。另外,土库有蝴蝶形的马头墙总计二十二个,其数量之多,在国内也是鲜有的。傅继泉说,这些图案昭示着土库的灵魂;这些马头墙演绎着土库的史迹。
傅继泉指着土库前的空地说,此处原本为明堂,平坦开阔、水聚交流,四周是大片农田,可以看到浦阳江,是地气聚合之处,也兼做临时卸货之用。20世纪70年代后,永丰村人口增加,土地资源紧张,孤零零矗立的土库便逐渐混杂在民居里。傅继泉也正是那时候搬迁到土库附近的。
进入土库,笔者发现,除了追求精致美观,荷商麻韦朗对安全性和密封性也有很高要求。整座土库,只有第一进的一间房在外墙上开了窗,用作朝外观望,但钉有纵横交错的钢条栅栏。
土库堆放货物、财宝和枪支弹药,需要干燥。荷商麻韦郎精妙地设计了整座院落的排水系统。第一进二层三间、第二进二层七间以及左右两边各五间厢房,围成一个“品”字形,有前进大天井和后进两个小天井;每个天井都有单独的集水坑,承担排水功能。傅继泉说,他住在这里四十多年,从未看见土库有过积水,哪怕是1998年全村发大水时,土库也安然无恙。
“发现荷兰土库真是难得”
为了保护土库,居住里面的十七八户人家都已搬离,村里每年给予每间房500元的补助。村主任傅锡民向笔者透露,现在村里正通过换取宅基地等方式,把土库分散的私人产权变为集体产权。
在傅继泉的大力呼吁下,上级部门对土库也越来越重视。2015年,浦江县文化局出资,把明堂做成了青石板的,使之与土库的整体艺术格调更加相符。
土库引来不少文史界、考古界人士的考察,傅继泉每年都要接待好几批。土库修复后,他就给赶来考察的中国考古学会副理事长、国家文物局专家组成员、故宫博物院原院长张忠培做讲解介绍,张忠培赞叹:土库是国宝,是聚财之地,是中国唯一幸存的贸易站历史见证物,在国家文物保护单位名录中,尚无此类型列存,今天尚能发现真是难得,文物价值十分珍贵。
近些年,傅继泉明显感觉到参观土库的人数不断增多。他兴奋地告诉笔者,这证明散落乡野田间的文物受到越来越多的关注与重视;这说明海上丝路的文明有更大的展衍。同时,令他欣慰的是,土库修复前,当地许多村民对之一无所知,现在村里的垂髫小儿也能或多或少说出土库的一些情况。 One day in early autumn, I visited the site of a trade warehouse built in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) when Chinese smugglers did business with traders from Holland. The trade warehouse is more than 400 years old and is located in Yongfeng Village, White Horse Town in Pujiang County. The village is not far from my home village. I remember the anecdotes told by old people about the trade warehouse when I was a kid.
Fu Jiquan and his wife took me around the spacious compound. The first question I put to Fu Jiquan was, why Dutch traders built warehouses in China? His answer was interesting. A committee of history and culture in White Horse Town had done some research. Through textual research, local historians found that in 1567 the government of the Ming Dynasty adjusted its international trade policy and allowed private businesspeople to do business with Japan and Europe. However, the government tightened the trade again but smugglers continued to trade with Holland and the Dutch traders built nine warehouses in Zhejiang, Fujian and Guangdong provinces. The trade warehouse in Pujiang is the only one existing now. The other eight are long gone.
The warehouse in White Horse Town was a secret hoarding place. Situated in a remote area where Pujiang, Zhuji and Yiwu counties met. Nearby was a small port, from which ships could reach Hangzhou Bay and beyond. After looking around, Dong Hua, a businessman from Lanxi, suggested to a Dutch trader to have a warehouse built in the remote village far away from the local government office. The warehouse served as a key link for smugglers who ran the trade route from the western and central Zhejiang to the maritime Silk Road that connected China to the outside world.
During the 61-year reign of Emperor Kangxi (1654-1722) of the Qing (1644-1911), a total ban on international trade was imposed and the Dutch traders pulled out of China. The secret trade warehouse served as a cargo yard long after the Dutch traders left. In the 1970s, the village population exploded and new houses were constructed around the warehouse. The large compound had become so dilapidated in the early years of the 21st century that about 20 families living there had to get out.
Fu Jiquan, a villager who dedicated himself to the preservation of the warehouse, knew he must do something about the ancient trade warehouse. He compiled information on the warehouse and canvassed the local government. In 2006, the local government allotted 800,000 to repair the warehouse. A construction team from Dongyang came over, headed by Wu Chuwei, a master of art and craft. They spent five months repairing the warehouse. Fu Jiquan and his wife Chen Xiaoxiang volunteered and did chores at their own expenses. After the project, Fu appointed himself housekeeper to take daily care of the cultural relic. As a matter of fact, the coupled had concerned themselves with the warehouse toward the end of the 1990s. They have never asked for a penny from the village.
The 776-square-meter warehouse is worth protection not simply because it is a historical site. It offers more than its historical importance. The large compound was designed by a Dutch trader. The layout of the compound looks like a Chinese character品, one large courtyard with two smaller ones. The compound is in three parts and two rows. Fu is deeply impressed by the drainage system which functions separately in three courtyards. The warehouse has never been flooded. In 1988, the village was flooded but the warehouse withstood the flood. The warehouse was designed to be a stronghold for storing goods, cash and weapons. The large compound has only one window in one room in the front row where people inside can look out. The window is protected with a steel fence.
The fa?ade presents two gates decorated with lotus flowers, treasure bottles and silver ingots in the shape of horseshoe. The compound presents 22 horse-head walls in the shape of butterflies. In front of the warehouse there used to be a large village square connected with farmlands on four sides. Now the square is paved with stone slabs, a project done in 2015 and funded by the local government. From the square one used to see the Puyang River. It was then that Fu had set up his home near the warehouse.
The warehouse has attracted the attention of the national authorities on cultural relics. Zhang Zhongpei, former president of the Palace Museum in Beijing, has visited the warehouse. Zhang wowed at the luck that this warehouse has survived. It is one of a kind in China and the national catalogue doesn’t have a classification for this warehouse.
Nowadays, the warehouse attracts more and more tourists. Before the warehouse was restored, only some people in the village knew anything about the genesis and the history of the warehouse. Now, even kids know something about it.
笔者的老家就在邻村。记得幼时,在夏夜或者冬日的午后,最爱听聚在明堂的老人们兴致勃勃地讲述土库的种种传奇;出来工作后,开始对家乡的历史、风俗、文化渐感兴趣,延宕日久,终于有了这次探寻之旅。
沟通海上丝路的重要环节
回老家之前,笔者查阅了一些资料,最为权威的说法应是《辞海》给出的解释:土库,即为明朝万历年间荷兰商人设在中国沿海一带的贸易站。
为什么荷商要在中国建土库?傅继泉给出了这样的回答:白马文史小组在《明朝列国外传》和《东西洋考》等书中考证到,明隆庆元年(1567),皇帝朱载垕调整海外贸易政策,允许私人贩货东、西两洋,海上贸易往来频繁;万历年间,政府实行海禁,但仍有大胆的商人铤而走险,私下与荷商贸易,并在福建、浙江、广东沿海发达地区建有土库九座,白马土库是其中之一,也是现在国内唯一的留存。
傅继泉向笔者介绍,白马一带是诸暨、义乌、浦江三县交界处,杨家埠直接连接浦阳江和钱塘江,出得杭州湾,水陆通畅,因而自古商贾云集。金华兰溪商人董华了解这里百姓安居乐业,民风淳朴,而巡检司又在六七里地以外,管理相对松懈,绝对是民间贸易、私下藏货的绝佳之处,便向荷商麻韦郎建议,在白马永丰村建起了一座规模庞大的土库,成为沟通浙江中、西部地区与海上丝绸之路的一个重要环节。
时至清朝康熙年间,政府严令禁止和外国人通商,自此,迫于压力的荷商全部撤出了中国,这座历史悠久、略带神秘色彩的土库,失去往日的作用。后来,土库成了民居房,惟有落日残映出一些当年海上丝路的繁华景象。
比邻而立几十年
土库已有400多年历史,进入本世纪初,除了正门墙壁和房屋柱子尚属完好外,其余均裂缝纵横,随时有倒塌的可能,十七八户人家陆续迁出。
文史爱好者傅继泉见状痛心疾首,他花费大量时间、精力查找、编写土库资料,不停地向媒体和民众呼吁,不断向有关部门反映土库的真实情况。2006年,他终于从县里争取到80万元人民币专项修复资金,从东阳请来美术工艺大师吴初伟和技术团队,本着“修旧如旧”的原则,对土库进行修复。
5个月的修复期间,傅继泉、陈小香一天不落地义务帮工,并贴钱给技术团队送水送饭。修复告成后,傅继泉默默无偿地干起了管理、清洁的工作,接待各类参观者和媒体,分发资料。他花下去的时间无法估算,光是资料打印费就用去数千元,好在子女们都能理解,常汇钱补贴。
村主任傅锡民告诉笔者,傅继泉主动接手土库的相关工作在20世纪90年代末,至今已近20年,他从未向村里要求过任何物资补助。村支书傅继海感动地说,傅继泉为保护地方文物作出了突出贡献,他的无私和热心肠值得所有人学习。
当笔者问傅继泉为何去做这件事时,他说,于私,他家和土库比邻而立几十年,充满了感情;于公,土库具有很高的历史研究和艺术欣赏价值,如任其倒塌,就永远不能复原,这无疑是很大的损失,自己所做的,是每个富有责任感的公民都应该做的。他还表示说,只要自己活着一天,就会将保护、修缮、宣传土库等工作做到底。
商行标志与蝴蝶形的马头墙
按照建筑规制修复的土库,沿用的基本都是拆下来的原件。
整座院落坐北朝南,有两进20余间房,建筑面积776平方米,规模颇大,结构颇精,风格也独特。
土库有左、右两个台门,上方分别嵌着莲花、宝瓶和马蹄形银锭等图案,这是中国发现的最早商行标志。另外,土库有蝴蝶形的马头墙总计二十二个,其数量之多,在国内也是鲜有的。傅继泉说,这些图案昭示着土库的灵魂;这些马头墙演绎着土库的史迹。
傅继泉指着土库前的空地说,此处原本为明堂,平坦开阔、水聚交流,四周是大片农田,可以看到浦阳江,是地气聚合之处,也兼做临时卸货之用。20世纪70年代后,永丰村人口增加,土地资源紧张,孤零零矗立的土库便逐渐混杂在民居里。傅继泉也正是那时候搬迁到土库附近的。
进入土库,笔者发现,除了追求精致美观,荷商麻韦朗对安全性和密封性也有很高要求。整座土库,只有第一进的一间房在外墙上开了窗,用作朝外观望,但钉有纵横交错的钢条栅栏。
土库堆放货物、财宝和枪支弹药,需要干燥。荷商麻韦郎精妙地设计了整座院落的排水系统。第一进二层三间、第二进二层七间以及左右两边各五间厢房,围成一个“品”字形,有前进大天井和后进两个小天井;每个天井都有单独的集水坑,承担排水功能。傅继泉说,他住在这里四十多年,从未看见土库有过积水,哪怕是1998年全村发大水时,土库也安然无恙。
“发现荷兰土库真是难得”
为了保护土库,居住里面的十七八户人家都已搬离,村里每年给予每间房500元的补助。村主任傅锡民向笔者透露,现在村里正通过换取宅基地等方式,把土库分散的私人产权变为集体产权。
在傅继泉的大力呼吁下,上级部门对土库也越来越重视。2015年,浦江县文化局出资,把明堂做成了青石板的,使之与土库的整体艺术格调更加相符。
土库引来不少文史界、考古界人士的考察,傅继泉每年都要接待好几批。土库修复后,他就给赶来考察的中国考古学会副理事长、国家文物局专家组成员、故宫博物院原院长张忠培做讲解介绍,张忠培赞叹:土库是国宝,是聚财之地,是中国唯一幸存的贸易站历史见证物,在国家文物保护单位名录中,尚无此类型列存,今天尚能发现真是难得,文物价值十分珍贵。
近些年,傅继泉明显感觉到参观土库的人数不断增多。他兴奋地告诉笔者,这证明散落乡野田间的文物受到越来越多的关注与重视;这说明海上丝路的文明有更大的展衍。同时,令他欣慰的是,土库修复前,当地许多村民对之一无所知,现在村里的垂髫小儿也能或多或少说出土库的一些情况。 One day in early autumn, I visited the site of a trade warehouse built in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) when Chinese smugglers did business with traders from Holland. The trade warehouse is more than 400 years old and is located in Yongfeng Village, White Horse Town in Pujiang County. The village is not far from my home village. I remember the anecdotes told by old people about the trade warehouse when I was a kid.
Fu Jiquan and his wife took me around the spacious compound. The first question I put to Fu Jiquan was, why Dutch traders built warehouses in China? His answer was interesting. A committee of history and culture in White Horse Town had done some research. Through textual research, local historians found that in 1567 the government of the Ming Dynasty adjusted its international trade policy and allowed private businesspeople to do business with Japan and Europe. However, the government tightened the trade again but smugglers continued to trade with Holland and the Dutch traders built nine warehouses in Zhejiang, Fujian and Guangdong provinces. The trade warehouse in Pujiang is the only one existing now. The other eight are long gone.
The warehouse in White Horse Town was a secret hoarding place. Situated in a remote area where Pujiang, Zhuji and Yiwu counties met. Nearby was a small port, from which ships could reach Hangzhou Bay and beyond. After looking around, Dong Hua, a businessman from Lanxi, suggested to a Dutch trader to have a warehouse built in the remote village far away from the local government office. The warehouse served as a key link for smugglers who ran the trade route from the western and central Zhejiang to the maritime Silk Road that connected China to the outside world.
During the 61-year reign of Emperor Kangxi (1654-1722) of the Qing (1644-1911), a total ban on international trade was imposed and the Dutch traders pulled out of China. The secret trade warehouse served as a cargo yard long after the Dutch traders left. In the 1970s, the village population exploded and new houses were constructed around the warehouse. The large compound had become so dilapidated in the early years of the 21st century that about 20 families living there had to get out.
Fu Jiquan, a villager who dedicated himself to the preservation of the warehouse, knew he must do something about the ancient trade warehouse. He compiled information on the warehouse and canvassed the local government. In 2006, the local government allotted 800,000 to repair the warehouse. A construction team from Dongyang came over, headed by Wu Chuwei, a master of art and craft. They spent five months repairing the warehouse. Fu Jiquan and his wife Chen Xiaoxiang volunteered and did chores at their own expenses. After the project, Fu appointed himself housekeeper to take daily care of the cultural relic. As a matter of fact, the coupled had concerned themselves with the warehouse toward the end of the 1990s. They have never asked for a penny from the village.
The 776-square-meter warehouse is worth protection not simply because it is a historical site. It offers more than its historical importance. The large compound was designed by a Dutch trader. The layout of the compound looks like a Chinese character品, one large courtyard with two smaller ones. The compound is in three parts and two rows. Fu is deeply impressed by the drainage system which functions separately in three courtyards. The warehouse has never been flooded. In 1988, the village was flooded but the warehouse withstood the flood. The warehouse was designed to be a stronghold for storing goods, cash and weapons. The large compound has only one window in one room in the front row where people inside can look out. The window is protected with a steel fence.
The fa?ade presents two gates decorated with lotus flowers, treasure bottles and silver ingots in the shape of horseshoe. The compound presents 22 horse-head walls in the shape of butterflies. In front of the warehouse there used to be a large village square connected with farmlands on four sides. Now the square is paved with stone slabs, a project done in 2015 and funded by the local government. From the square one used to see the Puyang River. It was then that Fu had set up his home near the warehouse.
The warehouse has attracted the attention of the national authorities on cultural relics. Zhang Zhongpei, former president of the Palace Museum in Beijing, has visited the warehouse. Zhang wowed at the luck that this warehouse has survived. It is one of a kind in China and the national catalogue doesn’t have a classification for this warehouse.
Nowadays, the warehouse attracts more and more tourists. Before the warehouse was restored, only some people in the village knew anything about the genesis and the history of the warehouse. Now, even kids know something about it.