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清袁宏道在《龙井记》中对当时的茶品有一番见解,云:“余尝与陶石篑、黄道元、方子公汲泉烹茶于此,石篑因问龙井茶与天池孰佳?余谓龙井亦佳,但茶少则水气不尽,茶多则涩味尽出,天池殊不尔。大约龙井头茶虽香,尚作草气,天池作豆气,虎丘作花气,惟岕茶非花非水,稍类金石气,又若无气,所以可贵。”将茶味以金石气喻之,也是独特的评论。借以观清代的书画篆刻家们的作品,他们对茶的见解和对茶饮的体会也是各有其妙,但在总体上都有一种凝重感,似也有一种金石之气
Qing Yuan Hongdao in the “Longjing Ji” in the tea products at that time have some insight, cloud: “I taste and Tao Shizhu, Huang Daoyuan, Fangzi Gong Xi Quan cooking tea here, Shijie asked Longjing tea and Tianchi good? Yu Longjing is also good, but tea is not less than the water vapor, tea, astringent taste is made, Tianchi not Seoul.Although Longjing Tau tea is fragrant, yet as straw, Tianchi for beans, Huqiu for Huayu, but岕 tea non-flower non-water, slightly quarzification gas, and if no gas, it is valuable. ”Tea flavor to metaphor of the metaphor, but also a unique comment. In order to see the works of the calligraphy and painting seventies of the modern generation, their opinions about tea and their experience of tea are also different, but on the whole, they have a sense of solemnity, and they also seem to have a precious stone