《咬文嚼字》1997年第1期刊登了袁诹先生的《“大闸蟹”试释》一文。袁先生从“吴语”研究入手,对“大闸蟹”的“闸”进行了一番寻根探源,以为“‘闸’是一种烹饪方法,就是将食物在清水中煮熟。蟹无论大小,以此法由生变熟,都叫‘闸蟹’。……而大闸蟹之称只有当它入过汤镬,穿上红袍,作入盘餐时才是准确的。”袁先生的分析与结论,本人不敢苟同,并以为有些牵强。 “Bite the word” 1997 the first issue of Mr. Yuan Yong’s “” crab “try to explain a” article. Starting from the study of “Wu”, Mr. Yuan conducted some root-seeking on the “gate” of “hairy crabs,” thinking that “gate” is a kind of cooking method that cooks food in clean water. This method from birth to familiar, are called ’crabs’ ... ... and crabs, said only when it into the soup, put on red robe, into the dish meal is accurate. "Mr. Yuan’s analysis and conclusions, I do not agree, and that some far-fetched.