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为了搞清海浪成长过程的内在机理,进而应用于提高其预报水平,从六十年代开始,海浪生成发展机制的研究,一直受到海浪工作者的重视。这方面的研究成果认为,大气向水波输送能量的过程可以看作是无粘性的,从理想流体的基本运动方程出发,提出了共振和剪流理论。共振理论指出,水波对大气脉动能量的吸收是有选择性的,能谱随时间呈线性成长。剪流理论则指出,由于水面气流的垂直不均匀性,水气界面上的某种扰动将在大气和水体中产生成对偶合的涡,在
In order to find out the internal mechanism of sea wave growth process and then to improve its forecasting level, the research on the mechanism of ocean wave generation and development from 1960s has always been paid attention to by wave workers. The research results in this respect think that the process of energy transfer from the atmosphere to the water wave can be regarded as non-sticky. Based on the basic equations of motion of the ideal fluid, the theory of resonance and shear flow is proposed. Resonance theory states that the absorption of water pulsation into the atmospheric pulsation energy is selective and the energy spectrum grows linearly with time. The shear flow theory states that due to the vertical inhomogeneity of the water surface currents, some perturbation at the water vapor interface will produce twin coupled vortices in the atmosphere and water