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对于旅行者来说,意大利实在有太多值得流连的地方——罗马、威尼斯、佛罗伦萨、那不勒斯……这些大名鼎鼎的地方每年不知吸引了多少游客。也许正是因为意大利的名胜古迹太多,很少人会注意到其北部的湖区。位于湖区的科莫湖距离熙熙攘攘的米兰只有一小时车程,环境清幽,风景如画,被誉为“米兰的后花园”。英国诗人雪莱曾用“超过了所有的美(exceeds anything I ever beheld in beauty)”来形容它。本期“环球风情”将带大家领略科莫湖的别样风情。
My wife and I began visiting Italy in 2000. Each year we would pick a few different places to see. We started with some of the most well known destinations –
Venice, Florence, Rome, the Amalfi coast, as well as many less well known places and small towns. We toyed with the idea of actually moving to Italy and leaving
San Francisco for good[永久地]. But as much as we liked Italy, no place really grabbed us. That is until we went to Lake Como. We arrived in October of 2003. By April of the following year, we were full time residents[居民].Just like that!
After a few days in Varenna, we visited Bellagio and then Menaggio. But it was on the western side of the lake, an area called Tremezzina – one of the nicest and certainly the warmest, that we decided to live. We now make our home in Lenno, an ancient romantic village nestled[挨着,靠着] on the shore.
When we stepped off the train that day in Varenna, it was a bit like walking through the looking glass[镜子]. The beauty of the lake is truly incredible. It changes slowly, endlessly and you never really get used to it. Surrounded by very steep[陡峭的] mountains, the lake stretches[伸展] for 25 miles. The largeness of the lake provides the area with relatively[相对地] warm winters. Palm trees are everywhere. Persimmons[柿子], oranges, figs[无花果], and even kiwis[猕猴桃] grow easily.
Numerous villages dot[在……上打点] the shore at times, stretching back up into the mountains here and there. Some are perched[栖息,位于] on ridges[山脊]. Thick stone masonry[砖石建筑] is everywhere, as are splendid[壮丽的] 18th century villas[别墅,小屋] and simple stone houses, many of which are five hundred years old.
Life is slow and simple. And yet the bustling[熙熙攘攘的] world of Milan is only an hour away. It was this combination of stepping back in time and also having easy access[通路] to modern life that made the lake so attractive to us – and to me, the possibilities for painting.
There are harbors of every size with an endless variety of colorful boats. Or if you are at the lake shore, you turn and look up and see magnificent mountains silhouetted[使现出轮廓] against the sky, with houses and pieces of villages reflecting light and creating shadows. Within a minute’s walk from the lake shore, you find yourself surrounded by cobble[鹅卵石] stone paths, tall rock walls, arches[拱门] and cafes. The houses are positioned in a variety of ways, each overlapping[重叠] the other, each with coral tiled[用瓦盖] roofs. After a few more minutes up the hill, you are looking down into the lake, enjoying velvet vistas[远景,深景], rooftops and church towers. And if painting people is your thing, you will find villagers, kids and fishermen working, resting,eating outside in what seems like a fabulously pre-arranged studio of life.
Flowers, fields, goats, gardens – it’s all here.
Another plus for plein-air注1 artists is that once you park your car, which is simple and free, everything is within easy walking distance. Hiking up the steep paths may not be for everyone, but it is certainly worth the effort. In addition, cafes and restaurants are sprinkled[使散布] throughout, which makes it quite easy and delightful to take a break, enjoy fish from the lake and a glass of wine, relax as you eat out-of-doors[户外,在露天] and contemplate[沉思] where you might set up your easel[画架] next.
“Paradiso注2?” Well, if beauty, good weather and relaxation are not your cup of tea, perhaps not. But for those of us who wish to enjoy the simple pleasures and the simple pleasure of painting, Lake Como is a MUST destination.
从2000年开始,我和太太就开始到意大利旅游。每年我们都会选择几个不同的地方观光,起初是从最著名的旅游胜地开始——威尼斯、佛罗伦萨、罗马、阿马尔菲海岸,还有许多其他名气稍逊的景点和小镇。我们常常开玩笑说要移居意大利,永远离开旧金山。不过,虽然我们喜欢意大利,没有一个地方能真正抓住我们的心——直到我们来到科莫湖。2003年10月,我们到访科莫湖;翌年4月,我们已经成为这里的永久居民。就是这么简单!
我们先是在瓦伦纳镇待了几天,然后又去了贝拉吉奥和梅纳吉奥。不过,最终让我们决心定居的是一个叫做迟米兹那的地方。它位于科莫湖西面,是其中一个最美丽也最温暖的地方。现在我们在莱诺安了家,这是一个偎依在湖岸的浪漫古村。
在瓦伦纳走下火车的时候,我们感觉有点像走在镜子里。科莫湖真的美不胜收。它的美在慢慢地、不停地变换着,你永远无法对它习以为常。科莫湖长度可达25英里(约40千米),周围被非常陡峭的山峰环绕。这样宽广的湖面使周围地区的冬天比较温暖。棕榈树随处可见;柿子、桔子、无花果,甚至连猕猴桃都很容易在这里生长。
科莫湖岸边点缀着无数村落,一直延伸到山里的各个角落,有些甚至坐落在山脊上。由厚重的石块砌成的建筑物随处可见,还有漂亮的18世纪别墅和简单的石屋,其中许多已有五百年历史。
这里的生活缓慢而简单,然而米兰的花花世界距离此地仅一小时车程。正是这种古朴的风格与便利的现代生活结合,让我们为科莫湖所深深吸引;对我而言,它还为绘画提供了得天独厚的条件。
大大小小的港口停泊着五颜六色的各种船只。如果你在湖边,举目便能看到壮丽山峰的轮廓映照在天幕上,房屋和村庄反射着光线,投下阴影。如果你沿湖边走一分钟,就会发现自己周围环绕着石板路、高高的石墙、拱门还有咖啡店。房屋以各种方式呈现在你的眼前,珊瑚瓦屋顶层层叠叠,交相辉映。再往山上走几分钟,从那里俯视科莫湖,在弥漫着一片紫色的视野中欣赏屋顶和教堂塔尖的风光。如果你喜欢描绘人物,你可以捕捉到村民、孩童和渔夫在户外干活、休息、用餐时的场景,就好像置身于一个事先经过精心安排的、呈现生活场景的工作室——花朵、田野、山羊、花园,应有尽有。
对于户外写生画家而言,这里还有一个便利之处,那就是当你把车停好以后(免费而且很方便),一切都在轻松步行的距离之内。虽然沿着陡峭的山路徒步上山并不一定适合每一个人,但的确值得一试。此外,咖啡店和餐馆鳞次栉比,停下来稍作小憩也变得简单而愉快了——享受湖里出产的鲜鱼,饮上一杯佳酿,彻底放松,一边在户外用餐,一边构思接下来要在哪里支起画架。
“这里是天堂吗?”如果美丽的风景、宜人的天气和放松休闲不适合你的口味,那么,或许这里不是你的天堂。不过,对于我们这些追求简单乐趣和绘画这种简单乐事的人而言,科莫湖便是一个不容错过的胜地。
注1:“plein-air”意为户外写生画,指直接利用室外光线进行描绘的画法。
注2:“paradiso”是意大利语,意为“天堂”。
My wife and I began visiting Italy in 2000. Each year we would pick a few different places to see. We started with some of the most well known destinations –
Venice, Florence, Rome, the Amalfi coast, as well as many less well known places and small towns. We toyed with the idea of actually moving to Italy and leaving
San Francisco for good[永久地]. But as much as we liked Italy, no place really grabbed us. That is until we went to Lake Como. We arrived in October of 2003. By April of the following year, we were full time residents[居民].Just like that!
After a few days in Varenna, we visited Bellagio and then Menaggio. But it was on the western side of the lake, an area called Tremezzina – one of the nicest and certainly the warmest, that we decided to live. We now make our home in Lenno, an ancient romantic village nestled[挨着,靠着] on the shore.
When we stepped off the train that day in Varenna, it was a bit like walking through the looking glass[镜子]. The beauty of the lake is truly incredible. It changes slowly, endlessly and you never really get used to it. Surrounded by very steep[陡峭的] mountains, the lake stretches[伸展] for 25 miles. The largeness of the lake provides the area with relatively[相对地] warm winters. Palm trees are everywhere. Persimmons[柿子], oranges, figs[无花果], and even kiwis[猕猴桃] grow easily.
Numerous villages dot[在……上打点] the shore at times, stretching back up into the mountains here and there. Some are perched[栖息,位于] on ridges[山脊]. Thick stone masonry[砖石建筑] is everywhere, as are splendid[壮丽的] 18th century villas[别墅,小屋] and simple stone houses, many of which are five hundred years old.
Life is slow and simple. And yet the bustling[熙熙攘攘的] world of Milan is only an hour away. It was this combination of stepping back in time and also having easy access[通路] to modern life that made the lake so attractive to us – and to me, the possibilities for painting.
There are harbors of every size with an endless variety of colorful boats. Or if you are at the lake shore, you turn and look up and see magnificent mountains silhouetted[使现出轮廓] against the sky, with houses and pieces of villages reflecting light and creating shadows. Within a minute’s walk from the lake shore, you find yourself surrounded by cobble[鹅卵石] stone paths, tall rock walls, arches[拱门] and cafes. The houses are positioned in a variety of ways, each overlapping[重叠] the other, each with coral tiled[用瓦盖] roofs. After a few more minutes up the hill, you are looking down into the lake, enjoying velvet vistas[远景,深景], rooftops and church towers. And if painting people is your thing, you will find villagers, kids and fishermen working, resting,eating outside in what seems like a fabulously pre-arranged studio of life.
Flowers, fields, goats, gardens – it’s all here.
Another plus for plein-air注1 artists is that once you park your car, which is simple and free, everything is within easy walking distance. Hiking up the steep paths may not be for everyone, but it is certainly worth the effort. In addition, cafes and restaurants are sprinkled[使散布] throughout, which makes it quite easy and delightful to take a break, enjoy fish from the lake and a glass of wine, relax as you eat out-of-doors[户外,在露天] and contemplate[沉思] where you might set up your easel[画架] next.
“Paradiso注2?” Well, if beauty, good weather and relaxation are not your cup of tea, perhaps not. But for those of us who wish to enjoy the simple pleasures and the simple pleasure of painting, Lake Como is a MUST destination.
从2000年开始,我和太太就开始到意大利旅游。每年我们都会选择几个不同的地方观光,起初是从最著名的旅游胜地开始——威尼斯、佛罗伦萨、罗马、阿马尔菲海岸,还有许多其他名气稍逊的景点和小镇。我们常常开玩笑说要移居意大利,永远离开旧金山。不过,虽然我们喜欢意大利,没有一个地方能真正抓住我们的心——直到我们来到科莫湖。2003年10月,我们到访科莫湖;翌年4月,我们已经成为这里的永久居民。就是这么简单!
我们先是在瓦伦纳镇待了几天,然后又去了贝拉吉奥和梅纳吉奥。不过,最终让我们决心定居的是一个叫做迟米兹那的地方。它位于科莫湖西面,是其中一个最美丽也最温暖的地方。现在我们在莱诺安了家,这是一个偎依在湖岸的浪漫古村。
在瓦伦纳走下火车的时候,我们感觉有点像走在镜子里。科莫湖真的美不胜收。它的美在慢慢地、不停地变换着,你永远无法对它习以为常。科莫湖长度可达25英里(约40千米),周围被非常陡峭的山峰环绕。这样宽广的湖面使周围地区的冬天比较温暖。棕榈树随处可见;柿子、桔子、无花果,甚至连猕猴桃都很容易在这里生长。
科莫湖岸边点缀着无数村落,一直延伸到山里的各个角落,有些甚至坐落在山脊上。由厚重的石块砌成的建筑物随处可见,还有漂亮的18世纪别墅和简单的石屋,其中许多已有五百年历史。
这里的生活缓慢而简单,然而米兰的花花世界距离此地仅一小时车程。正是这种古朴的风格与便利的现代生活结合,让我们为科莫湖所深深吸引;对我而言,它还为绘画提供了得天独厚的条件。
大大小小的港口停泊着五颜六色的各种船只。如果你在湖边,举目便能看到壮丽山峰的轮廓映照在天幕上,房屋和村庄反射着光线,投下阴影。如果你沿湖边走一分钟,就会发现自己周围环绕着石板路、高高的石墙、拱门还有咖啡店。房屋以各种方式呈现在你的眼前,珊瑚瓦屋顶层层叠叠,交相辉映。再往山上走几分钟,从那里俯视科莫湖,在弥漫着一片紫色的视野中欣赏屋顶和教堂塔尖的风光。如果你喜欢描绘人物,你可以捕捉到村民、孩童和渔夫在户外干活、休息、用餐时的场景,就好像置身于一个事先经过精心安排的、呈现生活场景的工作室——花朵、田野、山羊、花园,应有尽有。
对于户外写生画家而言,这里还有一个便利之处,那就是当你把车停好以后(免费而且很方便),一切都在轻松步行的距离之内。虽然沿着陡峭的山路徒步上山并不一定适合每一个人,但的确值得一试。此外,咖啡店和餐馆鳞次栉比,停下来稍作小憩也变得简单而愉快了——享受湖里出产的鲜鱼,饮上一杯佳酿,彻底放松,一边在户外用餐,一边构思接下来要在哪里支起画架。
“这里是天堂吗?”如果美丽的风景、宜人的天气和放松休闲不适合你的口味,那么,或许这里不是你的天堂。不过,对于我们这些追求简单乐趣和绘画这种简单乐事的人而言,科莫湖便是一个不容错过的胜地。
注1:“plein-air”意为户外写生画,指直接利用室外光线进行描绘的画法。
注2:“paradiso”是意大利语,意为“天堂”。