论文部分内容阅读
Just like jeans, T-shirts became one of the 20th century’s most universal and mythical items of clothing—with more than two billion a year sold worldwide. An extraordinary fate for this 1)unassuming cotton tube shaped like a T that began its career in the men’s underwear department.
In the 1970s, 2)Elle magazine announced that the T-shirt would become “a basic item of clothing that will never go out of fashion because it’s already beyond fashion.” The 3)wager was won, because the T-shirt has been admitted to that 4)hallowed 5)pantheon of basics, alongside the 6)trench coat and the little black dress. Yet nothing seemed to 7)preordain the T-shirt’s 8)exalted status as a worldwide, unisex uniform not only of relaxation, but of elegance, too. Before being displayed on 9)chests of every shape and size, the T-shirt began its career in the secrecy of the men’s underwear department.
At the end of the 19th century, this shirt 10)learnt the ropes in the U.S. Navy well before it won the hearts of sportsmen and workers alike, with its twin virtues of comfort and hygiene. When those 11)GIs who showed off their T-shirts during the Second World War in the 12)sweltering heat of the Tropics returned home, their shirts were as heroic as they were. And the new gods of Hollywood, going by such names as 13)Marlon Brando and 14)James Dean, gave the T-shirt its rebel cachet and showed the whole world just how erotic it could be.
In the 1960s, with the development of 15)silkscreen inks, the T-shirt became the universal, unisex medium for proclaiming, or just sending messages. Whether delivering the peace-and-love message of the hippies, or even as a walking billboard for multinational corporations, this symbol of consumer society has turned into a kind of portable modern medium, one both affective and demanding. It is also a work of art that embodies new democratic ideals. In a word, the T-shirt is to clothing what the blank sheet of paper is to writing—a surface for imagination and free expression to run wild. Be it in 16)chic plain colors or a gaudy print; adorned with a message on the front or the back, the T-shirt sends out certain signals. Printed with the Rolling Stones’ tongue or the name of Britney Spears, embellished with the 17)crest of a favorite team, this undershirt 18)juggles with every manner of identifying sign among all the many tribes and clans in the world of youth.
The official fashion world, often influenced by the eye-catching styles of the street, got its hands on the T-shirt so that it could meet the new desire for luxurious relaxation. Enhanced by shapehugging 19)Lycra, 20)cashmere or 100% silk, pop designer or 21)logomaniac, the T-shirt has little by little betrayed its democratic origins, and turned into a luxury article. Henceforth, well-removed from political 22)manifestos, brands are involved with both mass customization and limited editions, turning this basic garment into the fleeting reflection of the wearer’s personality.
A long way from universalized fashion, the T-shirt also 23)plays hooky and can be adapted to anyone’s personal whim or wish. As a result of new computer software and stores offering personalized 24)tansfers, the T-shirt can be made to measure or to commemorate the big moments of everyday life. Life stories can now be told on T-shirts. And the story of the T-shirt, which fashion historians have hitherto 25)turned their noses up at, is nowadays trying to unfold in words and pictures.
跟牛仔裤一样，T恤在20世纪大行其道，是服饰界的一大神话——全球每年销量达20亿件。这形似T字的棉质汗衫刚面世时很不起眼，从当初起步于男士内衣部到今时今日的发展，可谓命途非凡。
上个世纪70年代，《世界时装之苑》杂志曾宣称，T恤将成为“衣饰中永不过时的基本单品，因为它已经超越了时尚的概念”。没猜错，T恤已经获准进入“必备服饰”这一神圣殿堂，与双排扣大衣和小黑裙共享时尚席位。现在T恤在全球地位崇高，男女同好，雅俗共赏，当初却仿佛没有什么前途辉煌的迹象，在登上形形色色大大小小的货架之前，T恤只是在男士内衣部悄然无声地崭露头角。
19世纪末，凭着舒适和卫生的双重优点，T恤先是深得美国海军青睐，继而凭借同样的优点成功俘获运动员和工人阶层的心。二战期间那些美国大兵们一身T恤在炙灼难耐的热带战场亮相，回国后，他们那些T恤成了英雄气概的象征。当年好莱坞的新偶像如马龙·白兰度和詹姆斯·迪恩更给T恤贴上了反叛的标签，同时向世界展现，T恤原来可以如此性感。
上个世纪60年代丝网印刷油墨的新发展令T恤成为男男女女发表宣言或仅仅用来传达信息的共同媒介。无论是传递嬉皮士呼唤爱与和平的信息，或者甚至是给跨国集团作活的广告牌，作为消费社会一大符号的T恤已成为一种轻便的现代化媒体，既承载情感亦表达诉求。T恤同时也是体现民主新思潮的艺术品。一句话，T恤之于衣履有如白纸之于写作——给想象力和自由言论随心抒发的平台。时尚的纯色也好，印上俗艳图案也好，又或是正面或背面衬以一句广告词，T恤都在传递着某种信息。有的印上滚石乐队的舌头或是小甜甜布兰妮的名字，有些则配上心爱球队的队徽，各色各样的T恤变换着花式，在年轻人的世界里成为不同派别阵营的识别标记。
经常受街头抢眼款式影响的时尚工业也看中了T恤，大加改良发展，满足人们对奢华休闲服饰的新欲望。加入贴身塑形的莱卡，以羊绒混纺，或采用100%真丝质料，顶级设计师挂帅，又或者是狂打名牌标识，这种种提升T恤身价之举却使其渐渐背离本身的民主草根起源，转而成为一种奢侈品。此后，T恤不再是发表政治宣言的平台，时尚品牌涉足T恤的规模定制和限量版制造，让本来必备的单衣变为闪现穿者个性的镜子。
T恤远不属那些程式化的时尚，它也可以跳出框框随个人奇想或心愿改变式样。有新式电脑软件的辅助，加上店铺提供个性化图案印制服务，T恤可以做到度身定做，或特制来纪念日常生活中的重要时刻。借助T恤，我们可以讲述生活的点滴故事。而T恤的故事，虽然一直为研究时尚发展史的学者所不屑，但今天可以看到，其发展的高潮起伏透过文字和图案正全面展开。
In the 1970s, 2)Elle magazine announced that the T-shirt would become “a basic item of clothing that will never go out of fashion because it’s already beyond fashion.” The 3)wager was won, because the T-shirt has been admitted to that 4)hallowed 5)pantheon of basics, alongside the 6)trench coat and the little black dress. Yet nothing seemed to 7)preordain the T-shirt’s 8)exalted status as a worldwide, unisex uniform not only of relaxation, but of elegance, too. Before being displayed on 9)chests of every shape and size, the T-shirt began its career in the secrecy of the men’s underwear department.
At the end of the 19th century, this shirt 10)learnt the ropes in the U.S. Navy well before it won the hearts of sportsmen and workers alike, with its twin virtues of comfort and hygiene. When those 11)GIs who showed off their T-shirts during the Second World War in the 12)sweltering heat of the Tropics returned home, their shirts were as heroic as they were. And the new gods of Hollywood, going by such names as 13)Marlon Brando and 14)James Dean, gave the T-shirt its rebel cachet and showed the whole world just how erotic it could be.
In the 1960s, with the development of 15)silkscreen inks, the T-shirt became the universal, unisex medium for proclaiming, or just sending messages. Whether delivering the peace-and-love message of the hippies, or even as a walking billboard for multinational corporations, this symbol of consumer society has turned into a kind of portable modern medium, one both affective and demanding. It is also a work of art that embodies new democratic ideals. In a word, the T-shirt is to clothing what the blank sheet of paper is to writing—a surface for imagination and free expression to run wild. Be it in 16)chic plain colors or a gaudy print; adorned with a message on the front or the back, the T-shirt sends out certain signals. Printed with the Rolling Stones’ tongue or the name of Britney Spears, embellished with the 17)crest of a favorite team, this undershirt 18)juggles with every manner of identifying sign among all the many tribes and clans in the world of youth.
The official fashion world, often influenced by the eye-catching styles of the street, got its hands on the T-shirt so that it could meet the new desire for luxurious relaxation. Enhanced by shapehugging 19)Lycra, 20)cashmere or 100% silk, pop designer or 21)logomaniac, the T-shirt has little by little betrayed its democratic origins, and turned into a luxury article. Henceforth, well-removed from political 22)manifestos, brands are involved with both mass customization and limited editions, turning this basic garment into the fleeting reflection of the wearer’s personality.
A long way from universalized fashion, the T-shirt also 23)plays hooky and can be adapted to anyone’s personal whim or wish. As a result of new computer software and stores offering personalized 24)tansfers, the T-shirt can be made to measure or to commemorate the big moments of everyday life. Life stories can now be told on T-shirts. And the story of the T-shirt, which fashion historians have hitherto 25)turned their noses up at, is nowadays trying to unfold in words and pictures.
跟牛仔裤一样，T恤在20世纪大行其道，是服饰界的一大神话——全球每年销量达20亿件。这形似T字的棉质汗衫刚面世时很不起眼，从当初起步于男士内衣部到今时今日的发展，可谓命途非凡。
上个世纪70年代，《世界时装之苑》杂志曾宣称，T恤将成为“衣饰中永不过时的基本单品，因为它已经超越了时尚的概念”。没猜错，T恤已经获准进入“必备服饰”这一神圣殿堂，与双排扣大衣和小黑裙共享时尚席位。现在T恤在全球地位崇高，男女同好，雅俗共赏，当初却仿佛没有什么前途辉煌的迹象，在登上形形色色大大小小的货架之前，T恤只是在男士内衣部悄然无声地崭露头角。
19世纪末，凭着舒适和卫生的双重优点，T恤先是深得美国海军青睐，继而凭借同样的优点成功俘获运动员和工人阶层的心。二战期间那些美国大兵们一身T恤在炙灼难耐的热带战场亮相，回国后，他们那些T恤成了英雄气概的象征。当年好莱坞的新偶像如马龙·白兰度和詹姆斯·迪恩更给T恤贴上了反叛的标签，同时向世界展现，T恤原来可以如此性感。
上个世纪60年代丝网印刷油墨的新发展令T恤成为男男女女发表宣言或仅仅用来传达信息的共同媒介。无论是传递嬉皮士呼唤爱与和平的信息，或者甚至是给跨国集团作活的广告牌，作为消费社会一大符号的T恤已成为一种轻便的现代化媒体，既承载情感亦表达诉求。T恤同时也是体现民主新思潮的艺术品。一句话，T恤之于衣履有如白纸之于写作——给想象力和自由言论随心抒发的平台。时尚的纯色也好，印上俗艳图案也好，又或是正面或背面衬以一句广告词，T恤都在传递着某种信息。有的印上滚石乐队的舌头或是小甜甜布兰妮的名字，有些则配上心爱球队的队徽，各色各样的T恤变换着花式，在年轻人的世界里成为不同派别阵营的识别标记。
经常受街头抢眼款式影响的时尚工业也看中了T恤，大加改良发展，满足人们对奢华休闲服饰的新欲望。加入贴身塑形的莱卡，以羊绒混纺，或采用100%真丝质料，顶级设计师挂帅，又或者是狂打名牌标识，这种种提升T恤身价之举却使其渐渐背离本身的民主草根起源，转而成为一种奢侈品。此后，T恤不再是发表政治宣言的平台，时尚品牌涉足T恤的规模定制和限量版制造，让本来必备的单衣变为闪现穿者个性的镜子。
T恤远不属那些程式化的时尚，它也可以跳出框框随个人奇想或心愿改变式样。有新式电脑软件的辅助，加上店铺提供个性化图案印制服务，T恤可以做到度身定做，或特制来纪念日常生活中的重要时刻。借助T恤，我们可以讲述生活的点滴故事。而T恤的故事，虽然一直为研究时尚发展史的学者所不屑，但今天可以看到，其发展的高潮起伏透过文字和图案正全面展开。