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关于海浪的概率分布,目前流行的是一种正态理论,也就是定点记录的波面坐标服从正态分布,而波高服从瑞利分布。这种理论的基础是概率论中的中心极限定理,与深海中的观察结果是基本相符的。但是,把海浪的各成份看成互相独立的,这在理论上是有问题的,实际上,海浪的不对称性也是众所周知的,特别,在浅海,这种不对称性就更为显著,因此,人们也提出过修改这种正态理论的方案,文献中建议用A
As for the probability distribution of waves, what is popular at present is a kind of normal theory, that is, the wave-surface coordinates of fixed-point records obey the normal distribution while the wave height obeys Rayleigh distribution. The basis of this theory is the central limit theorem in probability theory, which is basically consistent with the observations in the deep sea. However, it is theoretically problematic to regard the various components of the waves as independent of each other. In fact, the asymmetry of the waves is also well known. In particular, in shallow waters, this asymmetry is even more pronounced. Therefore, , People also proposed to modify this normal theory of the program, the literature suggests using A.