民以食为天。尤其出门远游,光记得几处名胜,倘不和吃联系,印象往往浅淡。吃是一种文化,而且一个地方的总体文化色调与它的饮食文化色调又是相互融会贯通的。多走几处,自作比较,便明其中之妙。比方说,到北京吃烤鸭、茯苓饼、绿豆糕,就不由想起《酌中记》、《金韵退食笔记》,因而感受到明清京城生活的几丝余韵。到上海吃牛肉馄饨,就不由想起《茶楼杂记》、《上海繁华梦》,因而感受到租界割据、中西合璧的半殖民地复杂文化。 People eat food for the day. In particular, go out and travel, light remember a few famous places, if not and eat contact, the impression is often shallow. Eating is a culture, and the overall cultural tone of a place is in harmony with the color of its diet culture. More to go a few, make their own comparison, it shows that one of the wonderful. For example, to Beijing to eat roast duck, Poria cakes, mung bean cakes, would not help to think of “Notes in mind”, “Jin Yun back notes”, and thus feel the Ming and Qing dynasties Jingjing life a few aftershocks. When I was in Shanghai to eat beef wonton, I could not help thinking of the “Tea House Miscellany” and “Shanghai’s bustling dream”, so I felt the semi-colonial and complex culture of the concession and the integration of Chinese and western cultures.