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清代戏剧家李渔在《闲情偶集》里记述了他的一段亲身经历:一次,他到西秦(今陕西)作客,南归前,忽见自己住所的炕上堆着一团头发,以为是婢女们梳头时遗留下来的,便要将其扔掉。一个在旁的婢女忙来阻拦说,这并非头发,而是当地官宦馈赠给他的礼物,叫头发菜;浸以滚水,拌以姜醋,其可口倍于藕丝、鹿角等菜。李渔携归后,宴请亲朋至友,众人无不称赞头发菜是美味
Li Yu, a Qing Dynasty dramatist, described his personal experience in his “Leisure Feeling”: once he was a guest in Xiqin (now Shaanxi) and before he returned to the south, he suddenly saw a pile of hair on the kang of his residence. When they thought they were left behind by the girls, they would have to throw it away. One next to the niece busy to stop saying that this is not hair, but the gift of local government officials gifts to him, called the hair dishes; immersed in boiling water, mix with ginger vinegar, its delicious times as lotus silk, antlers and other dishes. Li Yu, after returning to dinner, friends and relatives to dinner, everyone praised the hair dishes are delicious