当“丑”成为一种潮流

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  基本上,“熟女”、“丑女”在荧屏上从崭露头角到大放异彩,不过短短两三年时间。2005年,当一半以上的韩国人坐到电视机前看那个胖乎乎的金三顺的故事时,“丑女”还仅仅是个茶余饭后的谈资罢了;2006年,“丑女贝蒂”席卷美国和世界,连时尚界都吹起了不可思议的“贝蒂风”。当“丑”成为一种潮流,我们心中对“美”的概念,是否也在进行一场革命?
  —Tiffany
  
  From her 1)Groucho Marx eyebrows to her 2)protruding 3)braces, her 4)vintage “Guadalajara” 5)poncho to her 6)clashing sweater vests, the curvy Betty Suarez certainly sticks out from the stick figures she works with at the fictional New York fashion magazine Mode.
  Much fun is made of the notion that Betty Suarez is not the magazine’s most 7)comely employee. But as the central character of the hit TV series Ugly Betty, Betty, played by Latina actor America Ferrera, is a rare beauty, inside and out. And despite the mean-girl 8)taunts of her co-workers, Betty’s the cool one.
  
  Betty 9)Mania
  
  The show’s stylists were wise not to dress her too badly. Betty has a clear sense of style, though the overall look is sometimes 10)muddled. Thankfully she resists the temptation to make herself over. Only at the recent Golden Globe awards, where the show won Best Comedy and Ferrera won for Best Actress, did most viewers catch a 11)glimpse of Betty’s potential.
  It’s the powerful impact of her hair, brows, glasses, braces and 12)wardrobe that complete Betty’s 13)dorky 14)persona. By deconstructing her look, however, it’s clear that Betty is a 15)cunning creation. Patricia Field who famously created the looks for 16)Sex and the City, also envisioned the 17)template for the pilot of Ugly Betty.
  


  Betty’s costume designer Eduardo Castro walks a fine line, portraying the sweet girl from Queens as a junior employee 18)on a budget but with a 19)subversive nod to fashion nonetheless.
  From her 20)tartan kilts to her 21)boisterous tie-front blouses and knit sweater vests, Betty’s wardrobe can be found in many of Toronto’s trendy stores. In London, hip stores like 22)Topshop and 23)H&M can’t keep the elements of her look in stock.
  It may be surprising to some, but Betty is being 24)touted as the new 25)Carrie Bradshaw, 26)prompting one reviewer to comment, “No TV character had exercised such a direct influence on women’s 27)sartorial choices—until now. And it’s the most unlikely style icon you’d ever imagine, the absolute anti-Carrie Bradshaw: It’s Ugly Betty.”
  Some popular culture watchers are wondering if we are experiencing a sort of Betty Mania. Does she represent a shift in public opinion? Is ugly the new beautiful?
  
  To Be Ugly ‘07
  
  Ugly Betty turns the word “ugly” upside-down and has launched a campaign to challenge 28)conventional perceptions and 29)stereotypes of real beauty.
  ABC, teaming up with Girls Inc., a national nonprofit youth organization dedicated to inspiring all girls to be strong, smart and bold, announced a new public service campaign—Be Ugly ’07—to hit the web and the streets on December 30th, 2006. The campaign’s aim—aside from scoring more viewers for ABC’s hit 30)dramedy—is to 31)debunk conventional notions of beauty, asking young women to “be real, be smart, be passionate, be true to yourself and be ugly, like Ugly Betty in 2007.”
  

  The campaign is the latest entry in a 32)backlash to the images of rail-thin models that 33)bombard young women daily.
  Dove’s talked-about Campaign for 34)Real Beauty has become a popular global ad effort based on debunking conventional beauty stereotypes. 35)Alex Kuczynski’s best seller Beauty Junkies examines the 36)obsession with 37)plastic surgery. In interviews, she has talked about how “stupid” it was for her to wear 38)acrylic nails and spend money on 39)Botox and painful 40)liposuction.
  Redefining beauty “is in the cultural 41)zeitgeist,” says ABC Entertainment marketing executive Michael Benson. “Be Ugly ’07” will encompass appearances, a website (BeUgly07.com) and events.
  Girls Inc. president Joyce Roche says the campaign “allows us to counter the messages girls get that they’ve got to be perfect, be a certain size, look a certain way.”
  But is encouraging them to be ugly the way to reach them? “We hope that people go beyond the headline of ugly,” Roche says, “I wish there would have been another way of saying it, but at least it will get the dialogue going.”
  If the Bettys of the world have their way, a new generation of leading ladies will be judged more by the content of their character than the content of their closets. The 42)pendulum has swung.
  


  
  格劳乔·马克斯式的眉毛、外突的牙箍、老式的“瓜达拉哈拉”披风,还有不协调的毛线坎肩,这种打扮使体态丰满的贝蒂·斯沃尔兹在虚构的纽约时尚杂志《Mode》那些衣架似的职员中,不可避免地成为一个异类。
  不少人都嘲笑说贝蒂·斯沃尔兹并不是杂志职员中最标致的一个。热播电视剧《丑女贝蒂》的主角由拉丁裔演员亚美莉卡·弗伦拉扮演,这个角色可是一个从里到外都不寻常的美人。尽管在剧中贝蒂被刻薄的同事奚落,但她确是一个很酷的女人。
  
  贝蒂热潮
  
  电视剧的造型师很聪明,没有让她穿得太难看。虽然有的时候贝蒂的整体外型有点杂乱无章,但她还是有着自己的风格。谢天谢地,她拒绝了过分装扮自己的诱惑。在最近的金球奖颁奖礼上,《丑女贝蒂》获得了最佳喜剧奖,弗伦拉获得了最佳女主角奖。只有在那个时候,观众才看到了贝蒂的潜力。
  头发、眉毛、眼镜、牙箍和衣服,这些元素的有力结合使贝蒂傻呼呼的人物形象得以血肉丰满。这些东西也具有很强的影响力。当你仔细解构贝蒂的外型,你会发现她是一件很聪明的作品。曾成功地塑造了《欲望都市》人物形象的帕特丽夏·菲尔德这一次也担当重任,为《丑女贝蒂》的试播剧集设计人物形象模板。
  贝蒂是一个来自从皇后区的可爱却囊中羞涩的初级职员。服装设计师埃杜拉多·卡斯特罗在设计贝蒂的形象时做得恰到好处,既表现了她的特色,也具有颠覆时尚的意味。
  从她的格子短裙到让人眼花缭乱的蝴蝶结衬衣和针织背心,贝蒂身上的衣服可以在多伦多的许多时尚商店找得到。在伦敦,像Topshop和H&M这样的新潮商店,这些衣饰常常被一扫而空。
  对许多人来说,贝蒂被吹捧成另一个凯莉·布拉德肖多少有些出乎意料。一名剧评人这样感慨道:“迄今为止,从来没有一个电视剧角色会对女性的衣服选择有如此直接的影响。这是最不可能的时尚偶像,这绝对是反凯莉·布拉德肖的:这就是丑女贝蒂。”
  一些流行文化的观察家正想搞明白我们是不是正在经历一场贝蒂热潮。她真的代表了公众观点的转变吗?“丑”是不是成了最新的“美”?
  
  2007年做丑女
  
  《丑女贝蒂》把“丑”字来了个颠覆,并且开展了一场运动,挑战对美女的传统定义和成见。
  Girl Inc.是一个全国性的非营利性青年组织,旨在鼓励所有女孩子自强、有智慧和有胆识。美国广播公司与其合作,开展了一个新的公益宣传活动——2007年做丑女。这个活动在2006年12月30日在网络启动,并走上街头。这次活动的目的除了提高美国广播公司这个电视剧的收视率外,就是要驳斥关于美丽的传统观念,要求年轻女子“真实、聪明、热情,真诚地对待自己,在2007年做个丑女,就像丑女贝蒂那样。”
  年轻女孩子每天都被那些骨架似的模特形象轮番攻击,这次活动正是一次最新的反制行动。
  多芙公司一个引起舆论反响的名为“真正美丽”的活动旨在驳斥传统的美丽偏见,如今它已经成为流行全球的广告。艾力斯·库兹斯基著写的畅销书《美容成瘾》研究了对整形手术着迷的现象。在采访中,她谈到,对她来说,戴着丙烯酸指甲和花钱注射肉毒素和抽脂都是很愚蠢的事。
  美国广播公司的娱乐市场部高管麦克尔·本森说,重新定义“美”“已经成为文化时代潮流。” “在2007年做丑女”活动包括了名人的公开露面、网址(BeUgly07.com)和一系列活动等内容。
  Girl Inc.的总裁乔伊斯·罗奇表示,这个活动“可以让我们反击那些关于女孩子一定要完美无瑕,身材一定要符合某一个尺寸,外貌也只能是某个样子的这种信息。”
  但鼓励她们做丑女就能与她们沟通吗?“我们希望人们能够不局限于我们突出宣传的丑,”罗奇说,“我也希望能有另外的方式来宣传,但这至少能让观点的交流成为可能。”
  如果世界上的所有贝蒂都按自己的方式生活,那么人们会以一个角色的内涵而不是她们的衣服来判断新一代领衔女主角。形势已经初起变化。
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