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“老爹”海明威与哈瓦那
“老爹”是海明威有名的绰号。他一生中超过三分之一的时间是在古巴首都哈瓦那度过的，其作品《老人与海》、《丧钟为谁而鸣》就在该地完成。他曾经这样描述古巴：“我热爱这个国家，感觉像在家里一样。一个使人感觉像家一样的地方，除了出生的故乡，就是命运归宿的地方。”
哈瓦那有很多著名的酒吧，其中很多是海明威生前常去的，如博得吉达酒吧（又译“五分钱小酒店”）、小佛罗里达餐馆等。博得吉达酒吧最有名的酒是一种用朗姆酒加薄荷叶和柠檬调配的鸡尾酒，叫“莫希托”。这家酒吧至今还保留着海明威的手迹：“我的莫希托在博得吉达酒吧，我的达伊基里（另一种鸡尾酒）在小佛罗里达餐馆。”
On a small side street just west of the Plaza de Cathedral注1 is the most famous bar in all of Havana, the Bodeguita del Medio注2. At first glance, this tiny bar doesn’t appear to be much. The furnishings[室内陈设品] are worn, and the walls appear to be covered in graffiti[涂鸦].
A closer look at this graffiti shows you one of the reasons why this place is so famous. The walls are covered with signatures and comments[意见] from past patrons[老顾客]. The names on the wall include Nat King Cole注3, Fidel Castro and the man most associated[联想到] with the place, Ernest Hemingway.
The Bodeguita started as a small general store in 1942, owned and operated by Angel Martinez. By 1946, he realized that the place was becoming more of a popular hangout[经常去的地方], and it slowly converted[使转变]
into a restaurant and bar. It soon drew[吸引] hundreds of students, musicians and bohemians.
Over the years the popularity of the place grew. In recent years, it has become one of the most popular tourist draws in Havana. Each day, people from all over the world would arrive here. Each of them is hoping to share in the history, enjoy a mojito (the house special), and add their names to the wall.
It is not quite clear when or how the idea of scrawling[潦草书写] names on the wall began. Some say Hemingway started it. More than likely it started as a way of
leaving messages for friends, and it just grew from there. For whatever reason, everyone now does it.
I’ve signed it on four different occasions and am never able to find where I did the last time. The most famous signature on the walls, of course, belongs to
Ernest Hemingway. The Bodeguita was one of his
favourite haunts[常去的地方].
The tiny restaurant with only 15 tables to the rear of the bar may seem common, but it is actually a five-star establishment[商业机构] and winner of many awards. There is always a line up to eat here, so prepare to be patient. The menu of Cuban and Creole注4 dishes, however, is well worth the wait.
The best time to visit is in the evening after the
tourists have left. While it is still hard to get a table in the restaurant, the front bar is relatively[相对地] quiet. You can sip your mojito in peace and examine the
photos and signatures that cover the walls. Feel free to add your own. It’s
a tradition. You can even ask one of the
bartenders[调酒师]
to show you how to make a mojito, just like “Papa” liked them.
哈瓦那最出名的博得吉达酒吧位于教堂广场西面的小巷子里。乍看之下，这家小小的酒吧并不怎么吸引人。里面的家具老旧，墙上尽是涂鸦。
但只要仔细看看这些涂鸦，你就会发现这个小地方如此闻名的其中一个原因。酒吧的墙壁上写满了以往老顾客的签名和评价，其中包括纳特·金·科尔、菲德
尔·卡斯特罗，还有与这个地方渊源最深的人——欧内斯特·海明威。
博得吉达酒吧在1942年刚开业的时候只是一间小型综合商店，由店主安赫尔·马丁内斯经营。到1946年，他意识到这个地方更像是一个人们喜欢聚集的地方。于是，百货店慢慢转变成饭店和酒吧，很快就吸引了众多学生、音乐家和波希米亚人在此聚集。
多年来，这个酒吧越来越受欢迎。近年它已成为哈瓦那最受欢迎的旅游点之一。每天，世界各地的人来到这里，每个人都希望分享历史，品尝一杯“莫吉托”鸡尾酒（该酒吧特饮），并把自己的名字签在墙上。
把名字乱画在酒吧墙壁上的传统源于何时何故，现在已不得而知。有人说是海明威首先这么做的。起初，这很可能只是一种把消息留给朋友的方法，但它从此就在这里生根了。不管什么原因，现在每个人都这么做。
我曾四次在墙上签名，但没有一次能找到上次签名的地方。当然，墙上最著名的签名属于欧内斯特·海明威。博得吉达酒吧是他最喜欢去的地方之一。
酒吧后面是一间只有15张桌子的小餐馆，看上去实在很普通，然而它其实是一个五星级场所，并赢得过多个奖项。这里永远都有一条等着用餐的长队，所以你得做好耐心等待的准备。不过，以古巴和克里奥耳风味为主的菜式的确值得一等。
到博得吉达的最佳时间是等到天黑游客散去以后。这时要在餐馆找到位置还是要费点时间，而靠前的吧台则相对比较安静。你可以一边安静地啜饮你的莫吉托，一边欣赏满墙的照片和签名。尽管随意把你的名字添上，签名是这里的传统。你甚至还可以叫调酒师给你表演如何调配莫吉托，就像“老爹”喜欢的那样。
注1-2：皆为西班牙语。
注3：纳特·金·科尔（1919-1965），美国抒情歌王。
注4：克里奥耳人是出生于拉丁美洲的白人或美国南部法国移民的后裔。
“老爹”是海明威有名的绰号。他一生中超过三分之一的时间是在古巴首都哈瓦那度过的，其作品《老人与海》、《丧钟为谁而鸣》就在该地完成。他曾经这样描述古巴：“我热爱这个国家，感觉像在家里一样。一个使人感觉像家一样的地方，除了出生的故乡，就是命运归宿的地方。”
哈瓦那有很多著名的酒吧，其中很多是海明威生前常去的，如博得吉达酒吧（又译“五分钱小酒店”）、小佛罗里达餐馆等。博得吉达酒吧最有名的酒是一种用朗姆酒加薄荷叶和柠檬调配的鸡尾酒，叫“莫希托”。这家酒吧至今还保留着海明威的手迹：“我的莫希托在博得吉达酒吧，我的达伊基里（另一种鸡尾酒）在小佛罗里达餐馆。”
On a small side street just west of the Plaza de Cathedral注1 is the most famous bar in all of Havana, the Bodeguita del Medio注2. At first glance, this tiny bar doesn’t appear to be much. The furnishings[室内陈设品] are worn, and the walls appear to be covered in graffiti[涂鸦].
A closer look at this graffiti shows you one of the reasons why this place is so famous. The walls are covered with signatures and comments[意见] from past patrons[老顾客]. The names on the wall include Nat King Cole注3, Fidel Castro and the man most associated[联想到] with the place, Ernest Hemingway.
The Bodeguita started as a small general store in 1942, owned and operated by Angel Martinez. By 1946, he realized that the place was becoming more of a popular hangout[经常去的地方], and it slowly converted[使转变]
into a restaurant and bar. It soon drew[吸引] hundreds of students, musicians and bohemians.
Over the years the popularity of the place grew. In recent years, it has become one of the most popular tourist draws in Havana. Each day, people from all over the world would arrive here. Each of them is hoping to share in the history, enjoy a mojito (the house special), and add their names to the wall.
It is not quite clear when or how the idea of scrawling[潦草书写] names on the wall began. Some say Hemingway started it. More than likely it started as a way of
leaving messages for friends, and it just grew from there. For whatever reason, everyone now does it.
I’ve signed it on four different occasions and am never able to find where I did the last time. The most famous signature on the walls, of course, belongs to
Ernest Hemingway. The Bodeguita was one of his
favourite haunts[常去的地方].
The tiny restaurant with only 15 tables to the rear of the bar may seem common, but it is actually a five-star establishment[商业机构] and winner of many awards. There is always a line up to eat here, so prepare to be patient. The menu of Cuban and Creole注4 dishes, however, is well worth the wait.
The best time to visit is in the evening after the
tourists have left. While it is still hard to get a table in the restaurant, the front bar is relatively[相对地] quiet. You can sip your mojito in peace and examine the
photos and signatures that cover the walls. Feel free to add your own. It’s
a tradition. You can even ask one of the
bartenders[调酒师]
to show you how to make a mojito, just like “Papa” liked them.
哈瓦那最出名的博得吉达酒吧位于教堂广场西面的小巷子里。乍看之下，这家小小的酒吧并不怎么吸引人。里面的家具老旧，墙上尽是涂鸦。
但只要仔细看看这些涂鸦，你就会发现这个小地方如此闻名的其中一个原因。酒吧的墙壁上写满了以往老顾客的签名和评价，其中包括纳特·金·科尔、菲德
尔·卡斯特罗，还有与这个地方渊源最深的人——欧内斯特·海明威。
博得吉达酒吧在1942年刚开业的时候只是一间小型综合商店，由店主安赫尔·马丁内斯经营。到1946年，他意识到这个地方更像是一个人们喜欢聚集的地方。于是，百货店慢慢转变成饭店和酒吧，很快就吸引了众多学生、音乐家和波希米亚人在此聚集。
多年来，这个酒吧越来越受欢迎。近年它已成为哈瓦那最受欢迎的旅游点之一。每天，世界各地的人来到这里，每个人都希望分享历史，品尝一杯“莫吉托”鸡尾酒（该酒吧特饮），并把自己的名字签在墙上。
把名字乱画在酒吧墙壁上的传统源于何时何故，现在已不得而知。有人说是海明威首先这么做的。起初，这很可能只是一种把消息留给朋友的方法，但它从此就在这里生根了。不管什么原因，现在每个人都这么做。
我曾四次在墙上签名，但没有一次能找到上次签名的地方。当然，墙上最著名的签名属于欧内斯特·海明威。博得吉达酒吧是他最喜欢去的地方之一。
酒吧后面是一间只有15张桌子的小餐馆，看上去实在很普通，然而它其实是一个五星级场所，并赢得过多个奖项。这里永远都有一条等着用餐的长队，所以你得做好耐心等待的准备。不过，以古巴和克里奥耳风味为主的菜式的确值得一等。
到博得吉达的最佳时间是等到天黑游客散去以后。这时要在餐馆找到位置还是要费点时间，而靠前的吧台则相对比较安静。你可以一边安静地啜饮你的莫吉托，一边欣赏满墙的照片和签名。尽管随意把你的名字添上，签名是这里的传统。你甚至还可以叫调酒师给你表演如何调配莫吉托，就像“老爹”喜欢的那样。
注1-2：皆为西班牙语。
注3：纳特·金·科尔（1919-1965），美国抒情歌王。
注4：克里奥耳人是出生于拉丁美洲的白人或美国南部法国移民的后裔。