过去对菜肴口味的提法离不开“浓、重、大”三字。所谓“浓”,如四川菜、上海菜乃味浓,淮扬菜乃“浓而不腻”;所谓“重”,如四川菜、上海菜的“油重、糖重”;所谓“大”,如上海菜、淮扬菜的“油大、油水足、味道好”。因为当时饮食较单调,基本上是大鱼大肉、大汤带水,所以以调味料遮盖原料的本味。现在饮食方面丰富多彩,要求在原料本味上做文章,味的演变趋势可以称之为流行味。 一、从“味浓、糖重、油大”转变为清淡(即低糖、低脂肪、低盐),避免传统菜肴的油、糖、盐过多。荷包鲫鱼、红烧黄鱼等红烧菜必须放糖,但烹制海鲜时,就比河鲜少放些糖。松鼠桂鱼,存勾糖醋卤汁(加番茄酱)时,过去用沸油100克,现改为50克, In the past the formulation of the dishes can not be inseparable from the “strong, heavy, large” words. The so-called “thick”, such as Sichuan cuisine, Shanghai cuisine is rich, Huaiyang cuisine is “thick but not greasy”; so-called “heavy”, such as Sichuan cuisine, Shanghai cuisine “oil weight, sugar weight”; the so-called “big” Shanghai cuisine, Huaiyang cuisine “oil big enough water and oil, taste good.” Because at that time the diet was more monotonous, basically big fish, soup with water, so the seasoning to cover the flavor of raw materials. Diet is now rich and varied, requiring raw material to make a fuss about this flavor, the evolution of taste can be called the popular taste. First, from the “thick, heavy sugar, large oil” into light (ie, low sugar, low fat, low salt), to avoid the traditional dishes of oil, sugar, salt too much. Pork carp, braised yellow croaker and other braised vegetables must put sugar, but when cooking seafood, put less sugar than the river. Squirrel mandarin fish, stock of Treviso marinade (plus tomato sauce), the past with 100 grams of boiling oil, now changed to 50 grams,