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Of old was the age when Ymir lived，
Sea nor cool waves nor sand there were，
Earth had not been, nor heaven above，
But a yawning gap, and grass nowhere.
——The Eddas
那是布尔1始祖时的宇宙洪荒，
沉寂的海，
亦不知沙滩在何方，
天地混沌，寸草不长，
只有鸿沟千丈。
——冰岛史诗《埃达》
1.布尔：巨人始祖。诗歌中巨人布尔的儿子们开天辟地，创造出世界。
Reykjavik is a small town as cities go (popula－tion 130 000) on a desolate and barren, seem－ingly inhospitable hunk of lava in the middle of the frigid North Atlantic.
The sun, which never rose more than 45 de－grees above the northern horizon, cast the city in long shadows and a golden glow reminiscent of late morning in Southern California. Cloudless, bright blue skies and the stark outline of distant mountain ridges, as barren and imposing as the desert moun－tains of the Southland, enhanced the effect. At night the skies dazzle with constellations burning so bright they seem within reach; through the autumn and winter, the heavens dance in the light show of the aurora borealis. But seeing the northern lights is difficult within Reykjavik’s city limits because bright ground lights are kept burning through the long nights to keep the darkness at bay.
I begin my crawl across town, at the west end of the 101 district in Parliament Square, where Ice－land’s modest stone parliament building and a cozy Art Deco hotel, the Borg, face a green where on June 17 each year as many as 70 000 Icelanders con－gregate to celebrate their independence from the Danes. Across the square from the hotel is NASA, a midsize live music club where a band from New York, “The Bravery”—who play with the precision and drive of “The Strokes” but are much better dressed—are delighting a crowd that spills out the doors and into the street.
Up the street at Pravda, a rave scene is in full swing in a split-level dive bar where live bands play on the lower level and D.J.’s spin house and funk records upstairs. There’s something about Iceland that always draws you back. You have the mountains, the ocean, the wonders of the countryside; you see the Northern Lights, the shooting stars—and then, as an xtra bonus, you have all these great restaurants and clubs.
Back on Laugavegur, I pass the prime minister’s residence, a modest two-story building that has no fence around it and no security guards. “Iceland is the only country I know of where the RM.’s name is listed in the phone book,” says an Icelandic woman I meet.
The morning before, my cab driver had explained that Iceland’s reputation as “the other city that never sleeps” is due to the sun, which burns for 24 hours at mid－summer and shines dimly for four hours at Christmastime.
2000多万年前的欧洲、美洲大陆板块分离的时候，在北大西洋深处扯出一道裂缝，岩浆从裂缝中喷射而出，形成了冰岛——地球上最美的一道伤痕。
而作为冰岛首都的雷克雅未克更是别有一番风情。雷克雅未克始建于874年，1786年正式建城。1904年，丹麦承认冰岛内部自治，雷克雅未克成为自治政府所在地，1944年6月成为冰岛共和国首都。
作为一个城市，雷克雅未克是小城(人口13万)，位于寒冷的北大西洋中央一块荒凉贫瘠、似乎并不适宜居住的火山岩上。
太阳从不会升过北边地平线45度以上，因而总在这座城市投下长长的影子，金色的光辉让人想起南加州的近午时分。晴朗明亮的蓝天与远山山脊鲜明的轮廓，增强了它的效果。而山脊像南国沙漠中的群山一样荒芜而壮美。夜晚，苍穹群星闪烁，仿佛触手可及；秋冬季节，天空在北极光中翩翩起舞。不过，在雷克雅未克市区很难看到北极光，因为地面的灯光彻夜长明使得黑暗无处藏身。
我从101区西端的国会广场开始城市之旅。那里有朴素的冰岛石砌议会大厦和一座舒适的装饰派艺术风格的酒店——博格酒店，对面是一块公共绿地，每年6月1 7日有多达7万冰岛人会在那儿集会，庆祝他们脱离丹麦独立。从酒店穿过广场就是纳萨——一家中等规模的有乐队演出的酒吧。来自纽约的“布瑞弗瑞”乐队有着“敲击”乐队的准确与冲击力，不过穿着要好得多。他们令大批听众兴奋不已。听众多得挤到了门口外的大街上。
在普拉弗达大街，狂欢的景象在错层式的低档酒吧中达到高潮。乐队在底层演奏，主持人的唱片室和乡土爵士乐唱片在楼上。冰岛的独特魅力让人流连忘返。你能看到山脉、海洋和乡间的奇趣；你可以看到北极光，流星。另外，还有额外的收获，就是这些很棒的餐厅和酒吧。
回来走在劳加维格街上，我经过首相官邸——一座朴素的二层建筑，周围没有围墙，也没有保安。“冰岛是我所知道的惟一一个把首相的名字列在电话簿上的国家。”我遇到的一位冰岛妇女说。
前一天早上．我的出租车司机解释说冰岛“不夜城”之名应归功于太阳，仲夏时节的太阳24小时不落，而圣诞节期间，太阳只朦胧地照耀四个小时。
魔魔果 摘自Traveling
Sea nor cool waves nor sand there were，
Earth had not been, nor heaven above，
But a yawning gap, and grass nowhere.
——The Eddas
那是布尔1始祖时的宇宙洪荒，
沉寂的海，
亦不知沙滩在何方，
天地混沌，寸草不长，
只有鸿沟千丈。
——冰岛史诗《埃达》
1.布尔：巨人始祖。诗歌中巨人布尔的儿子们开天辟地，创造出世界。
Reykjavik is a small town as cities go (popula－tion 130 000) on a desolate and barren, seem－ingly inhospitable hunk of lava in the middle of the frigid North Atlantic.
The sun, which never rose more than 45 de－grees above the northern horizon, cast the city in long shadows and a golden glow reminiscent of late morning in Southern California. Cloudless, bright blue skies and the stark outline of distant mountain ridges, as barren and imposing as the desert moun－tains of the Southland, enhanced the effect. At night the skies dazzle with constellations burning so bright they seem within reach; through the autumn and winter, the heavens dance in the light show of the aurora borealis. But seeing the northern lights is difficult within Reykjavik’s city limits because bright ground lights are kept burning through the long nights to keep the darkness at bay.
I begin my crawl across town, at the west end of the 101 district in Parliament Square, where Ice－land’s modest stone parliament building and a cozy Art Deco hotel, the Borg, face a green where on June 17 each year as many as 70 000 Icelanders con－gregate to celebrate their independence from the Danes. Across the square from the hotel is NASA, a midsize live music club where a band from New York, “The Bravery”—who play with the precision and drive of “The Strokes” but are much better dressed—are delighting a crowd that spills out the doors and into the street.
Up the street at Pravda, a rave scene is in full swing in a split-level dive bar where live bands play on the lower level and D.J.’s spin house and funk records upstairs. There’s something about Iceland that always draws you back. You have the mountains, the ocean, the wonders of the countryside; you see the Northern Lights, the shooting stars—and then, as an xtra bonus, you have all these great restaurants and clubs.
Back on Laugavegur, I pass the prime minister’s residence, a modest two-story building that has no fence around it and no security guards. “Iceland is the only country I know of where the RM.’s name is listed in the phone book,” says an Icelandic woman I meet.
The morning before, my cab driver had explained that Iceland’s reputation as “the other city that never sleeps” is due to the sun, which burns for 24 hours at mid－summer and shines dimly for four hours at Christmastime.
2000多万年前的欧洲、美洲大陆板块分离的时候，在北大西洋深处扯出一道裂缝，岩浆从裂缝中喷射而出，形成了冰岛——地球上最美的一道伤痕。
而作为冰岛首都的雷克雅未克更是别有一番风情。雷克雅未克始建于874年，1786年正式建城。1904年，丹麦承认冰岛内部自治，雷克雅未克成为自治政府所在地，1944年6月成为冰岛共和国首都。
作为一个城市，雷克雅未克是小城(人口13万)，位于寒冷的北大西洋中央一块荒凉贫瘠、似乎并不适宜居住的火山岩上。
太阳从不会升过北边地平线45度以上，因而总在这座城市投下长长的影子，金色的光辉让人想起南加州的近午时分。晴朗明亮的蓝天与远山山脊鲜明的轮廓，增强了它的效果。而山脊像南国沙漠中的群山一样荒芜而壮美。夜晚，苍穹群星闪烁，仿佛触手可及；秋冬季节，天空在北极光中翩翩起舞。不过，在雷克雅未克市区很难看到北极光，因为地面的灯光彻夜长明使得黑暗无处藏身。
我从101区西端的国会广场开始城市之旅。那里有朴素的冰岛石砌议会大厦和一座舒适的装饰派艺术风格的酒店——博格酒店，对面是一块公共绿地，每年6月1 7日有多达7万冰岛人会在那儿集会，庆祝他们脱离丹麦独立。从酒店穿过广场就是纳萨——一家中等规模的有乐队演出的酒吧。来自纽约的“布瑞弗瑞”乐队有着“敲击”乐队的准确与冲击力，不过穿着要好得多。他们令大批听众兴奋不已。听众多得挤到了门口外的大街上。
在普拉弗达大街，狂欢的景象在错层式的低档酒吧中达到高潮。乐队在底层演奏，主持人的唱片室和乡土爵士乐唱片在楼上。冰岛的独特魅力让人流连忘返。你能看到山脉、海洋和乡间的奇趣；你可以看到北极光，流星。另外，还有额外的收获，就是这些很棒的餐厅和酒吧。
回来走在劳加维格街上，我经过首相官邸——一座朴素的二层建筑，周围没有围墙，也没有保安。“冰岛是我所知道的惟一一个把首相的名字列在电话簿上的国家。”我遇到的一位冰岛妇女说。
前一天早上．我的出租车司机解释说冰岛“不夜城”之名应归功于太阳，仲夏时节的太阳24小时不落，而圣诞节期间，太阳只朦胧地照耀四个小时。
魔魔果 摘自Traveling