寂静之港:奥斯提亚·安提卡

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  Ostia Antica was Rome’s port two millennia1ago, but no history-changing event happened there. What you see is the size and scope of an entire Roman city, a mini-Pompeii with a less dramatic ending. But that is it: apart from a bookshop, a cafe and a little museum, it is weeds, walls and mosaics, marble columns and a few ancient dogs.
  You can get there by train in less than half an hour from central Rome. But I would recommend2 taking the boat, which costs less than many taxi rides, and then pushing on to the sea. After two quiet, breezy hours, the boat would arrive at Ostia Antica. Once there, there is no one treasure to hunt down, so hyperactive 3tourists can slow their brains down for a few hours: Ostia is a place where one can wander leisurely4, with the imagination wide open.
  And so today visitors can walk over an entire Roman city, from the baths to the amphitheater5, to huge warehouses for grains and goods, a basilica6, a synagogue7, and a temple to the Roman gods. Unlike Pompeii, which died a quick and hot death, Ostia petered out like the Roman empire itself, with its inhabitants slowly trickling out until about the ninth century. After that, Ostia---- like the old Forum in Rome ---- became a quarry, with its marble going to build newer churches in Pisa, Florence and Orvieto. Until the early 19th century, it was also a place where pretty much anyone could drop by and take whatever antiquity8 caught the eye.
  The museum, which is a few steps away from the cafe and the bookshop, holds most of the remaining treasures, and is worth a look. But there is still much to rove9 over on the ground, the most interesting dealing with daily life.
  More traditional, but a must on the trip, is the well-preserved amphitheatre, built in 12 B.C. Do not miss the mosaics ---- many of them, fittingly, depict ships and fish ---- at the Baths of Neptune; the rows of warehouses to feel the scale of Ostia’s commercial reach; or the tumbledown necropolis10 at the far east.
  You can even go swimming on a gravelly11 beach there. But the main pleasure, as the breeze lifts and the sun goes down over the sea, is to join in on the walking, which like many things in Italy, has been going on for a very long time.
  
  两千多年前,奥斯提亚·安提卡曾是罗马的古港,如今,那里也没有发生过惊天动地的历史事件。你看到的是古罗马曾经的辉煌,一个未曾遭到彻底毁灭的缩小版庞培古城。这里不仅有书店,咖啡厅和博物馆,还有荒芜的草地,马赛克拼贴的墙壁,大理石柱以及一些古老的狗的雕像。
  从罗马中心到这里,乘坐火车的话不到半小时。不过我个人认为,还是坐船更好些,而且费用也比坐出租车便宜很多,小船会一直送你到海边。经过了两小时微风轻拂的安静旅程,船就到达了奥斯提亚·安提卡。那里并没有什么令人眼睛一亮的风景,兴奋的游客们完全可以在接下来的时间里充分放松大脑。在这里,你可以惬意地闲逛,驰骋你的想象力。
  今天,游客可以逛遍这个罗马小城,从浴室到古角斗场,从巨大的谷仓到基督教堂,犹太人会所,再到罗马神庙。与庞培不同的是,那里由于突如其来的火山爆发而湮灭,这里则是如同罗马帝国一样逐渐凋敝。9世纪以前,这里的居民一直在减少。自那以后,奥斯提亚如同罗马的古老广场一样,成为一个采石场,人们从这里运出大理石去建造位于比萨,佛罗伦萨和奥维多的教堂。直到19世纪早期,依然有很多人到这里随便拿走他们看中的古老遗物。
  博物馆离咖啡厅和书店只有几步之遥,那里保存着大部分剩余的财宝,值得一看。不过更有趣的还是徘徊街头,体味这里的日常生活。
  在整个行程中不能或缺的,也是更为传统的,就是建造于公元前12世纪的圆形剧场,至今还保存完好。此外别错过这里镶嵌整齐的马赛克图案,其中很多图案描述了人们如何航海捕鱼,与大海抗争的场景。也别错过参观这里一行连着一行的仓库,由此我们可以想象出奥斯提亚的商业化程度。还可以看看城东远郊因年代久远而摇摇欲坠的大墓地。
  你可以在这里的碎石海滩上游泳,可是更惬意的是当微风吹起,夕阳西下的时候漫步海边。好比意大利的许多东西一样,可以让你享受到永远。
  
  

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