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Madagascar—Cocktails on the Beach and1)Camping with 2)Lemurs
Madagascar, the world's fourth-largest island lies in the Indian Ocean off the southeast coast of Africa opposite Mozambique.
Whether in the lap of tropical luxury or the most basic rainforest camp, you will be absolutely charmed by Madagascar' astonishing beauty.
Madagascar is an island of huge variety and not a few extremes: from the 3)tropical rainforests of the north east, where rain and sun 4)splice the day at 5)regular intervals, to the dry baking heat of the west and southwest coast, to the cooler central highlands, where winter can 6)take root with freezing rain and biting cold.
Given the wildly different textures of climate and landscape, you would be well advised to sit down with a guidebook before deciding which bits of this beautiful country to 7)sample. And it’s not only beautiful: the country’s8)isolation, for millions of years, helped to spark and then protect an explosion of unique 9)vegetation and wildlife. When the current president 10)tripled the amount of protected land on the island in 2005, 11)WWF described it as a ‘gift to the Earth’.
12)Nestling in a 13)stretch of protected dry 14)deciduous forest on the north west coast, Anjajavy is virtually unreachable by road; instead, we pick up a seven-seater plane from Tana airport, the 90-minute flight ending in a 15)glorious 16)descent as the pilot 17)arcs over the small 18)peninsula that houses Anjajavy. Half a dozen white sand beaches ring the tiny coastline and around one of these sits the two dozen or so wooden 19)villas of the resort. The plane 20)swoops over the hotel and swings round to land 21)bumpily on a tiny 22)strip of red earth. On one side of the landing strip a 23)cluster of small children gather to stare at tourists from another world.
A10-minute trip in a 4x4 brings you to the hotel. On arrival it’s as if you’ve walked straight into the pages of Conde Nast Traveller—24)infinity pool, palm trees, beautifully appointed villas and a small army of workers dressed in brilliant white 25)linen cleaning the decks or brushing the lawn. The delightful timber-framed main house leads to an outside 26)terrace and a lawn 27)fringed with flowers and palm trees. Just beyond it, the 28)Mozambique Channel sparkles. Each villa has a deck with an inviting 29)hammock facing the sea.
You could do worse than lie there listening to the waves and the birdsong and watching the 30)frisky lemurs dance among the trees, but there are 31)myriad pursuits for those who eventually choose to leave the comfort of the hammock: walks and bike rides through the forest to spot any number of different species (32)hummingbirds, lemurs, 33)malachite 34)kingfishers)>; diving and 35)snorkelling; and deep-sea fishing for 36)marlin and 37)tuna.
A less 38)strenuous 39)option is to take a sunset cruise among the 40)mangroves. Setting off in late afternoon, the hotel boat 41)waltzes around the forest—flooded now at high tide. Huge birds with 42)exotic-sounding names and even more exotic-looking beaks perch 43)imperiously on the highest trees, casting a 44)desultory eye over the forest below. But easily the most magical moment is when the boatman cuts the engine: the world appears to come to a standstill. Any trace of sound is 45)absorbed by the 46)swampy mangroves; apart from the occasional call of the birds, there is nothing. 47)Savour this, the quietest, stillest and calmest few moments possible. It is impossibly beautiful—and the 48)rum cocktails consumed 49)en route help a little too.
Another must-do trip is to take the hotel boat to Morumba Bay, skirting along the Anjajavy peninsula and passing a scattering of 50)makeshift fishing villages perched on the sand just yards from the ocean. As you pass endless isolated white beaches, beautiful coves and tiny 51)craggy islands, the only obvious living being is a Madagascar eagle resting in one of the 52)majestic 53)baobab trees that are dotted along the coastline.
The boat will leave you for the afternoon in the 54)castaway-like cove of Morumba. After a few blissful hours of snorkelling and swimming, you’ll be ready to tuck into your packed lunch of sandwiches, a cool beer and some fresh fruit. This treasure of a beach is surrounded by the forest, which 55)tumbles down almost into the sea. It’s simple and 56)idyllic.
And you really should not leave Anjajavy without visiting the little village across the sea from the hotel that is home to 200 people. There are no 57)concessions to tourists: it’s basic and 58)lived-in, with a school, a tiny six-bed hospital and wooden huts built yards from the sea. There are fish drying outside the huts, pots cooking rice and a tiny sign that indicates a bar—really just a room scattered with 59)crates of beer.
As we leave Anjajavy, we are 60)gripped by one of the most 61)invigorating and 62)spontaneous events of the holiday. A violent tropical storm visits our little six-seater boat without warning and within minutes we are being tossed about and sprayed with massive waves. The boat doesn’t quite rise vertically in the water, but it gets close. There is much dramatic squealing as waves of water hit the deck and we cling for dear life to the rails.
Once the initial fear subsides it is 63)magnificent and 64)exhilarating fun. Much like Madagascar, in fact.
马达加斯加，一个万象纷呈、季节对比鲜明的岛国：东北部的热带雨林每天有规律地晴雨交替，位于小岛西面和西南面的海岸则炙热干燥，而中部高原较为凉爽，有明显的冬天，不乏刺骨的冷雨寒风。
小岛各地的气候地貌如此迥异多姿，大家会建议你拿本旅游指南坐下来好好研究，看看自己要挑选这美丽国度的哪一部分来体验。小岛不仅以优美的风光为人称道：数百万年来，小岛与世隔绝，众多独特的野生动植物扎根、成长于此，不受外界的破坏。马达加斯加现任总统于2005年宣布，将岛内自然保护区的面积增大至原来的三倍，世界自然基金会赞此举为“赠与大自然的礼物”。
气候干燥的西北海岸有一大片受保护的落叶林，依偎在旁的是安加加维，一个陆路无法通往的小镇。于是我们从塔纳机场乘坐七座飞机，九十分钟的航程后，飞机在细小的安加加维半岛上空盘旋，准备威风降落。这地方小小的海岸线由六个白沙滩环绕，其中一个沙滩旁是度假酒店的二三十栋木造别墅。飞机飞过酒店，回旋降落在小型的红土跑道上，着陆滑行颇为颠簸。跑道旁聚集起一群小孩盯着看那些来自另一世界的游客。
我们乘四驱车十分钟就到达了酒店。一下车，我们感觉像走进了《康泰纳仕旅行家杂志》（美国著名的权威旅游杂志）的画页中——水天一色的无边际泳池、棕榈树、装饰雅致的别墅，以及一批身穿亮白麻布制服的酒店员工，他们正在打扫露台、整理草地。木结构的别墅外就是露台和一片青草地，草地周围点缀着鲜花和棕榈树。再往外眺望，莫桑比克海峡在阳光下泛着粼粼波光。每栋别墅有独立的架空露台，面向大海架着诱人的吊床。
躺在那儿听浪涛，赏鸟鸣，看窜动树间的狐猴，已是极至的享受，而选择远不止这些，离开吊床的舒适温柔乡，还有无限乐趣等你追寻：徒步或骑自行车穿越森林，寻找各物种的踪影（蜂鸟、狐猴、孔雀石、翠鸟）；深潜、浮潜；潜入深海捕捉枪鱼和金枪鱼。
想休闲一点，可参加红树林日落游船之旅。酒店的游船在黄昏出发，绕着涨潮后的红树林悠然前行。林中的巨鸟，名字听起来就充满异国情调，鸟喙的样子更是奇异独特，它们趾高气扬地立在最高的枝头上，漫不经心地往身下的红树林张望。但无疑，最奇妙的还是船夫关掉引擎的那一刻：整个世界好像就此停顿下来。连一丝声响都被红树林湿地吸收掉，除了偶尔的鸟叫声，只剩一片寂静。细细品味这一切吧，世间难得的至静至止至宁。此情此景美得恍如仙境—在船上喝的朗姆鸡尾酒也许起了点作用。
另一个不容错过的行程就是乘酒店的游船到莫伦巴湾，沿安加加维半岛游览，途经几个距海仅十几英尺（十英尺约等于三米）、在沙滩上分散建起的临时小渔村。船经过一个又一个与世隔绝的白沙滩、幽美的小湾、崎岖的小岛屿，沿岸长着许多猴面包树，而唯一可见的动物是一只马达加斯加雄鹰，歇息在一棵魁梧的猴面包树上。
游船会把你留在莫伦巴湾有如荒岛的小滩上度过下午。你可以幸福地浮潜畅泳上几个小时，然后享用自带的午餐—三文治、冰冻啤酒、新鲜水果。这宝藏般的海滩三面为森林环绕，林子几乎舒展延伸至大海。一切是那么的简单，充满诗意。
到安加加维，不能不到酒店对面越海的小村庄一游，这个小村庄居住着两百人。那里没有什么游客专区：住宿条件简陋，只能在民居借宿，村子里有一所学校、一间只有六张病床的小医院、临海仅几十尺的木屋群。木屋外晾晒着鱼干，也有正烧饭的锅，还有个小小的标牌，表明那是一家酒吧——其实只不过是一间摆着一箱箱啤酒的贮藏室罢了。
将离开安加加维之际，我们遇到了假期中最刺激最意想不到的事。在毫无先兆的情况下，威力强大的热带风暴向我们乘坐的六人游船袭来，不过几分钟，我们已被风浪抛得东倒西歪，巨浪直向我们喷涌。船身几乎给风浪抛至直立。海浪拍打着甲板，夸张尖叫不绝于耳，大家都死死抓住船栏以保小命。
起初的恐惧感一旦消退，一切便感觉壮美而乐趣无穷，就像马达加斯加这地方一样。
注释1
注释2
Madagascar—Cocktails on the Beach and1)Camping with 2)Lemurs
Madagascar, the world's fourth-largest island lies in the Indian Ocean off the southeast coast of Africa opposite Mozambique.
Whether in the lap of tropical luxury or the most basic rainforest camp, you will be absolutely charmed by Madagascar' astonishing beauty.
Madagascar is an island of huge variety and not a few extremes: from the 3)tropical rainforests of the north east, where rain and sun 4)splice the day at 5)regular intervals, to the dry baking heat of the west and southwest coast, to the cooler central highlands, where winter can 6)take root with freezing rain and biting cold.
Given the wildly different textures of climate and landscape, you would be well advised to sit down with a guidebook before deciding which bits of this beautiful country to 7)sample. And it’s not only beautiful: the country’s8)isolation, for millions of years, helped to spark and then protect an explosion of unique 9)vegetation and wildlife. When the current president 10)tripled the amount of protected land on the island in 2005, 11)WWF described it as a ‘gift to the Earth’.
12)Nestling in a 13)stretch of protected dry 14)deciduous forest on the north west coast, Anjajavy is virtually unreachable by road; instead, we pick up a seven-seater plane from Tana airport, the 90-minute flight ending in a 15)glorious 16)descent as the pilot 17)arcs over the small 18)peninsula that houses Anjajavy. Half a dozen white sand beaches ring the tiny coastline and around one of these sits the two dozen or so wooden 19)villas of the resort. The plane 20)swoops over the hotel and swings round to land 21)bumpily on a tiny 22)strip of red earth. On one side of the landing strip a 23)cluster of small children gather to stare at tourists from another world.
A10-minute trip in a 4x4 brings you to the hotel. On arrival it’s as if you’ve walked straight into the pages of Conde Nast Traveller—24)infinity pool, palm trees, beautifully appointed villas and a small army of workers dressed in brilliant white 25)linen cleaning the decks or brushing the lawn. The delightful timber-framed main house leads to an outside 26)terrace and a lawn 27)fringed with flowers and palm trees. Just beyond it, the 28)Mozambique Channel sparkles. Each villa has a deck with an inviting 29)hammock facing the sea.
You could do worse than lie there listening to the waves and the birdsong and watching the 30)frisky lemurs dance among the trees, but there are 31)myriad pursuits for those who eventually choose to leave the comfort of the hammock: walks and bike rides through the forest to spot any number of different species (32)hummingbirds, lemurs, 33)malachite 34)kingfishers)>; diving and 35)snorkelling; and deep-sea fishing for 36)marlin and 37)tuna.
A less 38)strenuous 39)option is to take a sunset cruise among the 40)mangroves. Setting off in late afternoon, the hotel boat 41)waltzes around the forest—flooded now at high tide. Huge birds with 42)exotic-sounding names and even more exotic-looking beaks perch 43)imperiously on the highest trees, casting a 44)desultory eye over the forest below. But easily the most magical moment is when the boatman cuts the engine: the world appears to come to a standstill. Any trace of sound is 45)absorbed by the 46)swampy mangroves; apart from the occasional call of the birds, there is nothing. 47)Savour this, the quietest, stillest and calmest few moments possible. It is impossibly beautiful—and the 48)rum cocktails consumed 49)en route help a little too.
Another must-do trip is to take the hotel boat to Morumba Bay, skirting along the Anjajavy peninsula and passing a scattering of 50)makeshift fishing villages perched on the sand just yards from the ocean. As you pass endless isolated white beaches, beautiful coves and tiny 51)craggy islands, the only obvious living being is a Madagascar eagle resting in one of the 52)majestic 53)baobab trees that are dotted along the coastline.
The boat will leave you for the afternoon in the 54)castaway-like cove of Morumba. After a few blissful hours of snorkelling and swimming, you’ll be ready to tuck into your packed lunch of sandwiches, a cool beer and some fresh fruit. This treasure of a beach is surrounded by the forest, which 55)tumbles down almost into the sea. It’s simple and 56)idyllic.
And you really should not leave Anjajavy without visiting the little village across the sea from the hotel that is home to 200 people. There are no 57)concessions to tourists: it’s basic and 58)lived-in, with a school, a tiny six-bed hospital and wooden huts built yards from the sea. There are fish drying outside the huts, pots cooking rice and a tiny sign that indicates a bar—really just a room scattered with 59)crates of beer.
As we leave Anjajavy, we are 60)gripped by one of the most 61)invigorating and 62)spontaneous events of the holiday. A violent tropical storm visits our little six-seater boat without warning and within minutes we are being tossed about and sprayed with massive waves. The boat doesn’t quite rise vertically in the water, but it gets close. There is much dramatic squealing as waves of water hit the deck and we cling for dear life to the rails.
Once the initial fear subsides it is 63)magnificent and 64)exhilarating fun. Much like Madagascar, in fact.
马达加斯加，一个万象纷呈、季节对比鲜明的岛国：东北部的热带雨林每天有规律地晴雨交替，位于小岛西面和西南面的海岸则炙热干燥，而中部高原较为凉爽，有明显的冬天，不乏刺骨的冷雨寒风。
小岛各地的气候地貌如此迥异多姿，大家会建议你拿本旅游指南坐下来好好研究，看看自己要挑选这美丽国度的哪一部分来体验。小岛不仅以优美的风光为人称道：数百万年来，小岛与世隔绝，众多独特的野生动植物扎根、成长于此，不受外界的破坏。马达加斯加现任总统于2005年宣布，将岛内自然保护区的面积增大至原来的三倍，世界自然基金会赞此举为“赠与大自然的礼物”。
气候干燥的西北海岸有一大片受保护的落叶林，依偎在旁的是安加加维，一个陆路无法通往的小镇。于是我们从塔纳机场乘坐七座飞机，九十分钟的航程后，飞机在细小的安加加维半岛上空盘旋，准备威风降落。这地方小小的海岸线由六个白沙滩环绕，其中一个沙滩旁是度假酒店的二三十栋木造别墅。飞机飞过酒店，回旋降落在小型的红土跑道上，着陆滑行颇为颠簸。跑道旁聚集起一群小孩盯着看那些来自另一世界的游客。
我们乘四驱车十分钟就到达了酒店。一下车，我们感觉像走进了《康泰纳仕旅行家杂志》（美国著名的权威旅游杂志）的画页中——水天一色的无边际泳池、棕榈树、装饰雅致的别墅，以及一批身穿亮白麻布制服的酒店员工，他们正在打扫露台、整理草地。木结构的别墅外就是露台和一片青草地，草地周围点缀着鲜花和棕榈树。再往外眺望，莫桑比克海峡在阳光下泛着粼粼波光。每栋别墅有独立的架空露台，面向大海架着诱人的吊床。
躺在那儿听浪涛，赏鸟鸣，看窜动树间的狐猴，已是极至的享受，而选择远不止这些，离开吊床的舒适温柔乡，还有无限乐趣等你追寻：徒步或骑自行车穿越森林，寻找各物种的踪影（蜂鸟、狐猴、孔雀石、翠鸟）；深潜、浮潜；潜入深海捕捉枪鱼和金枪鱼。
想休闲一点，可参加红树林日落游船之旅。酒店的游船在黄昏出发，绕着涨潮后的红树林悠然前行。林中的巨鸟，名字听起来就充满异国情调，鸟喙的样子更是奇异独特，它们趾高气扬地立在最高的枝头上，漫不经心地往身下的红树林张望。但无疑，最奇妙的还是船夫关掉引擎的那一刻：整个世界好像就此停顿下来。连一丝声响都被红树林湿地吸收掉，除了偶尔的鸟叫声，只剩一片寂静。细细品味这一切吧，世间难得的至静至止至宁。此情此景美得恍如仙境—在船上喝的朗姆鸡尾酒也许起了点作用。
另一个不容错过的行程就是乘酒店的游船到莫伦巴湾，沿安加加维半岛游览，途经几个距海仅十几英尺（十英尺约等于三米）、在沙滩上分散建起的临时小渔村。船经过一个又一个与世隔绝的白沙滩、幽美的小湾、崎岖的小岛屿，沿岸长着许多猴面包树，而唯一可见的动物是一只马达加斯加雄鹰，歇息在一棵魁梧的猴面包树上。
游船会把你留在莫伦巴湾有如荒岛的小滩上度过下午。你可以幸福地浮潜畅泳上几个小时，然后享用自带的午餐—三文治、冰冻啤酒、新鲜水果。这宝藏般的海滩三面为森林环绕，林子几乎舒展延伸至大海。一切是那么的简单，充满诗意。
到安加加维，不能不到酒店对面越海的小村庄一游，这个小村庄居住着两百人。那里没有什么游客专区：住宿条件简陋，只能在民居借宿，村子里有一所学校、一间只有六张病床的小医院、临海仅几十尺的木屋群。木屋外晾晒着鱼干，也有正烧饭的锅，还有个小小的标牌，表明那是一家酒吧——其实只不过是一间摆着一箱箱啤酒的贮藏室罢了。
将离开安加加维之际，我们遇到了假期中最刺激最意想不到的事。在毫无先兆的情况下，威力强大的热带风暴向我们乘坐的六人游船袭来，不过几分钟，我们已被风浪抛得东倒西歪，巨浪直向我们喷涌。船身几乎给风浪抛至直立。海浪拍打着甲板，夸张尖叫不绝于耳，大家都死死抓住船栏以保小命。
起初的恐惧感一旦消退，一切便感觉壮美而乐趣无穷，就像马达加斯加这地方一样。
注释1
注释2