超级时尚掌门人:安娜·温托与《Vogue》

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  翻译:菜菜
  She 1)wields considerable influence over the fashion industry, not just in America, but basically all over the world. 2)Runway shows don’t start until she arrives. Designers succeed because she likes them. Trends are created or 3)crippled on her command. With her sunglasses, slim build and perfect hairstyle and 4)wardrobe, the Editor-in-Chief of Vogue magazine, Anna Wintour, is the industry’s 5)ultimate icon.
  Despite her reputation for being icy and 6)inscrutable, Wintour didn’t get where she is without talent. She has a clear idea of what a fashion magazine should be about ?namely, fashion. Under her 7)predecessor, the fashion had been 8)subordinated to lifestyle. Wintour, by contrast, brought fashion to the fore. She began with a section on the latest trends, filled the middle of the magazine with 9)innovative spreads, and ended with a column on some aspect of style.
  Since taking over the magazine in 1988, Wintour has guarded its No. 1 status among fashion publications ?in both circulation and prestige. She has brought the magazine’s tone down from its Olympian heights, acknowledging that trends are as likely to start from the ground as be 10)decreed from on high, and offering tips on how to get runway looks for real-wage prices.
  In 2003, Lauren Weisberger, Wintour’s former assistant, authored the worldwide bestseller The Devil Wears Prada. It has been suggested that the setting (the fictional Runway fashion magazine) and the book’s 11)antagonist (Editor-in-Chief Miranda Priestly) were based on Vogue magazine and Wintour. In 2006, a film based on the book was released. Wintour, to most people’s surprise, attended the 12)premiere wearing 13)Prada!
  It is said that Wintour’s 14)aesthetic is too rigid. She kills stories if the subjects are not good-looking enough or demands that the subject transform her appearance. 15)Oprah Winfrey, for instance, had to drop 20 pounds before she was allowed to grace the cover; Hillary Clinton was once advised to abandon her navy blue suit image.
  However, Wintour is not the first fashion editor with rigid tendencies. The real question, of course, is whether Wintour’s 16)uncompromising style have served her magazine. The answer, quite simply, is yes. In a most competitive sea of fashion magazines, Vogue stands apart. The 17)voluminous fashion pages are arty, original, and 18)sophisticated. Most of us read Vogue not with the intention of buying some really fancy clothes, but because doing so educates our eye and 19)hones our taste, similar to the way eating 20)gourmet food 21)refines the 22)palate.
  她在时装界举足轻重,不单在美国,在全球都极具影响力。天桥走秀要等她到场才能开始。设计师要得到她的垂青才能成功。她说往东,潮流就不会往西。修长的身姿,无懈可击的发型和着装,配上一副墨镜,《Vogue》美国版主编安娜·温托是当之无愧的时尚产业终极偶像。
  尽管因冷酷严厉,让人琢磨不透的性格而声名远播,但如果温托没有自己独特的才能,她也不会有今天的地位。她对时尚杂志要做什么有清晰的认识—那就是要够时尚。杂志在前任主编手里时,时尚是生活方式的从属;而温托则让时尚走在最前面。她总是开篇就带来一个板块专门介绍最新潮流,杂志中有大量关于潮流新趋势的内容,在最后还有谈论风格的专栏。
  自1988年接手《Vogue》以来,温托成功守住杂志在时尚圈的地位,让杂志不管在发行量还是在声望上都稳居首位。她亲手把杂志那高不可攀的姿态降了下来,承认流行既可阳春白雪,也可下里巴人;她还给读者提供了小秘诀,教人怎么用自己的实际收入穿出天桥模特的感觉。
  2003年,温托的前助理劳伦·维斯贝格尔写出了全球畅销的小说《时尚女魔头》(又译作《穿Prada的女魔头》)。有人说故事背景(虚构的时尚杂志《天桥》)和书里的大反派(主编米兰达·普里斯特利)正影射了《Vogue》杂志和温托。2006年,改编自此书的电影发行了,让大多数人吃惊的是,温托居然穿着Prada出席了电影的首映礼!
  人们都说温托的审美观太苛刻。如果人物不够好看,她会毫不犹豫地将文章枪毙掉或者要求人物改变形象。名嘴奥普拉·温弗瑞要先减掉20磅才可以上杂志封面;希拉里·克林顿也曾被她要求脱下海军蓝套装,换个造型。
  然而,温托并不是第一个要求苛刻的时尚编辑。真正的问题是温托毫不妥协的作风是否适合杂志的需要—答案很简单:是。在竞争激烈的时尚杂志里,《Vogue》独树一帜。那包罗万象的时尚页面充满艺术气息,极富独创性又具备深度。大多数人读《Vogue》并不是真的为了去买一些昂贵高档的衣服,只是为了培养我们的眼睛去发现美,打磨我们的品位去体会美,如同美食能提高我们的味觉一样。
  


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