苏格兰洛蒙德湖:晴雨总相宜

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  Murky, mysterious, 4)unearthly! The view from our room was utterly captivating. A light rain was falling, creating a hazy 5)film over the landscape, and a mist hung heavily over the morning sky, like a lingering kiss from a dream. The stillness of the loch was broken only by the soft ripples made by ghostly geese, as they floated around. The first day of a long awaited romantic holiday at Loch Lomond had finally arrived and, even in the rain, I felt enchanted.
  
  Most of Scotland’s lakes lie in deep Highland valleys. Inland, freshwater Loch Lomond is Britain’ largest lake. It is 23 miles long and 5 miles at its widest point. The northern end of Loch Lomond is steep-sided, and very deep. But to the south the lake becomes broader, shallow, and is dotted with wooded islands.
  
  We visited the newly created Loch Lomond Shores National Park Gateway Center, which was just a 10-minute stroll from our hotel. Nestled into the most southernmost corner of the park, it has a position allowing for glorious views across the water, to 6)Ben Lomond—a 3,000-foot grey, rocky mountain, dominating the skyline.
  
  The Gateway Center was filled with plenty of things to do, including restaurants, outdoor-equipment shops, canoe and bike rentals, and even its own giant cinema screen, housed in Drumkinnon Tower. Designed by one of Scotland’s leading architects, David Page, the tall circular tower features a 40-minute film revealing the history of the famous song “On the bonny, bonny banks of Loch Lomond.” Immortalized by countless Scottish 7)bards, it may sound like a happy song at first. Yet, the story behind it is a heartbreaking one.
  
  Written at the time of the 1745 Scottish 8)Jacobite uprising, it tells the story of two Scottish bro-thers, who were captured by the English soldiers, and thrown into 9)Carlisle jail. One of the brothers was to be sentenced to death for his part in the revolt, while the other was to be released. The younger brother had a sweetheart from the area around Loch Lomond. But the elder had a family to take care of. And so, the younger one chose death.
  
  According to an old 10)Celtic belief, people who happen to die far away from their homeland, would return via an underground pass used by the spirits, and called 11)The Low Road.
  
  As luck would have it, the execution and release of the two prisoners were both scheduled for the same time. The freed man was allowed to go back home, taking the normal road, also known as 12)The High Road. His sibling, however, upon being exe-cuted, would be transported back to Loch Lomond instantly, and therefore, would arrive at home first.
  
  You’ll take the high road
  And I’ll take the low road
  And I’ll be in Scotland 13)afore14)ye
  
  But me and my true love will never meet again
  On the Bonny Bonny Banks of Loch Lomond.
  
  I’ll admit to shedding a tear or two, while my friend Ian, an outdoor enthusiast, found the majestic views filmed by helicopter over the loch far more impressive. The restaurant on the top floor of the tower 15)boasts 16)panoramic views, and we marveled at the sight, while spooning a hearty bowl of carrot and 17)coriander soup, to fortify us for the damp walk back to our hotel.
  
  Later, we were eager to explore the Scottish Hills, and the blue sky and warm sunshine of our third day provided a 18)stunning 19)backdrop to our picnic lunch at the top of nearby Conic Hill. It was recommended as a “cracking little climb” by the 20)concierge, who also arranged for us packed lunch, to be enjoyed at the peak.
  
  We reached the peak of this 1,100 foot hill after about an hour climb, and collapsed on a spot of 21)springy 22)heather to enjoy our lunch. Shaggy sheep dotted the vibrant green hillsides, their bleating calls echoing in the distance. Sunshine danced across the deep blue waters of the loch, as tiny sailboats swished along with the waves. Cruise ships meandered over to the forested islands, where tiny 23)hamlets of houses were clustered along the shore.
  
  I could see why we weren’t the only ones to become enchanted with this place. Loch Lomond had also bewitched Sir 24)Walter Scott, the famous author of Rob Roy and Lady of the Lake, who set both of his best-selling novels right here, on the banks of Loch Lomond.
  
  The natural beauty of Loch Lomond entrances you, whatever the weather. However, with an ave-rage of 250 days of rainfall each year, it’s more likely you’ll find rain than sunshine during your visit. Yet, although the sunshine provides it with a glorious setting, to experience the full mystery and romance of Loch Lomond, you also must see it as it shines in the rain.
  
  薄雾冥冥、神秘莫测、超凡脱俗!从我们房间看到的景色让人如痴如醉。当时天正下着微雨,给眼前的景致挂上了一层朦胧的纱。雾气笼罩着早上的天空,就像是梦中缠绵不去的长吻。只有像幽灵般在湖上漂浮的鹅泛起的微微涟漪,打破了湖面的平静。期盼已久的洛蒙德湖浪漫假期终于开始了。尽管是雨天,我还是被这景致迷住了。
  
  苏格兰的大部分湖泊都在高地的深谷里。洛蒙德湖这个内陆淡水湖是英国最大的湖泊。湖面长达23英里(约37公里),最宽处有5英里(约8公里)。湖的最北端非常峻峭,水也很深。而在湖的南边,湖面则较宽阔,湖水浅,树林覆盖的小岛星罗棋布。
  
  我们去了新建的洛蒙德湖湖畔国家公园出入中心,从我们的旅馆只需漫步10分钟就能到达那里。中心在公园的最南角,其所在地可以让你看到湖对面的洛蒙德峰的壮丽景色——这座灰色的石山有3000英尺高(约914米),高耸入云。
  
  出入中心给各种活动提供了便利,有餐厅、户外用品店、出租的独木舟和自行车,在德林姆金农塔里甚至还有巨大的银幕。这座圆形高塔由苏格兰一位顶尖的建筑师大卫·佩奇设计,里面放映的40分钟长的影片讲述了著名歌曲《在那美丽的,美丽的洛蒙德湖湖畔》的历史来由。这首歌词由于被数不尽的苏格兰诗人吟咏过而不朽。乍一听起来,它似乎是一首快乐的歌曲,但它背后的故事让人心碎。
  
  这首歌曲创作于1745年苏格兰的詹姆斯二世党人起义的时期,它讲述的是苏格兰一对兄弟的故事。兄弟俩被英格兰士兵捉获,被投入英格兰卡莱尔市的监狱。他们其中一人会因参与了起义而被处死,而另一个可获释(编者注:释放其中一个人是为了让他回去告诉其党羽企图叛乱的下场)。弟弟在洛蒙德湖畔有一位爱人,而哥哥则有一个需要照顾的家庭。于是,弟弟选择了赴死。
  
  凯尔特人有这样一种古老的信条:一个人如果死在遥远的异乡,他的灵魂就会通过一条地下通道回到家乡,这条通道叫“黄泉路”。
  


  幸运的是,兄弟俩的行刑和释放是在同一个时候。获释的人可以走正常的路,即“阳关道”回家。不过,他弟弟被处决以后会被立即送上回家的黄泉路(编者注:据上下文推断,这两兄弟的家在洛蒙德湖湖畔)。因此,他会先到家。
  
  你会走阳关道
  而我会走黄泉路
  我会比你先到苏格兰
  
  但我与爱人将永远无法再相见
  在那美丽的、美丽的洛蒙德湖畔
  
  我承认在看电影时流下了几滴眼泪,而我那热衷于户外活动的朋友伊恩觉得,电影中直升机从湖上空拍摄的宏伟画面更让人难忘。从塔楼顶层的餐厅可以看到湖的全貌。我们欣赏着眼前的景色,一口一口喝着营养丰富的胡萝卜芫荽汤,增加能量,准备待会在潮湿的空气中走回到我们的旅馆。
  
  后来,在假期的第三天,我们迫不及待地要去探察苏格兰群山。在邻近的康尼克山顶上,蓝蓝的天空,暖洋洋的阳光正好给我们提供了极好的野餐环境。旅馆的接待员向我们推荐了这里,并且说需要一次“让人体力透支的攀爬”才能抵达山顶,她还为我们准备好了丰盛的午餐,让我们在山顶享用。
  
  经过1个小时的攀登,我们到达了1100英尺(约335米)高的顶峰,接着就瘫坐在松软的石南上吃午餐。绒毛蓬松的绵羊点缀着生气勃勃的绿色山坡,羊的叫声在远处回响。阳光在深蓝色的湖面上跳跃,小帆船嗖嗖地破浪前进,游船向着树木密布的小岛蜿蜒前进,一个个小村落分布在小岛的岸边。
  
  我明白了为什么不仅仅是我们爱上了这个地方。写《罗伯·罗伊》和《湖上夫人》的著名作家沃尔特·司各特男爵也曾被洛蒙德湖深深迷住,他把这两部畅销小说的背景都设在洛蒙德湖畔。
  
  不论天气如何,洛蒙德湖的自然美景都会让你心醉神迷。不过,因为这里每年平均有250天下雨,当你游览时,遇到雨天的机会要比遇上晴天的机会大得多。然而,虽然在晴天会看到美不胜收的景色,但要体验洛蒙德湖的全部神秘感,感受其浪漫气息,你还得见识它在雨中的风姿。
  
  小资料
  Walter Scott(沃尔特·司各特)是英国著名作家,他于1771年8月15日出生于苏格兰爱丁堡,18个月时患小儿麻痹症,并因此致瘸,留下终身残疾。当兄弟姐妹们奔跑玩耍时,他开始如饥似渴地读书,12岁时进入爱丁堡大学念书。尽管他后来为了取悦父亲而学习法律,但是在空闲时间里,他开始写作,并在诗歌、民谣和散文方面取得了成功。司各特在43岁时开始写小说,一共写了30多部。最早的小说表现了作者对民族历史、民俗民情和下层人民生活的关注,也表现了他保守的封建地主立场。这些历史小说都取得了很大的成功,后人尊崇他为历史小说的鼻祖,世界上很多作家都受到他的影响。为了表彰司各特对英国文学作出的伟大贡献,英王乔治四世册封他为准男爵,并赐予他爵士称号。
  1817年出版的《罗伯·罗伊》是他描写苏格兰生活最杰出的作品之一。小说以支持斯图亚特王朝的雅各派1715年的暴动为背景,歌颂了罗伯·罗伊这个抗击英格兰压迫的苏格兰民族英雄。《湖上夫人》是一部长篇历史叙事诗。
  

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