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作为美国第一大设计师品牌，从服装、香水到家饰用品，卡尔文·克莱恩一直坚守着完美简约主义——他这种简洁而舒适、休闲又不失优雅气息的设计不仅受到了美国年轻人的欢迎，还将这种具国际化潜质的美式风格引入了时尚界。他是如何迈出成功的第一步？而盛名下的惊恐又是如何潜入他与家人的生活？
Man 1: Calvin Klein is probably the most famous American designer.
Liz Tilberis(Harper’s Bazaar, Editor-In-Chief): He’s really focused in on exactly what he’s very, very good at, which is pure simplicity.
Kelly Klein (ex-wife): Our relationship was very much about, you know, we were working together. He was 1)incredibly demanding, very difficult to please. You know, he works a lot.
Stuart Elliott(NY Times, columnist): He’s shown a very 2)savvy sense of being able to present an idealized image of people, and then sell it back at them.
Man 2: Calvin Klein has been in the forefront of using sexuality, and images of youth, being 3)provocative, and daring.
Bill Clinton: I just 4)came out of my shoes when I saw those teenagers depicted the way they were in those Calvin Klein ads. I thought it was wrong.
Step onto 5)7th Avenue
Calvin Klein was born to design. His roots are in the Mosholu Parkway section of the Bronx. From here a young man would rise to become one of America’s 6)pre-eminent designers, with a name and label known throughout the world.
From the age of five, he knew he wanted to design clothes. As a child he was very influenced by his mother’s love for “dressing up” and he remembers her as someone who “lived and died” for fashion.
In the early 60s, American designers as we know them today—as 7)high- profile celebrities—simply did not exist. Fashion designers were, above all, French, or maybe Italian.
The garment center in New York was ruled by rough talking and very traditional coat and suit 8)manufacturers. At the time manufacturers stole most of their designs from Paris; and Calvin, the expert sketcher, was sent to Paris to copy the latest clothes from the 9)runway.
But Calvin set out to change all that. He had ideas of his own. Back in New York he was inspired by the fresh and 10)unpreten-tious style of the young people in the streets. Pulling this 11)intangible quality out of the air and translating it into clothes would become the trademark of his success.
Barry Schwartz(CHMN & CEO of C.K.): All we did was work. We came in early in the morning; we showed the coats in the showroom; we took the orders; we processed them; we bought the fabric; we went to the factories. We did everything ourselves.
In these early work-12)obsessed years, Calvin wasn’t home much. By 1974, after ten years together, he and Jane (his first wife) divorced. The split was relatively amicable and they remain friends today. Jane got 13)custody of Marci, but Calvin and his daughter would remain very close.
Calvin was busier than ever. In 1973 he took the risky step of designing 14)sportswear for women.
Kal Ruttenstein(SR VP ofBloomingdales): I said to Barry, “Barry, you can’t let him do this. Why is he doing sportswear? He’s a coat designer.”
But Calvin saw his next great opportunity.
Man 3: American sportswear happened because it filled a need for American’s new lifestyle, for his leisure time, for his work time, and these clothes could bridge the gap.
And everyone loved Calvin’s sportswear, even at prices that ranged from $500 to $1,000. His 15)pricy but relaxed elegance won him respect within the fashion industry. It was finally happening. Calvin’s dreams had 16)catapulted him out of the Bronx and onto 7th Avenue.
Scare after 17)Publicity
Things could not have been going better. But on February 3rd, 1978, Calvin’s 18)glamorous world crashed.
Eleven-year-old Marci Klein had been 19)kidnapped. Calvin got a phone call demanding $100,000 for his daughter’s 20)whereabouts. He thought it was a 21)prank until the 22)abductors put Marci on the phone and she screamed for him.
Calvin: That was the most frightening experience that I’ve ever gone through, and I’m sure and our whole family.
At first the 23)FBI 24)interrogated Calvin, suspecting a publicity 25)stunt. Then, convinced that he was 26)innocent, they wired him for the money drop.
The kidnappers called Calvin on a pay phone, 27)disclosing Marci’s location. He ran to the building and banged on the apartment doors until he heard Marci scream his name. Calvin pushed open the door. Marci was alone and he untied her, and raced her to the street to safety.
Calvin: You don’t ever recover from something like that.
If America hadn’t known Calvin Klein’s name before, it certainly did now.
Coverage of the kidnapping and the 28)sentencing of the baby sitter plus two other abductors made headlines in all the major newspapers. Within a week after the incident, 200,000 pairs of Calvin Klein jeans flew out the stores.
And three months later Calvin Klein was on the cover of Newsweek Magazine.
Marci: I thought, “Who do they think my dad is that he is gonnacome up with this amount of money?” After it happened, when I really realized, “Oh! You know, he is famous and people know his name.”
The Calvin Klein 29)buzzwords: modern, clean, sexy, minimal, were evident everywhere from 30)couture to coffee cups. Calvin worked hard to make his products seem simple.
Stuart: I think history will judge Calvin Klein as one of the most successful 31)purveyors of consumer culture in the late 20th century.
男士甲：卡尔文·克莱恩大概是最有名气的美国设计师了。
莉斯·蒂尔伯瑞斯（《时尚芭莎》主编）：他真的对自己非常擅长的事物异常专注，那就是简约至极的设计风格。
凯利·克莱恩（前妻）：我们的关系很大程度上……你要知道，我们曾经一起工作过。他是那种非常苛求的人，很难取悦。你要知道，他工作很拼命。
斯图尔特·埃利奥特（《纽约时报》专栏作家）：他非常懂得如何向人们展示一个理想化的人物形象，然后再把这个形象卖回给那些人。
男士乙：卡尔文·克莱恩在使用性感元素和青春形象方面一直很前卫，很煽情，很大胆。
比尔·克林顿：当我看见那些青少年以那样的方式出现在卡尔文·克莱恩的广告中时，我大吃一惊。我觉得那是不对的。
走进第七大道
卡尔文·克莱恩天生就是做设计的。他在布朗克斯莫舒卢道一带长大，在这里，一个年轻人成为美国最优秀的设计师之一，他的名字和品牌举世闻名。
从五岁起他就知道自己想要设计服装。从小他就被妈妈对“打扮”的热情影响着，他记忆中的妈妈就是个铁杆时装迷。
在上世纪60年代初，美国设计师们不像我们现在所知道的那样闻名遐迩。时尚设计师们绝大多数都是来自法国，或是意大利。
掌控着纽约服装中心的曾是粗里粗气的、非常传统的服装制造商。那时候，制衣商大部分的设计都是抄袭巴黎的；当时，作为绘图师的卡尔文被派到巴黎，从天桥上复制最新的时装款式。
但是卡尔文决心改变这一切。他有自己的主张。回到纽约后，他从街上年轻人清新简朴的风格取得灵感。他把这些不可捉摸的特质从无形中剥离出来，用服装来演绎，最终成为他的成功标志。
巴里·施瓦茨(卡尔文·克莱恩品牌的董事长和首席执行官)：我们埋头工作。我们早早地来到办公室，在陈列室展示外衣，我们亲自接定单，亲自处理，亲自买布料，亲自去工厂。我们亲自做所有的工作。
在早年工作缠身的日子里，卡尔文很少在家。到1974年，大概是两人在一起10年之后，他和简（他的首任妻子）离婚了。两人和平分手，至今还是好朋友。简得到了女儿玛西的抚养权，但是卡尔文和他的女儿依然保持密切关系。
卡尔文比以前更忙了。1973年他冒险开始设计女装便服。
卡尔·鲁特斯坦 (Blooming-dales百货商场高级副经理)：我对巴里说：“巴里，你不能让他这么做。他怎么会要做便服？他可是一个外衣设计师啊。”
但是卡尔文看到了他的下一个重大的机遇。
男士丙：美国便服之所以出现是因为它填补了美国人对新生活方式的需求，休闲时可以穿，工作时可以穿，而这些服装缩小了休闲服和正装的差别。
尽管卡尔文设计的便服价格高达500美元到1000美元不等，但所有人都对之喜爱有加。价高却休闲的优雅风格，为他赢得了时尚界的尊重。最后，卡尔文终于梦想成真，从布朗克斯来到第七大道。
盛名下的惊恐
一切进展得再好不过了，但是在1978年的2月3日，卡尔文的美好世界崩塌了。
11岁的玛西·克莱恩被人绑架了。卡尔文接到了一通索要10万美元赎金以换取他女儿下落的电话。他原以为这是个恶作剧，直到诱拐者让玛西讲电话，卡尔文听到了她的呼救声。
卡尔文：那是我所遇到过的最恐怖的经历，相信我的家人也有同感。
首先联邦调查局盘问了卡尔文，怀疑这是个宣传伎俩。后来，他们确信他是清白的，便在卡尔文身上装了窃听器，让他去交赎金。
绑匪用公用电话致电卡尔文，告诉他玛西的藏身地。他跑到那幢大楼，逐家拍门，直到他听到玛西呼叫他的名字。卡尔文推开了门，里面只有玛西一人，他把她松绑后便带着她冲到街上。
卡尔文：你无法从那种事情的阴影中走出来。
如果说美国人以前并不知道卡尔文·克莱恩是谁，那么这次肯定知道了。
关于此次绑架事件，以及对临时保姆和另外两个诱拐者判决的报道，上了各大报刊的头条。出事后一周内，卡尔文·克莱恩牛仔裤大卖了20万条之多。
三个月之后，卡尔文·克莱恩上了《新闻周刊》的封面。
玛西：我想：“他们以为我爸是谁啊？他怎能拿出这么多钱？”但是这事发生后我才真正认识到，“哦，你知道吗，他是名人，人们都认识他。”
从服装设计到咖啡杯，每个细微之处都体现了卡尔文·克莱恩的口号：现代、利落、性感、精简。卡尔文致力使他的产品看起来简洁。
斯图尔特：我想历史会把卡尔文·克莱恩评定为20世纪末最成功的消费者文化传播者之一。
翻译：惠然
Man 1: Calvin Klein is probably the most famous American designer.
Liz Tilberis(Harper’s Bazaar, Editor-In-Chief): He’s really focused in on exactly what he’s very, very good at, which is pure simplicity.
Kelly Klein (ex-wife): Our relationship was very much about, you know, we were working together. He was 1)incredibly demanding, very difficult to please. You know, he works a lot.
Stuart Elliott(NY Times, columnist): He’s shown a very 2)savvy sense of being able to present an idealized image of people, and then sell it back at them.
Man 2: Calvin Klein has been in the forefront of using sexuality, and images of youth, being 3)provocative, and daring.
Bill Clinton: I just 4)came out of my shoes when I saw those teenagers depicted the way they were in those Calvin Klein ads. I thought it was wrong.
Step onto 5)7th Avenue
Calvin Klein was born to design. His roots are in the Mosholu Parkway section of the Bronx. From here a young man would rise to become one of America’s 6)pre-eminent designers, with a name and label known throughout the world.
From the age of five, he knew he wanted to design clothes. As a child he was very influenced by his mother’s love for “dressing up” and he remembers her as someone who “lived and died” for fashion.
In the early 60s, American designers as we know them today—as 7)high- profile celebrities—simply did not exist. Fashion designers were, above all, French, or maybe Italian.
The garment center in New York was ruled by rough talking and very traditional coat and suit 8)manufacturers. At the time manufacturers stole most of their designs from Paris; and Calvin, the expert sketcher, was sent to Paris to copy the latest clothes from the 9)runway.
But Calvin set out to change all that. He had ideas of his own. Back in New York he was inspired by the fresh and 10)unpreten-tious style of the young people in the streets. Pulling this 11)intangible quality out of the air and translating it into clothes would become the trademark of his success.
Barry Schwartz(CHMN & CEO of C.K.): All we did was work. We came in early in the morning; we showed the coats in the showroom; we took the orders; we processed them; we bought the fabric; we went to the factories. We did everything ourselves.
In these early work-12)obsessed years, Calvin wasn’t home much. By 1974, after ten years together, he and Jane (his first wife) divorced. The split was relatively amicable and they remain friends today. Jane got 13)custody of Marci, but Calvin and his daughter would remain very close.
Calvin was busier than ever. In 1973 he took the risky step of designing 14)sportswear for women.
Kal Ruttenstein(SR VP ofBloomingdales): I said to Barry, “Barry, you can’t let him do this. Why is he doing sportswear? He’s a coat designer.”
But Calvin saw his next great opportunity.
Man 3: American sportswear happened because it filled a need for American’s new lifestyle, for his leisure time, for his work time, and these clothes could bridge the gap.
And everyone loved Calvin’s sportswear, even at prices that ranged from $500 to $1,000. His 15)pricy but relaxed elegance won him respect within the fashion industry. It was finally happening. Calvin’s dreams had 16)catapulted him out of the Bronx and onto 7th Avenue.
Scare after 17)Publicity
Things could not have been going better. But on February 3rd, 1978, Calvin’s 18)glamorous world crashed.
Eleven-year-old Marci Klein had been 19)kidnapped. Calvin got a phone call demanding $100,000 for his daughter’s 20)whereabouts. He thought it was a 21)prank until the 22)abductors put Marci on the phone and she screamed for him.
Calvin: That was the most frightening experience that I’ve ever gone through, and I’m sure and our whole family.
At first the 23)FBI 24)interrogated Calvin, suspecting a publicity 25)stunt. Then, convinced that he was 26)innocent, they wired him for the money drop.
The kidnappers called Calvin on a pay phone, 27)disclosing Marci’s location. He ran to the building and banged on the apartment doors until he heard Marci scream his name. Calvin pushed open the door. Marci was alone and he untied her, and raced her to the street to safety.
Calvin: You don’t ever recover from something like that.
If America hadn’t known Calvin Klein’s name before, it certainly did now.
Coverage of the kidnapping and the 28)sentencing of the baby sitter plus two other abductors made headlines in all the major newspapers. Within a week after the incident, 200,000 pairs of Calvin Klein jeans flew out the stores.
And three months later Calvin Klein was on the cover of Newsweek Magazine.
Marci: I thought, “Who do they think my dad is that he is gonnacome up with this amount of money?” After it happened, when I really realized, “Oh! You know, he is famous and people know his name.”
The Calvin Klein 29)buzzwords: modern, clean, sexy, minimal, were evident everywhere from 30)couture to coffee cups. Calvin worked hard to make his products seem simple.
Stuart: I think history will judge Calvin Klein as one of the most successful 31)purveyors of consumer culture in the late 20th century.
男士甲：卡尔文·克莱恩大概是最有名气的美国设计师了。
莉斯·蒂尔伯瑞斯（《时尚芭莎》主编）：他真的对自己非常擅长的事物异常专注，那就是简约至极的设计风格。
凯利·克莱恩（前妻）：我们的关系很大程度上……你要知道，我们曾经一起工作过。他是那种非常苛求的人，很难取悦。你要知道，他工作很拼命。
斯图尔特·埃利奥特（《纽约时报》专栏作家）：他非常懂得如何向人们展示一个理想化的人物形象，然后再把这个形象卖回给那些人。
男士乙：卡尔文·克莱恩在使用性感元素和青春形象方面一直很前卫，很煽情，很大胆。
比尔·克林顿：当我看见那些青少年以那样的方式出现在卡尔文·克莱恩的广告中时，我大吃一惊。我觉得那是不对的。
走进第七大道
卡尔文·克莱恩天生就是做设计的。他在布朗克斯莫舒卢道一带长大，在这里，一个年轻人成为美国最优秀的设计师之一，他的名字和品牌举世闻名。
从五岁起他就知道自己想要设计服装。从小他就被妈妈对“打扮”的热情影响着，他记忆中的妈妈就是个铁杆时装迷。
在上世纪60年代初，美国设计师们不像我们现在所知道的那样闻名遐迩。时尚设计师们绝大多数都是来自法国，或是意大利。
掌控着纽约服装中心的曾是粗里粗气的、非常传统的服装制造商。那时候，制衣商大部分的设计都是抄袭巴黎的；当时，作为绘图师的卡尔文被派到巴黎，从天桥上复制最新的时装款式。
但是卡尔文决心改变这一切。他有自己的主张。回到纽约后，他从街上年轻人清新简朴的风格取得灵感。他把这些不可捉摸的特质从无形中剥离出来，用服装来演绎，最终成为他的成功标志。
巴里·施瓦茨(卡尔文·克莱恩品牌的董事长和首席执行官)：我们埋头工作。我们早早地来到办公室，在陈列室展示外衣，我们亲自接定单，亲自处理，亲自买布料，亲自去工厂。我们亲自做所有的工作。
在早年工作缠身的日子里，卡尔文很少在家。到1974年，大概是两人在一起10年之后，他和简（他的首任妻子）离婚了。两人和平分手，至今还是好朋友。简得到了女儿玛西的抚养权，但是卡尔文和他的女儿依然保持密切关系。
卡尔文比以前更忙了。1973年他冒险开始设计女装便服。
卡尔·鲁特斯坦 (Blooming-dales百货商场高级副经理)：我对巴里说：“巴里，你不能让他这么做。他怎么会要做便服？他可是一个外衣设计师啊。”
但是卡尔文看到了他的下一个重大的机遇。
男士丙：美国便服之所以出现是因为它填补了美国人对新生活方式的需求，休闲时可以穿，工作时可以穿，而这些服装缩小了休闲服和正装的差别。
尽管卡尔文设计的便服价格高达500美元到1000美元不等，但所有人都对之喜爱有加。价高却休闲的优雅风格，为他赢得了时尚界的尊重。最后，卡尔文终于梦想成真，从布朗克斯来到第七大道。
盛名下的惊恐
一切进展得再好不过了，但是在1978年的2月3日，卡尔文的美好世界崩塌了。
11岁的玛西·克莱恩被人绑架了。卡尔文接到了一通索要10万美元赎金以换取他女儿下落的电话。他原以为这是个恶作剧，直到诱拐者让玛西讲电话，卡尔文听到了她的呼救声。
卡尔文：那是我所遇到过的最恐怖的经历，相信我的家人也有同感。
首先联邦调查局盘问了卡尔文，怀疑这是个宣传伎俩。后来，他们确信他是清白的，便在卡尔文身上装了窃听器，让他去交赎金。
绑匪用公用电话致电卡尔文，告诉他玛西的藏身地。他跑到那幢大楼，逐家拍门，直到他听到玛西呼叫他的名字。卡尔文推开了门，里面只有玛西一人，他把她松绑后便带着她冲到街上。
卡尔文：你无法从那种事情的阴影中走出来。
如果说美国人以前并不知道卡尔文·克莱恩是谁，那么这次肯定知道了。
关于此次绑架事件，以及对临时保姆和另外两个诱拐者判决的报道，上了各大报刊的头条。出事后一周内，卡尔文·克莱恩牛仔裤大卖了20万条之多。
三个月之后，卡尔文·克莱恩上了《新闻周刊》的封面。
玛西：我想：“他们以为我爸是谁啊？他怎能拿出这么多钱？”但是这事发生后我才真正认识到，“哦，你知道吗，他是名人，人们都认识他。”
从服装设计到咖啡杯，每个细微之处都体现了卡尔文·克莱恩的口号：现代、利落、性感、精简。卡尔文致力使他的产品看起来简洁。
斯图尔特：我想历史会把卡尔文·克莱恩评定为20世纪末最成功的消费者文化传播者之一。
翻译：惠然