沪渎之滨,近海先得鱼,一年四季,尝海鲜是没有问题的。旧时上海鱼行集居十六铺小东门大街(今方浜东路),有“鱼行街”之称。上世纪50年代,在这一带交易集散地,初夏,小贩挑着两个海鲜箩筐,大黄鱼500克两角钱,杂鱼海虾500克一角钱。过去吃大黄鱼真是平常,时过境迁,一切只在记忆中。老上海人称带鱼和乌贼为“一长一短,一白一黑”。带鱼在那食品匮乏的年代要凭鱼票购买。小时候,上海人过泡饭的最佳拍档小菜是干煎咸带鱼,硬硬香香,成咸鲜鲜,油油润润,一碗泡饭过两块咸带鱼是当年最享受的生活。过了几十年才晓得,原来成带鱼吃多了伤胃的。我喜欢吃清蒸东海带鱼,一次我蒸带鱼,半个美食 Hu Du coast, offshore first fish, throughout the year, taste the seafood is no problem. Old Shanghai Fisheries Bank Shijiapu Xiaodongmen Main Street (now Fang Bang Bang Road), “Fish Street” said. 50s of last century, trading center in this area, early summer, hawkers lug two seafood baskets, 500 grams of large yellow croaker money, 500 grams of trash fish shrimp. Eat the big yellow croaker in the past is normal, the passage of time, all in memory. Old Shanghai people say octopus and squid as “a long one short, one white one black ”. The octopus was purchased with a fish ticket in those years of food deprivation. When I was a kid, Shanghai people had the best partner for savory rice dishes. Dried saury, hard and fragrant, salty fresh, oily and moist, a bowl of sauerkraut two saltwater fish was the most enjoyable life of the year. After decades of learning, it turned out that eating octopus was more harmful to the stomach. I like to eat steamed sea octopus, once I steamed fish, half a gourmet