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居住在南美巴拿马、哥伦比亚以及厄瓜多尔的吴南人（Wounaan）是鲜为外界所知的土著部落之一。这个被称作“一只脚还停留在石器时代的民族”聚集而居，极少和外界接触。他们的聚居地多为河边丛林中的空地，就算是探险者也不轻易前往，更别说是普通人了。
但是近年来，由于两方面的原因，吴南人逐渐从历史舞台的幕后走到了台前。首先，从20世纪后期开始，世界开始发现吴南是个古老且极具艺术天分的民族，他们的手工艺品开始传向世界，他们创作的灵感来自大自然，材料也完全取自大自然。吴南人的编篮被认为是全世界最好的篮子。我们常说“竹篮打水一场空”，但吴南妇女编制的篮子却细密得可以用来盛水。
然而，这个心灵手巧、与世无争的民族却也引来杀身之祸，起源就是昌盛的毒品贸易，一种名叫“古柯”的看似不起眼的小叶子。在高额利润的驱使下，哥伦比亚这个世界最大的古柯叶生产国的武装分子将毒爪伸向了吴南人的平静家园。被迫在自己的土地上种植古柯后，吴南人的世界再也无法恢复平静了。他们逃的逃，散的散，更有人变得堕落。
最近，联合国人道主义事务协调厅驻哥伦比亚办事处说，当地一些土著人处于灭绝的危险之中。居住在该国的世界上历史最悠久、人数最少的一些土著民族面临着流离失所甚至灭绝的高度危险。
历史上，吴南人从不曾屈服于强敌，但今天看来，他们似乎要向那片小叶子投降了。
The Wounaan Indians are used to newcomers. Over the past 500 years the Spanish 1)conquistadors, freed African slaves and Marxist 2)guerrillas have all tried to 3)encroach on their ancestral land. But the Wounaan, one of the oldest 4)indigenous peoples in the region, have held firm. And then came the 5)coca leaf.
Living in small villages of wooden houses on 6)stilts in riverside 7)clearings in the jungles of Chocó, the Wounaan had largely succeeded in keeping out of Colombia’s bloody conflicts. They hunted, fished and farmed along the banks of the San Juan River, left alone by the battling rebels, 8)paramilitaries and government troops.
Then, three years ago, the guerrillas came with an order at 9)gunpoint. “They said we had to grow coca or else leave,” Fernando, a Wounaan leader, said. “And so we began planting it on our lands.”
Chocó, an 10)extravagantly fertile eco-region along Colombia’s Pacific Coast, was never traditionally an area for coca cultivation. Although coca has grown wild in Colombia since 11)time immemorial, and was chewed by indigenous people as a mild 12)stimulant, like coffee, it did not naturally 13)take root in Chocó.
Under threat of death or expulsion, the Wounaan began planting coca, which the guerrillas then bought from them. The crop was 14)lucrative: a three inch cube of pressed coca would fetch them 1.8 million 15)pesos ($900). The rice they had grown before fetched only 4,000 pesos a small sack.
Not everyone liked what else the coca brought. “At the beginning there was money,” Fernando said. “But then it started to destroy the culture. Drinking and 16)prostitution, all these things begin when the money comes.”
In March last year leaders in Union-Wounaan, the largest settlement, sent word to the guerrillas that their coca-growing days were over. A day later guerrillas seized a teacher from his classroom. His 17)mutilated body was found hours later. The next day a tribal leader was seized and beaten to death.
The killings caused panic in the community. More than 1,000 of the area’s 3,500 Wounaan fled upriver to the town of Istmina, with hundreds more fleeing elsewhere into the jungle. Hundreds more wanted to leave.
The displaced tribespeople took shelter in a house by the river, 18)crammed 30 to a room. 19)Exile proved too hard for many and some climbed into boats and travelled back. Those who had opposed the guerrillas had no choice but to stay.
José Llanos, a tribal leader who has been speaking out against coca cultivation, arrived in Istmina with his family last month after receiving death threats from the paramilitaries.
Many more of Colombia’s one million indigenous people are also under such a threat. A year ago, 80 members of the hunter-gatherer Nukak tribe walked out of the jungle after months 20)on the run from armed groups who ordered them off their land to grow coca. Only 500 remain in the jungle and fears are growing for their survival. For the Wounaan, the future looks 21)bleak. In Istmina, they live in their own small community by the river, surrounded by an alien Afro-Colombian culture of hard drinking and casual sex. An air of tragedy hangs over them. All have taken Spanish names, the ones used here, to hide the Wounaan names that appeared on the guerrillas’ hit lists.
With their teachers dead, they struggle to teach their children to read and write their own language. At school they are taught in Spanish, which few Wounaan can speak.
At night, they try to perform traditional dances to preserve their culture but they find little to celebrate. They live as close to the river as they can. “The river is like our blood. Just like somebody without blood cannot live, we cannot live without the river,” said Fernando.
But their 22)ancestral lands are far away and they have no prospect of return. “The land is like our mother. To lose it is very hard.”
For the Wounaan, one thing they do know. If no one wanted the little green leaf, no one would plant it. As Colombia 23)gears up for the next chapter in the war on drugs, a dying tribe has this plea for the outside world.
“If nobody bought the drug, it wouldn’t be produced,” José Llanos says. “To those who buy it, it’s just merchandise. For us, it is disaster. They have our blood on their hands.”
吴南印第安人对外来入侵者已经习以为常了。在过去500年的时间里，他们生活的这片土地上相继来过西班牙侵略者，解放了的非洲奴隶以及马克思主义游击队，他们都曾试图占领土著印第安人代代相传的家园。但该地区最古老的一支土著部落吴南印第安人，却始终顽强抵抗着。现在，他们面临着新的挑战者——古柯叶。
在哥伦比亚乔科省的丛林里，吴南人把木结构的吊脚楼建在河边空地上，他们生活在自己的小村庄里，很大程度上成功远离了遍布哥伦比亚的血腥冲突。他们在胡安河两旁狩猎、捕鱼、耕作，丝毫不为频繁交战的叛军、准军事组织以及政府军所影响。
然而，3年前，游击队用枪口指着他们，给他们下了命令。“他们说我们得种古柯，不然就得离开这里，”一位名叫费尔南多的吴南印第安人首领说，“因此我们就开始在自己的土地上种古柯了。”
乔科省是哥伦比亚濒临太平洋海岸上的一片富饶肥沃之地，从来没有种植古柯的传统。虽然自古以来哥伦比亚就有大量的野生古柯，当地人也把古柯叶当成一种温和的提神剂来咀嚼，就像咖啡那样，但古柯一直没在乔科省广泛繁殖。
在死亡和驱逐的威胁下，吴南人开始种植古柯，供游击队收购。古柯为他们带来了丰厚的利润：一块3英寸（约8厘米）大小的立方形压缩古柯能卖180万比索（合900美金）。而之前他们种植的水稻，一小麻袋才值4000比索。
但不是每个人都喜欢随古柯而来的其他东西。“刚开始时，人们赚了很多钱，”费尔南多说，“但很快它就摧毁了整个吴南文化。人们开始酗酒，卖淫嫖娼，这一切都伴随着金钱出现了。”
去年3月，吴南人最大的聚居地“吴南联盟”的首领们给游击队捎话：他们不再种植古柯了。结果第二天，游击队就把一位正在讲课的老师抓走了。几个小时后，人们发现了他已经变形的尸体。次日，一位部落首领也被抓了去，被活活打死。
杀戮在吴南人中引起了恐慌。生活在这里的3500个吴南人中，已经有1000多人逃到了河上游的伊斯特米纳镇，另外几百人躲进了丛林里，还有几百人也想离开这里了。
逃离了家园的吴南人躲在河岸上的一间屋子里避难，三十个人挤一间房。许多人难以忍受这种流亡生活，有的人爬上船，重返故地。那些反对游击队的人则别无他法，只能留在那里。
一位名叫荷塞•拉诺斯的部落领导一直公开反对种植古柯。在收到准军事组织的死亡威胁后，他和他的家人来到了伊斯特米纳。
其实，哥伦比亚全国的一百万土著居民中还有很多人受到了同样的威胁。1年前，80名以狩猎为生的努卡克部落居民在躲避了武装组织长达几个月的威逼利诱后，离开了丛林。武装组织逼迫他们离开自己的土地，去种植古柯。仅有500名努卡克人还留在丛林里，他们的生存受到越来越大的威胁。对吴南人来说，前景是黯淡的。在伊斯特米纳，他们沿着河岸，居住在自己的小社会里，围绕着他们的是酗酒并滥交的非裔哥伦比亚人，对吴南人来说，这是一种完全陌生的文化。悲剧的空气笼罩着他们。在这里，他们全都取了西班牙名字，并隐藏已经出现在游击队打击名单上的吴南文原名，避免惹来杀身之祸。
老师们被杀害后，吴南人亲自吃力地教导他们的孩子读写本民族的语言。在学校，老师授课是用西班牙语，然而很少吴南人能讲西班牙语。
晚上，吴南人试着表演传统的舞蹈，以便保存自己的文化，但他们发现没有什么可以用来庆祝的。他们尽可能地靠近河流居住。“河流就像我们身上的血液。正如人没有了血就活不了了一样，离开了河流，我们无法生存。”费尔南多说道。
然而，他们已经远离了祖祖辈辈生活的土地，重新返回的希望也十分渺茫了。“土地就像是我们的母亲。失去土地是非常痛心的。”
对吴南人来说，有一点是他们确知的：如果没有人要这种绿色的小叶子，也就没有人会种植它。当哥伦比亚加快打击毒品战役的步伐时，濒临灭绝的吴南部落向外界发出了呼吁。
“如果没有人购买毒品，就不会有人种植它，”荷塞•拉诺斯说，“对那些购买者来说，这只是一种商品，但对我们来说，这是一种灾难。他们的手里有我们的鲜血。”
但是近年来，由于两方面的原因，吴南人逐渐从历史舞台的幕后走到了台前。首先，从20世纪后期开始，世界开始发现吴南是个古老且极具艺术天分的民族，他们的手工艺品开始传向世界，他们创作的灵感来自大自然，材料也完全取自大自然。吴南人的编篮被认为是全世界最好的篮子。我们常说“竹篮打水一场空”，但吴南妇女编制的篮子却细密得可以用来盛水。
然而，这个心灵手巧、与世无争的民族却也引来杀身之祸，起源就是昌盛的毒品贸易，一种名叫“古柯”的看似不起眼的小叶子。在高额利润的驱使下，哥伦比亚这个世界最大的古柯叶生产国的武装分子将毒爪伸向了吴南人的平静家园。被迫在自己的土地上种植古柯后，吴南人的世界再也无法恢复平静了。他们逃的逃，散的散，更有人变得堕落。
最近，联合国人道主义事务协调厅驻哥伦比亚办事处说，当地一些土著人处于灭绝的危险之中。居住在该国的世界上历史最悠久、人数最少的一些土著民族面临着流离失所甚至灭绝的高度危险。
历史上，吴南人从不曾屈服于强敌，但今天看来，他们似乎要向那片小叶子投降了。
The Wounaan Indians are used to newcomers. Over the past 500 years the Spanish 1)conquistadors, freed African slaves and Marxist 2)guerrillas have all tried to 3)encroach on their ancestral land. But the Wounaan, one of the oldest 4)indigenous peoples in the region, have held firm. And then came the 5)coca leaf.
Living in small villages of wooden houses on 6)stilts in riverside 7)clearings in the jungles of Chocó, the Wounaan had largely succeeded in keeping out of Colombia’s bloody conflicts. They hunted, fished and farmed along the banks of the San Juan River, left alone by the battling rebels, 8)paramilitaries and government troops.
Then, three years ago, the guerrillas came with an order at 9)gunpoint. “They said we had to grow coca or else leave,” Fernando, a Wounaan leader, said. “And so we began planting it on our lands.”
Chocó, an 10)extravagantly fertile eco-region along Colombia’s Pacific Coast, was never traditionally an area for coca cultivation. Although coca has grown wild in Colombia since 11)time immemorial, and was chewed by indigenous people as a mild 12)stimulant, like coffee, it did not naturally 13)take root in Chocó.
Under threat of death or expulsion, the Wounaan began planting coca, which the guerrillas then bought from them. The crop was 14)lucrative: a three inch cube of pressed coca would fetch them 1.8 million 15)pesos ($900). The rice they had grown before fetched only 4,000 pesos a small sack.
Not everyone liked what else the coca brought. “At the beginning there was money,” Fernando said. “But then it started to destroy the culture. Drinking and 16)prostitution, all these things begin when the money comes.”
In March last year leaders in Union-Wounaan, the largest settlement, sent word to the guerrillas that their coca-growing days were over. A day later guerrillas seized a teacher from his classroom. His 17)mutilated body was found hours later. The next day a tribal leader was seized and beaten to death.
The killings caused panic in the community. More than 1,000 of the area’s 3,500 Wounaan fled upriver to the town of Istmina, with hundreds more fleeing elsewhere into the jungle. Hundreds more wanted to leave.
The displaced tribespeople took shelter in a house by the river, 18)crammed 30 to a room. 19)Exile proved too hard for many and some climbed into boats and travelled back. Those who had opposed the guerrillas had no choice but to stay.
José Llanos, a tribal leader who has been speaking out against coca cultivation, arrived in Istmina with his family last month after receiving death threats from the paramilitaries.
Many more of Colombia’s one million indigenous people are also under such a threat. A year ago, 80 members of the hunter-gatherer Nukak tribe walked out of the jungle after months 20)on the run from armed groups who ordered them off their land to grow coca. Only 500 remain in the jungle and fears are growing for their survival. For the Wounaan, the future looks 21)bleak. In Istmina, they live in their own small community by the river, surrounded by an alien Afro-Colombian culture of hard drinking and casual sex. An air of tragedy hangs over them. All have taken Spanish names, the ones used here, to hide the Wounaan names that appeared on the guerrillas’ hit lists.
With their teachers dead, they struggle to teach their children to read and write their own language. At school they are taught in Spanish, which few Wounaan can speak.
At night, they try to perform traditional dances to preserve their culture but they find little to celebrate. They live as close to the river as they can. “The river is like our blood. Just like somebody without blood cannot live, we cannot live without the river,” said Fernando.
But their 22)ancestral lands are far away and they have no prospect of return. “The land is like our mother. To lose it is very hard.”
For the Wounaan, one thing they do know. If no one wanted the little green leaf, no one would plant it. As Colombia 23)gears up for the next chapter in the war on drugs, a dying tribe has this plea for the outside world.
“If nobody bought the drug, it wouldn’t be produced,” José Llanos says. “To those who buy it, it’s just merchandise. For us, it is disaster. They have our blood on their hands.”
吴南印第安人对外来入侵者已经习以为常了。在过去500年的时间里，他们生活的这片土地上相继来过西班牙侵略者，解放了的非洲奴隶以及马克思主义游击队，他们都曾试图占领土著印第安人代代相传的家园。但该地区最古老的一支土著部落吴南印第安人，却始终顽强抵抗着。现在，他们面临着新的挑战者——古柯叶。
在哥伦比亚乔科省的丛林里，吴南人把木结构的吊脚楼建在河边空地上，他们生活在自己的小村庄里，很大程度上成功远离了遍布哥伦比亚的血腥冲突。他们在胡安河两旁狩猎、捕鱼、耕作，丝毫不为频繁交战的叛军、准军事组织以及政府军所影响。
然而，3年前，游击队用枪口指着他们，给他们下了命令。“他们说我们得种古柯，不然就得离开这里，”一位名叫费尔南多的吴南印第安人首领说，“因此我们就开始在自己的土地上种古柯了。”
乔科省是哥伦比亚濒临太平洋海岸上的一片富饶肥沃之地，从来没有种植古柯的传统。虽然自古以来哥伦比亚就有大量的野生古柯，当地人也把古柯叶当成一种温和的提神剂来咀嚼，就像咖啡那样，但古柯一直没在乔科省广泛繁殖。
在死亡和驱逐的威胁下，吴南人开始种植古柯，供游击队收购。古柯为他们带来了丰厚的利润：一块3英寸（约8厘米）大小的立方形压缩古柯能卖180万比索（合900美金）。而之前他们种植的水稻，一小麻袋才值4000比索。
但不是每个人都喜欢随古柯而来的其他东西。“刚开始时，人们赚了很多钱，”费尔南多说，“但很快它就摧毁了整个吴南文化。人们开始酗酒，卖淫嫖娼，这一切都伴随着金钱出现了。”
去年3月，吴南人最大的聚居地“吴南联盟”的首领们给游击队捎话：他们不再种植古柯了。结果第二天，游击队就把一位正在讲课的老师抓走了。几个小时后，人们发现了他已经变形的尸体。次日，一位部落首领也被抓了去，被活活打死。
杀戮在吴南人中引起了恐慌。生活在这里的3500个吴南人中，已经有1000多人逃到了河上游的伊斯特米纳镇，另外几百人躲进了丛林里，还有几百人也想离开这里了。
逃离了家园的吴南人躲在河岸上的一间屋子里避难，三十个人挤一间房。许多人难以忍受这种流亡生活，有的人爬上船，重返故地。那些反对游击队的人则别无他法，只能留在那里。
一位名叫荷塞•拉诺斯的部落领导一直公开反对种植古柯。在收到准军事组织的死亡威胁后，他和他的家人来到了伊斯特米纳。
其实，哥伦比亚全国的一百万土著居民中还有很多人受到了同样的威胁。1年前，80名以狩猎为生的努卡克部落居民在躲避了武装组织长达几个月的威逼利诱后，离开了丛林。武装组织逼迫他们离开自己的土地，去种植古柯。仅有500名努卡克人还留在丛林里，他们的生存受到越来越大的威胁。对吴南人来说，前景是黯淡的。在伊斯特米纳，他们沿着河岸，居住在自己的小社会里，围绕着他们的是酗酒并滥交的非裔哥伦比亚人，对吴南人来说，这是一种完全陌生的文化。悲剧的空气笼罩着他们。在这里，他们全都取了西班牙名字，并隐藏已经出现在游击队打击名单上的吴南文原名，避免惹来杀身之祸。
老师们被杀害后，吴南人亲自吃力地教导他们的孩子读写本民族的语言。在学校，老师授课是用西班牙语，然而很少吴南人能讲西班牙语。
晚上，吴南人试着表演传统的舞蹈，以便保存自己的文化，但他们发现没有什么可以用来庆祝的。他们尽可能地靠近河流居住。“河流就像我们身上的血液。正如人没有了血就活不了了一样，离开了河流，我们无法生存。”费尔南多说道。
然而，他们已经远离了祖祖辈辈生活的土地，重新返回的希望也十分渺茫了。“土地就像是我们的母亲。失去土地是非常痛心的。”
对吴南人来说，有一点是他们确知的：如果没有人要这种绿色的小叶子，也就没有人会种植它。当哥伦比亚加快打击毒品战役的步伐时，濒临灭绝的吴南部落向外界发出了呼吁。
“如果没有人购买毒品，就不会有人种植它，”荷塞•拉诺斯说，“对那些购买者来说，这只是一种商品，但对我们来说，这是一种灾难。他们的手里有我们的鲜血。”